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Best Upgraded Pistol


Crimson

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I have had a lot of problems upgrading various pistols, what i am asking for is what is the best pistol that:

 

1 Pushes more than 350 fps on a shot (all my wa magna can non upgraded)

2 Can have a metal slide and still has enough gas left to lock the slide when empty (all my upgraded TM pistols have this problem)

3. does not jam

 

I have found Wa Mangas the best

 

Thanks in advanced

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I have had a lot of problems upgrading various pistols, what i am asking for is what is the best pistol that:

 

1 Pushes more than 350 fps on a shot (all my wa magna can non upgraded)

2 Can have a metal slide and still has enough gas left to lock the slide when empty (all my upgraded TM pistols have this problem)

3. does not jam

 

I have found Wa Mangas the best

 

Thanks in advanced

 

 

tm glock 17 (mod to 34) 360+ fps

 

Ksc glock 34 (modded with extended barrel) shoots over 400 fps

 

tm p226 (modded with extended barrel) 380+fps

 

all have metal slides

 

what info are you after

 

:rifle:

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Ok my TM glock 17 does not empty the last few rounds in the mag (as there is not enough space in the mag), i have all these nice guns that are not combat worthy, i want a sexy black and silver pistol that is super combat effective.

 

Info wise:

What exact upgrades all i know is a recoil spring and metal slide :P, what are the generals and super combat upgrades, i want maximum power and efficiency.

 

The glock 34 what mods exactly(as in provide links from WGC etc) and can i get a silver slide, its replacing this custom one i had made thats having problems :

Camera241.jpg

Camera242.jpg

Camera252.jpg

 

P226 what mods do i need to install to get it super upgraded, must be jack bauer inspired (black lower non railed frame and silver slide)

 

I have a $500 budget either a Sig p226 jack bauer style or a super combat pistol

 

 

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I would probably recommend a TM Hi-Capa 5.1 as a base gun since it has a large gas reservoir, only needs a slide to become full metal, and seems to do fine efficiency wise after the metal slide is installed. There's quite a bit of power to be found in them as well. My current Limcat is averaging over 410 FPS over 10 shots (I do have a 7" tightbore and comp set though). It's not that difficult to push one into the 350's-360's though.

 

As far as jamming goes, I have never in my memory had a Hi-Capa jam on me. I can't say the same of my P226 or KSC Pistols. The other big advantage about the Hi-Capa as an upgrade base is that there are loads of options for it. You can almost always built up a unique gun.

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I would probably recommend a TM Hi-Capa 5.1 as a base gun since it has a large gas reservoir, only needs a slide to become full metal, and seems to do fine efficiency wise after the metal slide is installed. There's quite a bit of power to be found in them as well. My current Limcat is averaging over 410 FPS over 10 shots (I do have a 7" tightbore and comp set though). It's not that difficult to push one into the 350's-360's though.

 

 

Yeh i like the 1911 esk type pistol, could you please list the upgraded parts (ie what to buy) for this best or for a TM hi cappa i saw your link and man its so sexy the ATN sight is the Cherry on the top ! Where did you get the compensator from ?

 

Please provide links as i would like to place the order today

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Ok i am a complete pistol noob, this is my list so far what should i add or remove ?

 

All from WGC shop:

 

Outer Parts:

Shooters Design Hot Shot Style Magwell for Marui Hi-Capa

Shooters Design 5 Inch Steel Outer Barrel Hybrid Type A for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1

Shooters Design Hybrid Cal .45 Steel Chamber for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1

Shooters Design 5.1 Hybrid Slide (please check to see if this is compatiable with TM enter SD-SL-S404HYS at the search bar)

 

Inner:

NINE BALL 6.03mm Inner Barrel for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1

KM Reinforced Spring Guide for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1

NINE BALL Hammer Spring for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1/4.3/M1911A1

 

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Since there are so many upgrades for a Hi-Capa it is not really an exact science. A 'fully built Hi-Capa (i.e. pretty much everything thing rebuilt with after market parts) can run up to a grand while a 'maxed' Hi-Capa (A gun with pretty much any and every upgrade possible) can run out past 1500-2000 depending on how custom you get.

 

However, it is not necessary to spend that sort of money on a Hi-Capa. The beauty of the gun is that it shoots great stock. There isn't really a failure point that has to be addressed right away. In my experience a stock Hi-Capa has no problems handling propane (I watched a 4.3 go through about 1500 rounds stock. I took it apart to upgrade it and didn't see many signs of where even then).

