Marui P226 blowback engine strip

[amateurstuntman]

Hello folks, this one is a request.

There may be other P226 guides out there but I am not interested in them because they don't have my trusty knackeredoldrunoutorangefelttip.

 

I should explain that the P226 used in this guide is upgraded.

It has a guarder metal frame and slide (with the paint buffed off), an SD loading nozzle assembly and a PDI piston head.

 

However, the principal is the same.

 

And I took some pics of the original parts anyway.

 

First buy a P226. It won't look like this unless you buy mine:

 

Remove the slide:

 

Hold the spring guide all the way forward:

 

And take the barrel assembly out:

 

You can now remove the spring guide.

Actually on standard guns you can just remove it first but if you have some brands of aftermarket recoil spring guide or a threaded barrel you have to do it this way.

 

Look in the slide, at the back for these screws, there are two of them.

 

Whoop! go knackeredoldrunoutorangefelttip go!

 

undo these screws.

 

Stop! don't pull out the blowback engine yet. When you do, spring P226-11 will fire pin P226-10 across the room. Get ready to catch it.

 

Here's the little bugger:

 

Pull the blowback engine out (catching 10 and 11) and your slide will be empty.

(except for the front sight which is held on with this little spring clip)

 

Yours might be a bent piece of metal.

 

The loading nozzle just pulls out, here is a picture of the loading nozzle and the spring and pin in the position they live in in the gun.

The knackeredoldrunoutorangefelttip is pointing to the lug on the loading nozzle that the spring rests against:

 

Here is the tiny screw that holds the valve blocker and thus the rocket valve in place:

[amateurstuntman]

Now look into the blowback engine and find your piston head.

This is mine and as I said it is a PDI one meaning the screw is accessible from the front of it:

 

If you still have the Marui piston head or have a Guarder enhanced piston head it will be a press fitting onto the screw, prise the piston head off the engine then undo the screw.

Here is a comparison shot, Marui on the left:

 

 

Turn your blowback engine upside-down and look into the bottom of it. You will see this screw:

This is screw P226-9

Undo it, it holds in piece P226-8 that should now just fall out.

When replacing #8 there is a handy arrow on it to show which direction it goes in:

When the blowback engine is upside-down and you are looking into it the arrow faces you and points to the rear of the blowback engine.

 

 

If you were to undo the tiny screw on top of the loading nozzle you could pull the rocket valve, rocket valve spring and valve blocker out.

They would look like this:

 

They go back in the same way, spring then valve then blocker.

With the blocker the way round it is in the pics

 

Poke them back in (I use a knackeredoldrunoutorangefelttip.)until the screw holes line up and replace the tiny screw.

 

Replace #8 then #9.

 

Replace whichever type of piston head you are using.

 

Put the loading nozzle back in place.

 

Put in spring #11.

 

Put the blowback engine in place but not all the way.

 

Put pin #10 here:

 

Then poke it with a screwdriver so it is here:

 

Then replace the blowback engine, withdrawing the screwdriver when there is no room for the pin #10 to escape.

 

If you look you should be able to see it in the correct position here:

 

Replace the screws that hold the blowback engine to the rear sight.

 

Replace the barrel and recoil spring/recoil spring guide.

 

Stick the slide back on and now you are ready to buss a cap in a foo's *albatross* if he disrespects the knackeredoldrunoutorangefelttip.

 

Good luck, Stunt.

[Lance Jackass]

Thank you so much mate.

 

I've been putting the spring and rod back in, behind the little seating catch on the piston. Now i realise that it goes infront and feel a tad daft.... although it's not that clear in the manual

 

Does your piston sometimes stay forwards at the end of a mag though?

[greebo_Brat]

Thank you so much mate.

 

I've been putting the spring and rod back in, behind the little seating catch on the piston. Now i realise that it goes infront and feel a tad daft.... although it's not that clear in the manual

 

Does your piston sometimes stay forwards at the end of a mag though?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Mine starting doing that after changing the piston to a guarder one.

[pokethepope]

If by piston you mean the loading nozzle bit, mine did that as well, the little spring was kinked so the piston would come all the way forward without returning, and sometimes get caught on the lip of the piston lid.

 

amateurstuntman, how do you find the SD nozzle? im going to be ordering some parts for one of my P226's soon and there are three to choose from, SD being middle priced. Im guessing there is not much difference between them, although the SD comes with the valve blocker and and another internal part.

[hkssr20det]

amateurstuntman, how do you find the SD nozzle? im going to be ordering some parts for one of my P226's soon and there are three to choose from, SD being middle priced. Im guessing there is not much difference between them, although the SD comes with the valve blocker and and another internal part.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I have the same setup in mine and the SD kit fits great. The PDI piston is also pretty perfect, but I am going to change to a Dyna and see how that one works. In my Hi Capa/M1911 the PDI piston fits and seals a bit better.

