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whats the difference between all the m14 ebrs?


masakarijoe

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well, ive searched all over, and come up with nothing. i am looking to buy a mk14 EBR, as ive always wanted one, but i dont know which is which, what the differences are, and where is the best place. please, any and all info would help. currently, echo1 sounds like the best choice, as they are cheap, and ive heard only good things about eho1. but what about the kart? agm? vfc?

please, any info like build material, trademarks, weight, durability, compatability, quality, etc would help, as well as a location to buy them and a price. right now im looking for something cheaper, unlike the conversion kit from g&p... thats out of the question. i already have spent $1000 on my star m14 sopmod, i want this one to be on the cheaper side ;)

thanks!

Semper Fi

-Joe

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Regarding EBRs, there are 2 kinds; the normal one and the "shorty".

 

The normal one has 4 oblong holes in front of the foregrip and usually uses a normal M14 barrel.

The shorty has 3 holes in the foregrip and uses a different outer barrel, 4-prong flash-hider and has a shortened inner barrel too.

 

I think the chinese EBR is a copy of the G&P mod 0 "Shorty" EBR.

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Airsoft EBR:s are in two modes right now. Body kit and complete AEG.

 

Only one complete EBR aeg is sold, and that's the KART.

 

There are few EBR kits by King Arms, G&P and I think few others. All these stocks cost more than a TM M14 on itself, are produced in limited numbers and require you to get an M14 to put in them.

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I know you said you didn't want a G&P but they're only $750 from ehobby and its all assembled for you.

 

It's pretty good quality with no rattles or looseness anywhere yet.

 

One thing to bear in mind though is on the G&P the bottom rail doesn't continue undernieth the handguard so you can't play with out the hand guard. Some companies must do a full RAS, i'm sure i've seen one in the M14 picture thread.

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$750 is way over my limit now... im looking at the echo 1 which is like $220

but the kart and echo1 are the same rifle? i noticed that the kart has that small rear rail (above the reciever) and the scho 1 doesnt. what else is different?

could i buy the echo1 and later get a tm m14, and put the ebr on that? i just want to have the trademarks :)

whats bad about the echo1 ebr? good?

also i am looking for a shorter ebr, not too fond of the full length ones

thanks

-Joe

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The difference between the TGS (mine), the G&P, King Arms kits and the Kart/ECHO1 clones are in the material.

 

The former are billet and solid as bricks, nigh indestructible. The latter are potmetal, and while still strong, will snap on heavy impacts. It all depends on how rough you play.

 

On your stated budget I'd get the Kart.

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im just looking for a cheap m14 style ris weapon... you see, ive spent so much on my star m14 sopmod (first buying the damn thing for $$$$$$$$ and then after she exploded inside, shelling out just as much to repair her!)

so basically, im looking for something cheaper... in case she breaks again, or this current nightmare of repair doesnt work... anyone know where to get star m14 parts? whens the new version gonna be released?

:)

-Joe

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Ok guys, as promised here is a quick after action report on the Echo 1 EBR. I had the chance to field it on Saturday for 4 or 5 hours and think I've got a decent handle on it's pros and cons.

 

First things first:

 

As with many of the chinese clone guns out there, it needs a bit of set up out of the box before fielding.

 

On this gun the largest out of the box problem was with general fitment of all the parts... basically, many of the bolt on components were not full tightened down. This caused lots of unsightly rattles, and the adjustable cheek rest was almost non functional (it would only lock in the fully down or fully up position). More importantly, the whole front barrel assembly and hop-up unit were slightly out of alignment. This caused major feeding problems, but after a unbolting the top assembly of the front end, it was an easy fix :D There is a set screw which holds the outer barrel back agains the tension of the bolt spring. While pushing rearward on the outer barrel (if you look from under the gun into the mag well, you can actually see the feed chute line up properly) tighten this set screw... one done, this will lock things into proper alignment and solve the issue. After this adjustment, all of my M14 mags fed and worked without a hitch (TM Standards, TM High caps, King Arms 100 rds, and Echo 1 High caps). The only lingering issue I can find is that the sliding stock assembly is still a tiny bit loose. Currently I have no solution for this issue (Maybe ask Ledpocket to mill new stock rails which are of slightly larger diameter?), and as it's minor, I have no plans to fix it.

 

Now, on to the meat of things... On field performance:

 

Airsoft GI included a chrono reading of 300 fps with the gun when it arrived. Based on my observations while dialing in the hop up, and on field range, I'm inclined to agree with this reading. That said, in stock form I seemed to be able to get fairly consistent shots at approx. 120 feet on a torso sized object. ROF was also average... maybe in the 10 rd / sec range while using the included custom 9.6 large battery (it is basically a 9.6 large split lengthwise, like a nunchuck, using sub C cells... interestingly, my Super Brain charger does not like this battery at all... when I tried to charge it pre-game, I kept getting the old error message and was forced to use the included wall wort trickle charger... any insight guys? ).

 

The hop up adjustment seemed a bit stiff for my liking (unlike the easy adjustment on my TM M14, this unit required significantly more force... on the TM I can reach around the magazine and adjust it while shouldering the gun... not so on the Echo 1. To make my adjustments I had to remove the magazine, and flip the gun over... kind of a pain).

 

On the field, I was able to consistently engage targets at my normal 100 - 120 ft. range with some consistency. I tend to use 3-4 round bursts instead of single shot or sustained fire, so the battery and motor combination were more than up to the task (I did notice a small disconcerting peculiarity, however... the motor ends up right next to my nose when I have a good cheek weld, so I kept getting that warning whiff of ozone you normally get when pushing a gun a bit too hard. This was a false alarm, and easily overlooked once I realized what was going on...).

 

I only encountered one misfeed all day, which was caused by user error (I didn't have the magazine properly seated). Trigger response was crisp for an AEG (on par or a bit better than stock TM).

 

At 13.5 lbs fully loaded however, my arms were a bit tired by the end of the day. I may look into mounting a rail on the bottom of the klydex foregrip as a vertical grip may help make the weight a bit more manageable. For obvious reasons, this gun is very front heavy and that may help with balance.

 

The included 3 point sling, while a bit sub standard when compared to what's available through most after market companies, was up to the task as served well all day. It was also a must given the nature of our AO (lots of ravines, creeks and hills).

 

Most of the people I play with field upgraded guns (our league limit is 350 fps with .25s) and at no point did I feel outgunned during the day.

 

Overall I came away impressed with the gun and pleased with my $220.00 investment. I plan on keeping things stock for a bit, but the two most glaring modifications which it could use are:

 

1. Tightbore barrel

2. A replacement hop up assembly

 

I would recommend this piece.

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Just wanted to point out that if you're switching your innerbarrel to an aftermarket one, you need to change outerbarrels as well. My KM 6.04mm tightbore didn't fit in the standard KART EBR outerbarrel, so I used my spare TM M14 SOCOM outerbarrel, which I had lying around. The outerbarrel was installed without any problems and so was the KM innerbarrel, once I had the TM barrel on.

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