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Marui P226 E2 now on Redwolf


steaktipz

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The KJW P229 I have has full markings, and the finish is very nice - matte paint, no bubbles or chipping.

 

What I meant is buy the marui P226, and a KJW P229 - then gut both, and put the marui internals into the KJW body giving you better performance in a P229.

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Here's my P226 E2 purchased today from Echigoya :-

 

P226E2-1.jpg

P226E2-2.jpg

 

TradesM :-

P226E2-3.jpg

P226E2-4.jpg

 

Grip texture :-

P226E2-5.jpg

P226E2-6.jpg

 

Old mag vs new mag :-

P226E2-7.jpg

P226E2-8.jpg

P226E2-9.jpg

 

Not loaded it with BBs yet therefore no power stats yet. Kick on HFC134a is fine; as good as it gets on HFC and a plastic slide. I try propane when I got home and kicks well. I don't know if the upper slide will take it though, long term.

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Unfortunately I can't do a fair comparison to the Px4 cos the one you see in the pix is a TM 3Px4 clone with a metal slide. I don't have an orig TM Px4 to compare against my stock TM P226 E2. However I did hold the stock TM Px4 & it's heavier/heftier than the E2.

 

Good thing you mentioned about tactical rail lights. The standard TM one works fine naturally but my BeamShot is a very tight fit. I don't have any other tactical lights (X300, etc) as such can't comment on those.

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That's what I'd like to know too...I'm holding back buying the PGC MBK 'cos i don't know if my E2 will fit in (around) it. According Echigoya the regular P226 metal slide will work on this. But I want to know about the lower too.

 

P.S. I couldn't care less about the E2 print on the upper slide.

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On the Marui P226R there are total of 87 parts. Of 87 parts only 23 are different on the Marui P226E2. I'm going to skip over the obvious external differences and go deeper in the internals. I've only had it for a week so I'm still running the standard tests.

  1. The outer barrel is slightly different - there is small protrusion on the lower area, towards the hopup chamber, where it rests against the recoil spring guide. Not sure what improvement this results in.
  2. The trigger is only cosmetically different; the internal design is nearly identical to P226R.
  3. The shape of the magazine catch is different; again this appears to be only cosmetic.
  4. The left rear internal chassis has been redesigned. This is to accommodate the re-designed sear, valve knocker and hammer. This is the most significant change in the new P226E2. The valve knocker design was one of two common problems on the original and prone to failure. It appears as though this new design will improve the reliability in the valve knocker.
  5. With the redesigned hammer, the hammer strut and hammer spring housing is different.
  6. The most interesting part is the magazine - unfortunately it is still technically a two piece design. Internally it is nearly identical to the original P226R (it uses the same main + fill valve, gasket, main o-ring, lip, etc.). I can use actually use the same screw from the P226R that held the lower casing to the upper on the new magazine. Unless the internal threads in the main shell was improved, it appears as though this new magazine will be prone to the same failure as the older ones.

Again, only exactly 23 new parts on the P226E2. So far, it performs identically (power out put) to the P226R, which is good. I do have an empty PRIME P226 MBK so I can try to install it if there is interest.

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The changes are extremely minor so that MBK's designed for the Marui P226R can be used with some slight modifications.

 

I've installed countless number of MBK's for the Marui P226R and I don't recommend any of them. I actually don't recommend MBK's on automatic pistols in general. Even those that are CNC'd, there is always something different that needs to be done for the kit to work properly. For Marui pistols, I found that the stock form always performed the best.

 

Just a few more opinions if you do install an MBK: I do NOT recommend filing surfaces down or over lubricating in an attempt to smooth the action. File the surfaces only if there is a significant block (i.e. if a pin clearly doesn't fit through a hole, etc.) or specifically indicated by the manufacture (i.e. PGC/Pro-Win). Break it in thoroughly before charing it - it will naturally begin to cycle smoothly. My oldest P226 cycles just like the plastic slid/frame now using stock springs. Always function check your pistol thoroughly once the MBK is first completely installed. Only after it's broken in and cycling smoothly, you should charge it for a test fire. Use a chrono and compare it against stock baseline readings to make sure everything was put back properly - a significant drop in power indicates an error or damage.

 

If you really want one, I've found that the most recent PRIME release was the easiest to put together. It took me about an hour to fully install the E2 internals last night, but I'm still breaking it in. The PGC/Pro-Wins are not easy, but once they are properly tuned, in my opinion, they work very well.

 

 

Again, the P226E2 internals are nearly identical to the P226R. I am using a new PRIME 2011 MBK for the P226R. The slide components are a drop in fit (takes about 5 minutes to fully transfer all the internals) - the outer barrel is different, but the pistol both cycled and choron'd fine using the stock plastic P226R outer barrel. In the frame, the front and rear chassis is identical and a drop in fit. The decoking lever on the P226E2 is held onto the frame using a small plate that screws down into the frame (refer to #11 in the photo below). You don't need this plate for the pistol to function. My guess is that the plate is needed on the E2 since there are no grip screws which compresses the grips to hold the decoking lever in place.

 

The grips are a problem. As mentioned above, there are no grip screws that hold them into place onto the frame (it's held by friction). Where the grip screws would normally go, there is a pin like indentations that are inserted into holes in the frame for the grips to grab onto - these holes are not threaded. Therefore, you'll notice the pin holes on the frame are different (refer to A in the photo below). The E2 grips cannot be used on the P226R frame.

 

DSCF0071.jpg

 

The hammer strut is the problem. Some MBK's require the use of the original hammer spring housing, while others do not (the recent PRIME and PGC/Pro-win, it is built into the frame). I'm not certain if the redesigned spring housing (refer to #19 in the photo above) can be used. If you have an MBK with the housing that is built into the frame, you have to swap out the strut with one from a P226R (right in the photo below compared to the E2 strut on the left). I'm still testing it, but the P226R strust against the E2 hammer doesn't appear to cause problems. I was initially going to modify the E2 hammer strut, but found there isn't enough material to re-shape it to the P226R.

 

DSCF0069.jpg

 

If you know the MBK you select has an internal spring housing, just order a P226R hammer strut from Marui and you’re good to go (from my experience, dealing with Marui service department takes forever). If your MBK doesn't include grips, obviously you'll need a new pair and a set of grip screws.

 

In my opinion, it can be done (I'm waiting for my grip screws...knowing Marui, I'll get them in about 18 months). You can only tell it has E2 internal by examining the shape of the trigger (again, only cosmetically different and is NOT an SRT) and the magazine catch.

 

DSCF0073.jpg

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That is an excellent run down and extremely good info. It's a pity about the grips 'cos to me that is one of the main big factors I like about the E2. I would have very much liked to have had the E2 grips on the MBK but guess I'd have to wait till an E2 compatible version comes out. Also, just to make sure I understood your post, you're using the original TM plastic barrel in the MBK? You couldn't use the metal outer barrel?

 

I'm glad I waited for this before placing an order for the P226 MBK for my E2. Cheers.

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BaBaBooey,

 

Thank you for the detailed analysis and your general comments on MBK's I really appreciate them. It is a little dissapointing what you comment on the results of the MBK's on the P226.

 

I have only done three MBK's two on P226 and one on a Hi-Capa and what I have always found is that performance is much better if you keep the standard plastic outer barrel.

 

Thanks again and kind regards,

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