simmon Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 I've just taken the plunge and bought a Star AW-338 having read a variety of rave comments on the 'out of the box' performance of this rifle. Having been delighted when I opened the box, a am less than please with the performance of this rifle when test fired. To say I'd get more FPS out of a pea shooetr would be an understatement. Either I've bought a pup or there are things that can be done to beef the rifle up. Advice much appreciated. Si Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Buy a Tanaka? What kind/brand of gas were you using with it, and what BB's? Ben. Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Hi Simmon. read through the Star thread in the stickies. Seems like this is a pretty common issue with Star rifles. I've had the same with both my AW338 and my DSR-1. No matter what I did, I couldn't get them shooting with any sort of power whilst running propane. Eventually I put a CO2 rig on my DSR-1 and got the power up to 500fps (but running something mental like 140psi), but the shot to shot consistency is still pretty poop. Might just be because of the new hop (or at least so I am hoping)........ The FPS fluctuation is still quite wild. despite whipping the hop and trying to minimise all other points of air leakage. Ben..... seriously considering going back to a Tanaka M24. Link to post Share on other sites
docs90 Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Buy a Tanaka? Ben. Ben your cruel .. but we do like them Link to post Share on other sites
simmon Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Buy a Tanaka? What kind/brand of gas were you using with it, and what BB's? Ben. 134a & Abbey Predator Ultra on .2s and its flat as a fart. not looked at the obvious gas leaks though. Any tips? Link to post Share on other sites
simmon Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Abbey predator ultra and also 134a on .2s both flat as a fart. not looked at obvious gas leakage hot spots. any tips? Link to post Share on other sites
farrasdevell Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 look at the AW-338 thread. How comfortable are you messing with gas internals? Link to post Share on other sites
simmon Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 look at the AW-338 thread. How comfortable are you messing with gas internals? about as comfortable as I am finding my way around these forums. I can probably still strip clean an SLR and GPMG in the dark but taking one of these things apart is a mystery to me. In case you'd not guessed mate............I'm old! Link to post Share on other sites
farrasdevell Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 Take out the bolt, and you are looking for the grub screw next to the Oring (looks fresh in the pic), screw that out so it is flush with the outside of the bolt, now put the same allen key into the nozzle end and you are looking to find a screw running at 90deg to the one you just loosened screw this clockwise so it goes in as far as it can then re-tighten the first screw. Re-test the rifle, should be better. Also try fire a shot with the mag unsupported and measure it then fire a shot holding the mag upagainst the bolt. let us know how you get on. *all pic credit to who ever i stole it from. Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 There's your problem right there. I hate Abbey green gas. It's weak. I've especially disliked it since I tried 'ULTRA AIR POWER GAS!!!111one', which was rubbish. Their 134a Maintenance Gas is great, as is their gun oil. Unfortunately, there isn't anywhere near as much aftermarket support out for these rifles as there are for more... established brands ( ), so you're fairly limited in upgrade parts. Try this gas instead; http://www.fire-support.co.uk/store/comers...p?idProduct=341 Ben. P.S. Chef, it's made by STAR, what did you expect? Link to post Share on other sites
simmon Posted June 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 Take out the bolt, and you are looking for the grub screw next to the Oring (looks fresh in the pic), screw that out so it is flush with the outside of the bolt, now put the same allen key into the nozzle end and you are looking to find a screw running at 90deg to the one you just loosened screw this clockwise so it goes in as far as it can then re-tighten the first screw. Re-test the rifle, should be better. Also try fire a shot with the mag unsupported and measure it then fire a shot holding the mag upagainst the bolt. let us know how you get on. *all pic credit to who ever i stole it from. Well they must have changed the design - here is a picture of mine. If you compare the bolt in your picture with mine, you will see only one grub screw now - the grub screw you suggested I undo no longer exists! Not much I can do for now as I haven't got an allen key that will fit this. Nor can i see a grub screw down the nozzle (I'm assuming you are referring to the tube that would be a firing pin if this was a real one? Si Link to post Share on other sites