 

The first step in choosing you upgrades is deciding what you want the gun to do better (it does everything pretty darn well to start). If you want to up the power you can install a combination of parts to get you there. A pretty common basic power package is a PDI 6.01 tightbore, 9Ball Chamber packing (purple), Guarder Hi-Flow Valve, and a 9Ball Dyna or SD piston head.

 

If you want to make your gun more durable and realistic (i.e full metal) there are many different slides available for the Hi-Capa. They start at Guarder (about $55-$65) and go all the way up to Raymond Ho customs which can be in excess of $600. I would recommend that you upgrade the springs at the same time you upgrade the slide. Guarder 150's seem to be the hardest followed by Freedom Art and then SD (which I find to be softest). I don't really have a preference for springs but if you want a vicious snap go for the Guarder (I believe that SD is cheaper though).

 

This covers the basics for what most Hi-Capa owners need. If you like you can continue to upgrade parts for durability but it may be a wast of money depending on how hard you use the gun. I really haven't had any failures on on a Hi-Capa yet.

 

The other upgrade category is cosmetic things like more metal, colored grips in different styles, mag wells, etc. These are pretty much personal choice.

 

As far as ordering, most of these parts will only be found in Hong Kong stores. I personally think the Den Trinity has the greatest selection and they are a fast and professional outfit that I have worked with a number of times. I would recommend that you go to their site and search 'Hi Capa' which will gie you 30 some pages of upgrade parts to choose from.

 

I think that this just about covers it, let me know if I forgot anything.

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My recommendations are covered above but I'll just add quick comments to your current list.

 

Ok i am a complete pistol noob, this is my list so far what should i add or remove ?

 

All from WGC shop:

 

Outer Parts:

Shooters Design Hot Shot Style Magwell for Marui Hi-Capa (good magwell, fits stock grip well but after market grips require a bit of fitting)

Shooters Design 5 Inch Steel Outer Barrel Hybrid Type A for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 (Good barrel, 'nuff said)

Shooters Design Hybrid Cal .45 Steel Chamber for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 (dido above, I have this setup and it's great)

Shooters Design 5.1 Hybrid Slide (please check to see if this is compatiable with TM enter SD-SL-S404HYS at the search bar) (I have a SD Hybrid 5.1 slide that I use with a SD Chamerb and Barrel set. I'm very happy with it)

 

Inner:

NINE BALL 6.03mm Inner Barrel for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 (the 9Ball barrels are fine but if you want the best go for a PDI 6.01)

KM Reinforced Spring Guide for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 (totally unnecessary, the stock piece is a big honkin' piece of metal, I've never heard of one breaking)

NINE BALL Hammer Spring for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1/4.3/M1911A1 (I would recommend buying a spring set like I mentioned above)

 

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I'd recommand replacing the loading nozzle also, as the stock one is prone to cracking, possibly due to the increased stress of running on propane. SD's reinforced nozzle is what I'd recommand for the job, as I've heard of some issues with Guarder's.

 

The list of items that I have replaced in my Hi-Capa is on here: http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...i&img=10878

 

I don't have a chrono but I am pretty sure this one will shoot over 350 on propane...

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Based on chrono test hkssr20det did one one of my guns the Guarder nozzles tolerances where so lose that it actually made the gun less efficient and lowered the power.

 

The SD loading nozzles themselves are good. However, on both the sets I have handled the SD floating valves have stuck whenever I tried to fire the pistol. The simple fix for this is sticking with the stock floating valve. Just something to be aware of though.

 

_____________________

 

I also wanted to address something that I just spotted from earlier.

 

i want maximum power and efficiency.

 

These two do not go hand in hand. In many cases (like Hi-Flows) you are sacrificing efficiency for power. Also, making the gun more durable (like adding a metal slide) will make the gun less efficient. Just wanted to clarify that.

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I totally agree with Rom in all ways and shapes. The Hi Capa is your best bet.

 

Of course I do have a Jack Bauer P226 that shoots over 350 when warm and locks back after a mag:

 

PGC Non Railed Body

PGC Rear Sight Blade

PDI 6.01mm Tight Bore

RCC Recoil & Hammer Springs (130%)

Nine Ball Air Seal

SD Loading Nozzle

SD Piston (Hi Capa)

SD CNC Valve Knocker

KM Hi Flow

Carom Shot Trigger and Hammer

RS Main Spring Perch

 

9ce2fea9.jpg

 

Another big hint is to figure out how many shots a mag gets and locks, and then only load to that amount.

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Whilst this is all a lark, upgrading and such - and can get you a really awesome pistol at the end of it - I still stand by my HFC compensated M9. She's lasted me for three years and near 60K rounds and the only failure was the hop-up rubber dieing after 55K rounds. Replaced it with another rubber which cost all of 2 quid and she's off again.

