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New type L96 hopup unit


Pendra

  

20 members have voted

  1. 1. What do you think?

    • I'm an L96 user, and I'd buy one!
      16
    • I'm an L96 user, and I don't need a better hopup unit.
      0
    • I don't care :)
      4


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Few days ago I had a idea about a new type of L96 hopup unit. Something like a cross between the PDI L96 hopup unit and the G36 hopup unit. It would use AEG hopup rubber and AEG barrel. You would be able to set the hop with a long, thin X head screwdriver. I'm planning a softer H type profile so it would not slice through the rubber after some time.

The unit itself will be a single piece of aluminium with additional small metal parts.

I will make one for myself. With the use of a Prometheus barrel and a top quality AEG hopup rubber, I plan to match the ultra accuracy of the VSR.

I estimate that the cost of one unit would match the cost of the PDI unit (~60-70$), so I though, maybe I should make more than one. I may even sell a few, after the underwhelming performance of the PDI unit and the fact that it is sold out just about everywhere. What do you think, is there a demand for such upgrade part? Should I bother to make it mass production friendly?

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TBH, I think the critical thing for an L96 hop-up would be that it must be reliable and it must be fairly simple to set up and use.

 

If you know what you're doing with the original L96 hop-up you can get good performance out of it. The people who want to replace it are (aside from people who've got broken parts) people who don't have the time or skill to set up the original one. As such, any replacement would need to be plug-and-play and it'd need to be fairly forgiving so that small adjustments wouldn't mess it up.

 

FWIW, I'm not sure the standard C-clip that secures an AEG barrel could secure an L96 barrel well enough. The original method, with a gland nut, is very secure but, as I say, you need to ensire the barrel is totally aligned before tightening the nut.

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I serviced and upgraded like 6-7 L96s so far. There are plenty of things I don't like in the stock hopup:

- No replacement hopup rubber. I tend to upgrade mine to 600 FPS which wears out the stock rubber quickly.

- I'm not exactly happy with the quality of the rubber either. I usually have AEG accuracy and range. It isn't all that bad but nowhere near to the VSR accuracy and range.

- I had one broken plastic lever. No easy way to repair or replace it.

- Shredded plastic O ring thingy. The part that prohibits the rotation of the inner barrel. Again no way to repair.

- No viable replacement barrel option. We machined a Prometheus barrel to fit into the unit, but not everyone has a shop laying around.

- I had a general and persistent problem with the PDI unit. I was unable to set it correctly. The movement of the levers were soo tiny, the effect was superficial.

 

Now the AEGs have cheap, accessable, top quality rubbers for very high powered guns. Then there is a big selection of upgrade inner barrels.

The barrel will be locked by screws, just like in case of the PDI unit. However they used very small screws with pointy end. I will use bigger, flat ended screws that will push against the flat cut on the sides of the barrel. The plug and play capability is standard feature :).

My main consern is the setting. It is so much easier to cut a hole to the outer barrel so you could turn the dial without any extra tool.

 

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Now we finished it: Herea are the parts:

post-6040-1198897179_thumb.jpg

And here is how you set it:

post-6040-1198897192_thumb.jpg

 

post-6040-1198897203_thumb.jpg

 

post-6040-1198897213_thumb.jpg

 

There is a small cut over the hopup chamber. You put the small black plastic piece there. As you rotate the dial, the small metal rod pushes moves. It has a slope cut into it. So the more you turn the dial, the thicker the metal part gets which pushes the plastic piece further into the chamber.

The carved lines on the surface of the dial were meant to make the rotating easier. As the spring is stiff I have a little problem setting the hop as smoothly as I want, when the unit is inside the gun. I will drill a series of small holes so you can positively stick your screwdriver into them and rotate the dial more easily.

It does not dial off because of the great amount of frictional force. Actually the harder I push the metal bar the stronger the friction gets so the dial keeps "locked" in its set position.

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