farrasdevell Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 That is the stock bolt you have there, with no power adjustment modification. So you need to be looking at the magazine and it's gas routing to the bolt. as i said try crono (or coke can testing) a few shots whilst pushing the mag upwards. Link to post Share on other sites
climber Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 hi. your problem is in the nozzle between the mag and the bolt. remove it and make a rubber fuel hose or a silicone hose that fits in the hole. and cut it so high that it makes a real good pressure to the bolt.. after i fixed that on my i get less than 7fps in difference on each shot.. was over 100fps in difference stock, depending on how the mag was placed.. most of my shots out of the box was round 370-380, and lot of jumpers to above 450fps.. useless to sniping with the stock outlet nozzle from the mag.. Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 S'funny Climber. I've done that mod to my DSR-1 and its still a bit poop (certainly worse than +/-7fps) and it's running double regulated CO2. My patience is incredibly thin at the moment, so I've put her on the shelf until I am in the right frame of mind to take a real good peek. I'm definitely going to look at a stronger hammer spring, I've got the hardest supplied one in at the moment, but just doesn't seem man enough for the task. (the old Briggs and Stratton better be worried!) Link to post Share on other sites
climber Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 S'funny Climber. I've done that mod to my DSR-1 and its still a bit poop (certainly worse than +/-7fps) and it's running double regulated CO2. My patience is incredibly thin at the moment, so I've put her on the shelf until I am in the right frame of mind to take a real good peek. I'm definitely going to look at a stronger hammer spring, I've got the hardest supplied one in at the moment, but just doesn't seem man enough for the task. (the old Briggs and Stratton better be worried!) understand how you feel right now.... don't know how many nights i been awake, twisting my brain to make this work. got mine to shoot less than 3fps in difference on double regulated co2, and its not +/-7fps its less then 7fps in difference on single regulated!! but with the stock hammer i did not get over 510fps. used a short bit from the spring from a aps-2 combined with the stock hammer spring to make it hit harder. no chrono yet, but the range is awsome now!!! Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 I'll keep plugging away. I really like the look of this. But ultimately I've got to be able to hit stuff with it. It is a sniper rifle after all! on the plus side, I'm really happy with the CO2 fitment. Link to post Share on other sites
simmon Posted June 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 hi. your problem is in the nozzle between the mag and the bolt. remove it and make a rubber fuel hose or a silicone hose that fits in the hole. and cut it so high that it makes a real good pressure to the bolt.. after i fixed that on my i get less than 7fps in difference on each shot.. was over 100fps in difference stock, depending on how the mag was placed.. most of my shots out of the box was round 370-380, and lot of jumpers to above 450fps.. useless to sniping with the stock outlet nozzle from the mag.. I've attached a picture of the mag as it comes out of the box with no mods. may as well make this thread more helpful for any future readers! So just to confirm, you have unscrewed the nozzle ringed in the red circle and replaced it with a rubber/silicone hose. For my benefit, I assume the nozzle unscrews and can be removed easily with a conventional screw driver without any complications or fiddling (that you may want to leave hints and tips on for future thread readers)? Link to post Share on other sites
simmon Posted June 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 S'funny Climber. I've done that mod to my DSR-1 and its still a bit poop (certainly worse than +/-7fps) and it's running double regulated CO2. My patience is incredibly thin at the moment, so I've put her on the shelf until I am in the right frame of mind to take a real good peek. I'm definitely going to look at a stronger hammer spring, I've got the hardest supplied one in at the moment, but just doesn't seem man enough for the task. (the old Briggs and Stratton better be worried!) what needs to be done to mod the rifle for double regulated CO2? Link to post Share on other sites
farrasdevell Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 check out post #228 on this page for another idea that might help you up your power. Link to post Share on other sites