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ahh they may not like me i bought a pdi patriot kit years and years ago didnt pay shipping and they sent it to me lol but i didnt pay the extra because i was broke and they forgot about me and i about them, has to be through a stockist

 

I saw this on WGC, type it into the search bar man it looks sexy but why a detonics and a 5.1 ?

FA-ACC-HC51DABK

 

_______________________________________________________________________________

 

Ok final set up :

 

Internals:

NINE BALL 6.03mm Inner Barrel for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 (will swap for a pdi one later)

Guarder Enhanced Recoil & Hammer Spring for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1 ( 150% ) (set as recommended)

 

 

Externals:

Shooters Design 5 Inch Steel Outer Barrel Hybrid Type A for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1

Shooters Design Hot Shot Style Magwell for Marui Hi-Capa ( Silver )

Shooters Design Hybrid Cal .45 Steel Chamber for Marui Hi-Capa 5.1

KM Aluminum Custom Trigger AT203 for Marui Hi-Capa & M1911A1 Series

 

Base:

Marui HI-CAPA 5.1

 

Total before shipping and Tax $US$417.6 (just under budget)

 

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Why did you buy a Hybrid barrel, when the slide is not cut for a hybrid barrel? Are you modding the stock slide?

 

The front sight is dove tailed in.

 

The rear sight is also dovetailed, but you need to remove the BBU unit first. Unscrew the top screw through the Bomar. Remove the spring underneath. Remove the screw through the rear of the slide (allan head) and then you need to gently pry the slide apart to clear the BBU, gently applying pressure from the top so it moves out.

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No the slide has a groove i managed to get the innards out but have come accross 4 problems

 

1. The rear sight does not allow the Chamber plastic thing to sit in, if i put the sight in then the plastic thing does not fit if i dont put the sight in it screws fine

2.The pistol does not rack properly when the stock spring (recoil) is used

3. The 150% spring does not allow the slide to fit properly

4. The silver trigger does not fit, because the gap is too small and shallow, its too small for me to use any dremels or files ?

 

 

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No the slide has a groove i managed to get the innards out but have come accross 4 problems

 

1. The rear sight does not allow the Chamber plastic thing to sit in, if i put the sight in then the plastic thing does not fit if i dont put the sight in it screws fine

2.The pistol does not rack properly when the stock spring (recoil) is used Semi solved

3. The 150% spring does not allow the slide to fit properlySOLVED !

4. The silver trigger does not fit, because the gap is too small and shallow, its too small for me to use any dremels or files ?

 

 

Sweet WGC gave me a black baseball cap with Green camo (WGC written on it) free of charge :D (Red Wolf charge for theres)

 

Anyway after hours of fiddling with this *badgeress* i finally managed to get the thing to fire its mean and packs a puch (chrono is broken but it goes through both sides of a cardboard box) every now and again the slide will stick.

 

I managed to sort out problem 3, this did not work because there was so much tension in the spring which bent the metal guide rod, after correcting this it now works fine.

 

Problem 2 comes into effect now and again when i screwed the chamber and the barrel together it did not screw all the way maybe this is my problem ? Can anyone shed some light on this.

 

Not so worried about problems 3 and 2, can anyone help with 1 and 4 ?

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It's a bit hard to do this long distance as I'm a bit confused about what you are describing but I'll do my best.

 

2.The pistol does not rack properly when the stock spring (recoil) is used Semi solved

 

I'm assuming that now that you have the upgraded spring working this is no longer an issue (since you don't need to use the stock spring).

 

4. The silver trigger does not fit, because the gap is too small and shallow, its too small for me to use any dremels or files ?

 

I'm assuming that the gap you are talking about is the one at the back of the trigger where the (trigger bow?) is supposed to connect. Unfortunately I haven't worked with this brand of trigger but I think that hkssr20det has so he would be the one to talk to.

 

1. The rear sight does not allow the Chamber plastic thing to sit in, if i put the sight in then the plastic thing does not fit if i dont put the sight in it screws fine

 

I'm not sure what you mean by 'the chamber plastic thing'. Do you mean the loading nozzle or the entire BBU (blow back unit)? The proper order is to install the rear sight and then drop the BBU into the slide. Is the BBU not going in all the way or is it not going in at all. It is one of those pieces that you have to have perfectly level to keep it from binding up on the way in. I guess that it is possible that the BBU might need to be fitted tpo the slide but I have never run into that with an SD slide before (had several) so I'm hesitant to really recommend anything. I bit more info on this problem might help.

 

 

 

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