G&P WOC GBBR Queries?

[TB-Stalker]

LaRue rails uses a propreietary barrel nut design. Airsoft replicas (be it an Element or another ACM brand/un-branded) are AEG/Marui spec threading. Being in the UK, you may also have a difficult time locating a RS LaRue rail. If you are going to be using a G&P body, it will be a toss up. The barrel threads on the newer versions are suppose to be RS spec but have known to fit AEG/Marui barrel nuts just fine. As a good example, I have a G&P challenge kit xWOC-X that has a CA barrel nut w/a RS Troy MRF Battle rail clamped on to it. It also takes WE, WA, Inokatsu, IA, & RS barrel nuts just fine. I use the CA one as it sits much more flush so my Troy rail is continuous / monolithic w/my upper. Also, ACM clones are far from being great quality wise. I have one & wished I did not buy it. I didn't know any better at that time. Prime, Iron Airsoft, Bomber, Inokatsu, & Viper are 1:1 & are RS spec'd. Unfortunately, they are either pricey or hard to find but well worth it if you want a true scale replica. For skirmish ability, I too would stick w/G&P. Just my IMHO of course.

 

See reply at the bottom, just quoted this for continuity's sake.

 

he's already stated he'll be using an IA LaRue Reciever =]

 

That I am.

 

Yeah I read that bud...my post is in regards to using a clone LaRue rail. It won't fit. IA is prime spec & uses RS threading. I've tried sourcing just the barrel nut itself from LaRue w/no success. Now if I mis-understood the fact that he has or can secure a RS LaRue rail or parts for one, then its my bad. Carry on then...

 

Right, well firstly a RS LaRue Rail is actually worryingly easy to get a hold of here in the UK, albeit slight expensive: http://www.lannertactical.com/tactical1/LT15-12.html

 

Anyway, that is not the route I will be going down if I can avoid it, I sent a user on here a PM who has built a very similar rifle twice (one DMR and one CQBR) using Iron Airsoft and Prime Receiver and apparently the King Arms LaRue Rail drops straight on to those receivers!

 

[hitmanNo2]

You can put ACM Larue rails on Prime spec receivers no problem if you use an IA barrel nut. They need a bit of shimming to get as close to 100% straight though. I've not seen them around for ages though. Let alone the King Arms rails.

[TB-Stalker]

You can put ACM Larue rails on Prime spec receivers no problem if you use an IA barrel nut. They need a bit of shimming to get as close to 100% straight though. I've not seen them around for ages though. Let alone the King Arms rails.

 

After at least 6 hours of trawling websites last night and then finally.getting on the phone to Kings Arms they told me they have discontinued the rail but there last shipment of them when out under a different name which doesn't mention them being LaRue at all so I think I have found them!!

[TB-Stalker]

http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=GP-GBR-WOC36&search=special&rs=WOC&catid=&cat=

 

this is the one you'll need to go with a prime/iron airsoft spec receiver. This also has the steel FCG (WOC-X don't)

 

Right, just about to order this from WGC. You're 100% sure it has steel internals?

[WhiteHawksan]

mine did and I ordered that exact model from wgc =]

[TB-Stalker]

mine did and I ordered that exact model from wgc =]

 

[TB-Stalker]

mine did and I ordered that exact model from wgc =]

 

Just went to order it and sadly it's now out of stock on WGC. So I ordered from here: http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/other-gun/gas-blow-black-rifle/g-p/gandp-woc-m16vn-gbb-rifle.html

 

Looks like steel internals!

[Phubar]

http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=GP-GBR-WOC36&search=special&rs=WOC&catid=&cat=

 

A friend of mine recently bought one of the above rifles, and safe to say that if it were a member of the opposite sex, he'd marry it. Comes with steel internals and very robust construction.

[TB-Stalker]

What do you guys think of the 5KU Hop Up conversion so you can use AEG barrels for the WA? I was thinking of getting one and using it with a Madbull or Prometheus 6.03?

[rvlyssup]

What do you guys think of the 5KU Hop Up conversion so you can use AEG barrels for the WA? I was thinking of getting one and using it with a Madbull or Prometheus 6.03?

Its a clone of the Prime unit. A lot of peeps use it and works really well w/o breaking the bank. If it wasn't so much out of stock, I'd pick a few up.

[TB-Stalker]

Hi there,

 

I am coming to the end of my build (WOC based DMR) and have added a 6.03 inner barrel and new rubber which has taken my FPS to 490 so I am looking to add an NPAS.

 

At the moment I am using an Iron Airsoft receiver, G&P Hop unit, RA-Tech rubber and barrel, RA-Tech enhanced recoil buffer and spring.

 

I am looking to get a high recoil bolt, not too worried about gas efficiency as I am only using 10 rounds a mag. I was thinking about getting an Inokatsu super bolt but I don't know what NPAS to use with this.

 

Also I am having problems with my bolt catch, it's brand new and was working perfectly until I added the new barrel and rubber, now it doesn't always lock back when the mag is empty, is this due to the higher fps or do I need to do something?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[vilerk]

This is the INO 2011 nozzle with an NPAS preinstalled: http://airsofttaiwan.com/goods.php?id=554.

[hwagan]

 

Also I am having problems with my bolt catch, it's brand new and was working perfectly until I added the new barrel and rubber, now it doesn't always lock back when the mag is empty, is this due to the higher fps or do I need to do something?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Have you tried with the stock recoil spring setup? That sounds a likely culprit; It may be that the stiffer RA-Tech spring is giving the bolt catch less of a chance to do it's thing before the bolt goes back into battery.

 

To confirm that is the issue, try it with the stock recoil parts and see if that improves the situation. Assuming it does turn out to be that issue, a small piece of thin plastic card superglued to the underside of the bolt catch (the bit the lever in the magazine pushes up on when empty) will give it a more positive engagement and should hopefully solve the issue.