climber Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 I've attached a picture of the mag as it comes out of the box with no mods. may as well make this thread more helpful for any future readers! So just to confirm, you have unscrewed the nozzle ringed in the red circle and replaced it with a rubber/silicone hose. For my benefit, I assume the nozzle unscrews and can be removed easily with a conventional screw driver without any complications or fiddling (that you may want to leave hints and tips on for future thread readers)? yes, i removed the stock nozzle from the mag, need a screwdriver to do so.. now i found a pretty soft fuel hose, same diameter as the valve.. used a pliar to screw it down, may have to push hard to make it enter. and then i use a razor blade to cut it off about two mm over the mag at the rear and 3-4mm in the front.. the bolt is now hard to push forward over the new sealing, but its not leaking anymore!!! Ohh, and adjust the metal plates infront and in the back of the mag so it want tilt forward when you close the bolt...=) other things that help is to find a harder spring for the hammer.. (no need if you not going over 500fps) Link to post Share on other sites
simmon Posted June 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 yes, i removed the stock nozzle from the mag, need a screwdriver to do so.. now i found a pretty soft fuel hose, same diameter as the valve.. used a pliar to screw it down, may have to push hard to make it enter. and then i use a razor blade to cut it off about two mm over the mag at the rear and 3-4mm in the front.. the bolt is now hard to push forward over the new sealing, but its not leaking anymore!!! Ohh, and adjust the metal plates infront and in the back of the mag so it want tilt forward when you close the bolt...=) other things that help is to find a harder spring for the hammer.. (no need if you not going over 500fps) How did you adjust the plates and what did you do? Want to post of photo in profile as it is now? Link to post Share on other sites
climber Posted June 20, 2009 Report Share Posted June 20, 2009 How did you adjust the plates and what did you do? Want to post of photo in profile as it is now? you have to remove the stock from the rifle, then there is two screws in eatch end of the magwell. just loosen them a bit and pull them closer together.. probably enough just to loosen the one in front... dont have time to take the rifle apart and take pictures now before berget, but can do a review of what i have done with pictures when i come back. Link to post Share on other sites
Hammerfall Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Thought i'd drop in to add my usual bit of information as regards these brutes. You can mess about with bolts and screws all over the shop, but it is as simple as this: nothing like that will make these things shoot at the high velocity you're so desiring - in my experience (of UK ones) The bolt in the mag does not control velocity. Fair enough, you could decrease the velocity by putting in a LONGER bolt, but you can't increase it. You can tap in CO2 or HPA, crank it up stupidly high (120+ psi) and put a higher tension spring in it (which i got from a flymo - it is pop luck) and then you'll get anything up to 800fps Still, the rifle doesn't shoot GREAT... looks lovely right enough. Link to post Share on other sites
simmon Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Thought i'd drop in to add my usual bit of information as regards these brutes. You can mess about with bolts and screws all over the shop, but it is as simple as this: nothing like that will make these things shoot at the high velocity you're so desiring - in my experience (of UK ones) The bolt in the mag does not control velocity. Fair enough, you could decrease the velocity by putting in a LONGER bolt, but you can't increase it. You can tap in CO2 or HPA, crank it up stupidly high (120+ psi) and put a higher tension spring in it (which i got from a flymo - it is pop luck) and then you'll get anything up to 800fps Still, the rifle doesn't shoot GREAT... looks lovely right enough. I hope Star read these threads cause it seams to me they are asking people to spent a lot of cash on an expensive ornament. I used to know a lad (ex Cavalry Officer) whose nickname was 'Looks Good on a Horse'. A great nickname for him - looked great but completely useless at his job. Maybe the Star AW-338 just looks good and that's it. I Hope not cause its a lot of cash to shell out on a piece of junk Link to post Share on other sites
climber Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 dont know what hammerfall is talking about!!!! takes out targets over 100meters away... with stock innerbarrel... Link to post Share on other sites
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