[amateurstuntman]

I prefer the Guarder enhanced nozzle to the SD one TBH, if you really need the valve blocker there is one made by hidyaka and leonardinjapan@hotmail.com can get you one.

The PDI piston head is good but comes with only one o ring. The dyna one comes with two o rings of different sizes to help with fitting and a new rocket valve spring that is a little too strong and causes your gas to vent.

 

No worries LJ, is your slide metal?

Mine did the sticking thing when I changed them, the nozzle was getting caught on some material behind the ejection port.

I filed it off and all was well.

Don't worry about it too much it doesn't effect the operation of the gun.

 

Stunt

[hkssr20det]

Out of curiosity, why do you like the Guarder better? The one I have seen fit, didn't. Just wondering. The spring with the Dyna Piston works well with the RCC powerbulb (I assume because of the weight of the brass part), stock it doesn't work at all.

[amateurstuntman]

You are right about the powerbulb.

I am in the UK so I didn't mention that since the thing can make guns a bit hot.

The guarder seems to slide better over the pistonhead and the hole in the bottom for the gas is bigger.

I fit mine at the same time as my prime slide so I had to do some filing anyway.

It might not fit in a stock gun. I didn't check.

 

If you want the most power though I have found that the SD nozzle, the dyna piston head with the smaller o ring and rocket spring and the rcc powerbulb with a firefly hop will give really high power on green.

I tried different hammer springs with little change in power.

They just made the action stiffer.

 

Stunt

[greebo_Brat]

You are right about the powerbulb.

I am in the UK so I didn't mention that since the thing can make guns a bit hot.

The guarder seems to slide better over the pistonhead and the hole in the bottom for the gas is bigger.

I fit mine at the same time as my prime slide so I had to do some filing anyway.

It might not fit in a stock gun.  I didn't check.

 

If you want the most power though I have found that the SD nozzle, the dyna piston head with the smaller o ring and rocket spring and the rcc powerbulb with a firefly hop will give really high power on green.

I tried different hammer springs with little change in power.

They just made the action stiffer.

 

Stunt

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

A guarder fits fine in a stock TM P226, well other than sticking when the slide is locked back.

[hkssr20det]

If you want the most power though I have found that the SD nozzle, the dyna piston head with the smaller o ring and rocket spring and the rcc powerbulb with a firefly hop will give really high power on green.

Stunt

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I really like the Nine Ball Air Seal, haven't tried the firefly unit yet. Also the SD Valve Knocker really helped my gun shoot better/harder. If you want slightly upgraded springs the RCC 130% set work well, no problems with cycling at all (but I do have a FireFly recoil guide rod).

[amateurstuntman]

I've got the rcc springs and the guarder springs and a nineball hammer spring so I have a 70% a 130% and a 150% of each and another hammer spring.

I use the 130% recoil spring but it doesn't seem to make any difference which of the hammer springs I use.

 

meh

 

Stunt

[Lance Jackass]

No worries LJ, is your slide metal?

Mine did the sticking thing when I changed them, the nozzle was getting caught on some material behind the ejection port.

I filed it off and all was well.

Don't worry about it too much it doesn't effect the operation of the gun.

 

Nope my slide is stock TM plastic. Its no biggy, just a tad annoying.

 

Right, next on the list. I'm looking at doing a couple of upgrades, for accuracy and reliability. Hoping to be using the gun on propane as well, at around 300-330 fps, with a metal kit just for looks.

 

Would a guarder valve blocker and feeding nozzle, with a PDI pistonhead, tightbore inner barrel (not decided on brand yet) and a firefly hop bucking give me that kind of thing? I've also heard somewhere that you can cut a groove into the inner barrel on a lathe and fit an O-ring, to stabilise it more in the outer barrel. Worth looking into?

 

And lastly, the thorny issue of metal kits. I'll give the prime a miss, as it doesnt have the safety lever detente - which would mean more work for me. The PGC is out of my price range; the creation one also. So that leaves G&P, Guarder and Action. Any ideas on which there would be best please stunt? Or if i should save up...

 

Many thanks

 

LJ

[pokethepope]

I can help you a bit with the metal kit conundrum:

 

I have experiance of the Guarder and Action, so i won't pass comment on the G&P (although from retailer photos it looks like a very shiny finnish).

 

My Guarder kit has a very nice, matt finnish. I didn't fit it, so can't pass comment on that, but there is some grinding to do (product page on WGC links to this).

 

The Action kit had several mis-casts, for example the cosmetic screw above the trigger guard. Far East encountered this as well, there is a picture in this thread.. The finnish on the action is also very shiny and glossy, which doesn't really suit the P226 IMO.

 

So out of Action and Guarder, i'd definately go Guarder every time. It works out more expensive because you have to buy the barrel seperately, but its a very nice kit for the money IMO, so if you can only afford a kit for sub-$120 from an HK retailer, i'd say go for the Guarder.

[amateurstuntman]

Me too. I'd say guarder of the three.