[TB-Stalker]

Have you tried with the stock recoil spring setup? That sounds a likely culprit; It may be that the stiffer RA-Tech spring is giving the bolt catch less of a chance to do it's thing before the bolt goes back into battery.

 

To confirm that is the issue, try it with the stock recoil parts and see if that improves the situation. Assuming it does turn out to be that issue, a small piece of thin plastic card superglued to the underside of the bolt catch (the bit the lever in the magazine pushes up on when empty) will give it a more positive engagement and should hopefully solve the issue.

 

I tried swapping out the recoil spring/buffer for the stock one, tried a different hop rubber and a different bolt catch and still nothing :/

[hwagan]

I tried swapping out the recoil spring/buffer for the stock one, tried a different hop rubber and a different bolt catch and still nothing :/

 

How many of the rubber buffering discs have you got in the back of the buffer tube? I've only got the thinnest one in mine, and it locks back reliably every time... If you've got one of the thicker ones or more than one in there it could be reducing the amount of time the bolt catch has to lock the bolt?

[TB-Stalker]

How many of the rubber buffering discs have you got in the back of the buffer tube? I've only got the thinnest one in mine, and it locks back reliably every time... If you've got one of the thicker ones or more than one in there it could be reducing the amount of time the bolt catch has to lock the bolt?

 

I was using two and I have now tried using it with every number of them from none to 8 and still no luck

[gijohn2]

Hold the gun on its side with the bolt release facing the floor and see if it locks back

[TB-Stalker]

Hold the gun on its side with the bolt release facing the floor and see if it locks back

 

Nope

 

Could someone upload a picture/link me to a guide for installing the full auto sear as when I moved my internals from one receiver to another it resulted in my rifle only firing in semi auto.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I will add pictures of mine tonight if someone could point out what is wrong.

 

Thanks.

[BaBaBooey]

Also I am having problems with my bolt catch, it's brand new and was working perfectly until I added the new barrel and rubber, now it doesn't always lock back when the mag is empty, is this due to the higher fps or do I need to do something?

 

Just to make it clear, it "sometimes" works or fails to catch every time? As mentioned above, I think it might be some sort of obstruction that's preventing the bolt carrier from traveling all the way back. It's also possible that the piston o-ring is worn out causing a pressure loss. As a result, the bolt carrier is moving back far enough to chamber the next BB, but not far enough so the edge travels over the bolt stop.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated, I will add pictures of mine tonight if someone could point out what is wrong.

 

Photos of what you have now would help here. On my lower receiver, I can install the auto sear first and then drop in the remaining parts - it makes it a bit easier. Did you function check it on full auto? With the trigger pulled, pull the charging handle out and back in...as soon as the bolt carrier travels back to battery, you should hear the hammer drop.

[TB-Stalker]

Just to make it clear, it "sometimes" works or fails to catch every time? As mentioned above, I think it might be some sort of obstruction that's preventing the bolt carrier from traveling all the way back. It's also possible that the piston o-ring is worn out causing a pressure loss. As a result, the bolt carrier is moving back far enough to chamber the next BB, but not far enough so the edge travels over the bolt stop.

 

It doesn't catch at all. I don't think it's a worn out o ring as it hasn't fired even 20 rounds yet.

 

 

Photos of what you have now would help here. On my lower receiver, I can install the auto sear first and then drop in the remaining parts - it makes it a bit easier. Did you function check it on full auto? With the trigger pulled, pull the charging handle out and back in...as soon as the bolt carrier travels back to battery, you should hear the hammer drop.

 

Pictures as promised:

 

 

 

 

[hitmanNo2]

The bit that's sticking up needs to be pushed down to the left and then back to parallel so it's pushing against the front of the hammer lock actually in a downward position.

 

Check the pic 10 or so down.

 

http://www.tnairsoft.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=39&t=24458

[TB-Stalker]

Cheers! I've got it pointing down now, how to you get it to point backwards?

[hitmanNo2]

Backwards? I just meant push it back to the right if it bent at all when you were maneuvering it. As long as it's pointing down it should be pushing forwards against the inside face.

[BaBaBooey]

It doesn't catch at all. I don't think it's a worn out o ring as it hasn't fired even 20 rounds yet.

 

With the upper removed, insert an empty magazine in the lower. Can you see if the bolt stop lever attached to the magazine is lifting the bolt catch up? It should.

 

 

The auto sear spring is upside down. When you first start, have the spring arranged so the longer arm is pointing up and the short one pointing down, as in the photo below:

 

 

It's much easier to install it with only the inner chassis bolted into the lower, nothing else (no selector, hammer, trigger, etc.). Pull the long arm down as far as it could go and then install it into the lower. The long arm should catch against the channel on the selector side of the inner chassis. When you push the auto sear forward, it should spring back.

[TB-Stalker]

 

With the upper removed, insert an empty magazine in the lower. Can you see if the bolt stop lever attached to the magazine is lifting the bolt catch up? It should.

 

The auto sear spring is upside down. When you first start, have the spring arranged so the longer arm is pointing up and the short one pointing down, as in the photo below:

 

*snip*

 

It's much easier to install it with only the inner chassis bolted into the lower, nothing else (no selector, hammer, trigger, etc.). Pull the long arm down as far as it could go and then install it into the lower. The long arm should catch against the channel on the selector side of the inner chassis. When you push the auto sear forward, it should spring back.

 

I will have a look at the mag and make sure it is pushing it up.

 

I have installed the sear as you guys suggested and it does spring up now, but not always all the way as it can be stuff, but I will try removing one of the washers from it because its still not firing in auto.

 

Stalker.