But you have to file away a lot of material from the sides of the blowback engine to make it fit in the slide.

you don't need to cut the barrel or anything, just put a bit of tape around the inner barrel and check it periodically.

The gun in these pics is the guarder one, the frame and slide went together without too much work the filing was needed on the mag catch hole and blowback engine and a little groove in the takedown lever.

 

 

Stunt

[Stealthbomber]

Did you polish the slide by getting a rottweiller to chew all the paint off?

 

[amateurstuntman]

I didn't polish the slide.

I buffed the paint off with a steel wire brush to see how long it would take the ally to oxidize.

Two weeks in the cold basement did it.

I'll touch it up and re paint it when I can be bothered.

 

Stunt

[Zombie666]

I didn't polish the slide.

I buffed the paint off with a steel wire brush to see how long it would take the ally to oxidize.

Two weeks in the cold basement did it.

I'll touch it up and re paint it when I can be bothered.

 

Stunt

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hey Stuntman, this looks like a great thread, I've just got myself a whole upgrade "kit" for my T.M P-226 and, bearing in mind I've never taken it apart, I was more than a little daunted by what looked like a major job. I was going to ask one of the guys I skirmish with about getting the work done but I may just follow this and see if I can do it myself. The parts I have are: Guarder P-226 Metal Frame, Guarder P-226 Steel Outer Barrel, Guarder P-226 Enhanced Loading Muzzle, Guarder Recoil / Hammer Spring set (150%), Nine Ball 6.03 inner Barrel and a K.M P-226 Stainless High Flow Valve. If you have any advice/pictures that may help me to not make total pigs ear of it, I'd really appreciate it, especially with regards to the work I may need to do on the metal frame and blow-back engine. The thing I found most off putting when I recieved all these parts is that there were no instructions of any kind which I guess is fair enough as they are all supplied separately.

[bigc3031]

what online stores are you getting all these parts from, I have not seen half of the parts you are all talking about????

 

So far I have the:

guarder metal body kit

guarder outer barrel

guarder spring guide

guarder 150% spring set

nineball piston head

nineball 6.04 inner barrel

[Sale]

The spring with the Dyna Piston works well with the RCC powerbulb (I assume because of the weight of the brass part), stock it doesn't work at all.

The spring of the Dyna piston head works quite well as long as you take the time to sand the front of the floating valve a bit. Otherwise the spring is too tight and will prevent the valve from closing at all.

 

-Sale

[hkssr20det]

what online stores are you getting all these parts from, I have not seen half of the parts you are all talking about????

 

So far I have the:

guarder metal body kit

guarder outer barrel

guarder spring guide

guarder 150% spring set

nineball piston head

nineball 6.04 inner barrel

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Actually AEX carries almost all of those parts. I would get different ones myself, but...

[amateurstuntman]

Hey Stuntman, this looks like a great thread, I've just got myself a whole upgrade "kit" for my T.M P-226 and, bearing in mind I've never taken it apart, I was more than a little daunted by what looked like a major job.

 

*snip*

 

If you have any advice/pictures that may help me to not make total pigs ear of it, I'd really appreciate it, especially with regards to the work I may need to do on the metal frame and blow-back engine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I'll do a set of pictures of the frame parts on my next day off and I'll take a comparative photo of the blowback engine before and after you file it down to fit the guarder slide.

 

 

The spring of the Dyna piston head works quite well as long as you take the time to sand the front of the floating valve a bit. Otherwise the spring is too tight and will prevent the valve from closing at all.

 

-Sale

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Thank you Sale, I'll look into that. I wasn't too interested after I saw the power I was getting on green with the powerbulb and dyna spring.

Too much for UK.

 

 

Stunt

[Zombie666]

I'll do a set of pictures of the frame parts on my next day off and I'll take a comparative photo of the blowback engine before and after you file it down to fit the guarder slide.

Thank you Sale, I'll look into that.  I wasn't too interested after I saw the power I was getting on green with the powerbulb and dyna spring.

Too much for UK.

Stunt

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thanks Stuntman, I'm looking forward to seeing the pics and trying this out.

[Zombie666]

what online stores are you getting all these parts from, I have not seen half of the parts you are all talking about????

 

So far I have the:

guarder metal body kit

guarder outer barrel

guarder spring guide

guarder 150% spring set

nineball piston head

nineball 6.04 inner barrel

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not sure if you're asking me or not but just in case, I got all my P-226 upgrade parts from Airsoftglobal in H.K. If you've never used them, give them a go, very efficient and helpful.

[PenGun]

I wasn't too interested after I saw the power I was getting on green with the powerbulb and dyna spring.

Too much for UK.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Uh-oh. I've just ordered the powerbulb and Dyna piston head with the SD replacement loading muzzle etc.

Though I have stayed with the stock magazine valves to keep reasonable gas efficiency on Green

What sort of power levels are we talking about on Green with this set-up?

35Xfps? 4X0fps? I don't have a chrony so I can't measure it accurately!

 

I might have to find another use for the parts now