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TM SMG + Lipo + Mosfet


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I finally got all of the required stuff to do a full write up so here it is...

 

Adding a MOSFET and a 7.4v Lipo to a Tokyo Marui MP7 and Scorpion WITHOUT ANY EXTERNAL MODIFICATIONS!!!!!

 

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ROF before and after numbers are coming soon, but I can tell you this...

 

There is no better electrical/battery upgrade for the price!! You can pay the $60 for the battery box upgrade but by then you could have done this upgrade 3 times and avoided having a nasty battery box on your gun.

 

On these guns you pull the trigger and "whack" a bb screams out! SO much damn fun!

 

List of what you need...

 

- 2 pairs of deans micro plugs(one for battery one for gearbox)($3)

 

- 2 feet of 18-16awg wire(skip the deans wet noodle though, too big for this application)($1)

 

- 1 BLADE CX2 Helicopter lipo battery.($10-$20)

 

*i used 10C 900mah batteries for this project although tenergy makes 25C 900mah ones!! i will have some soon!

 

- heat shrink tube pack ($2)

 

- IRL1404z n-channel mosfet($3)

 

- 1 100ohm resistor 1/4w($.02)

 

- 1 30K ohm resistor 1/4w($.02)

 

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So you are looking at $25 dollars worth of parts. give or take $10 bux.

 

The easiest way to do this is to follow a few steps

 

1.) disasemble the gun

 

2.) locate and isolate the trigger switch

 

3.) install mosfet

 

4.) reassemble the gun

 

I know that sounds simple, but the reason i put it like that is, THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE IN DOING THIS THAN PUTTING A MOSFET ON ANY OTHER GUN.

 

The thing is, when you get to the trigger switch, it looks rather complicated, but really its not. You can remove all unused portions of it and leave some leads to your trigger contacts , and then it is business as usual.

 

First up is the Skorp.

 

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Take down for this gun is retardedly simple so I won't go too in depth.

 

- remove this grub screw.

 

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Pull out this pin!

 

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- gun slides apart into two halves...

 

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- remove this tiny screw near the hop up and remove plastic clip

 

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- Bam! gun should look like this. Then disconnect the gearbox wires(spade connectors) and remove the two screws that hold the pistol grip on.

 

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- CAREFULLY split the pistol grip apart! It is pinned and glued! (this is the hardest part.

 

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- Remove the trigger switch assembly from the grip(two screws)

 

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- remove the fuse by desoldering these.

 

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- Remove this top plate( 2 screws)

 

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- You should now see this. The trigger contacts are circled in RED so feel free to remove all excess coper plates to makes things easier to visualize.

 

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- Here is how i did it...

 

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- I put that aside for a moment and grabbed the gearbox. I replaced the spade connectors with a deans micro plug. This is how the gear box will plug into the pistol grip from now on.

 

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I then built a mosfet for this gun. I made a great guide on how to wire mosfets, so if you are confused please refer to it.

 

 

 

The only thing i did different was cut the heatsink down to save space. I also removed the drain pin and soldered the motor negative wire directly to the heatsink.

 

here it is...

 

IMG_0044Small.jpg

 

 

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here is a shot of the MOSFET. You can see how i used a piece of scrap copper to attach the meotor negative to the heat sink.

 

The microplug i am holding will connect to the micro plug on the gearbox. Pay attention to POLARITY when soldering on your micro plugs.

 

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- this diagram shows how i wired up the mosfet...

 

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Trim any plastic you need to in the pistol grip to make room. Don't over do it though. If you are attempting this, then you are problably smart enough not to remove anything important.

 

I ran some 20awg wire from the triger contacts to the gate pin and the positive wire (see diagram)

 

I got a little excited and forgot to take pictures but here is how it should look...

 

You should have a micro plug on the battery...

 

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A micro plug that goes to the gearbox(notice the trimmed plastic)

 

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The gearbox should plug in like this now...

 

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after that reassembly is a snap.

 

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now for the Mp7...

 

The MP7...

 

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Disassembly...

 

Remove two rear pins...

 

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Remove this phillips screw and the charging handle spring...

 

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Pull off back piece...

 

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remove these plastic things...

 

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disconnect the gearbox...

 

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pull out the gearbox...

 

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remove trigger/pin, the safety, and the lever above the trigger. These are easily removed with a proper sized punch(picture) or hex key.

 

Simply push out the retaining spring pin and pull them apart.

 

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Carefully remove the trigger switch block from the rear...

 

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FIND THE TRIGGER CONTACTS!(circled in red)

 

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Add the gate wires (one goes to the positive wire one goes to the gate pin on the mosfet)

 

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Wire in the mosfet as usual. Once again i put a micro plug on the gearbox, on both ends of the mosfet wire, and on the battery

 

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Here is how the gearbox will attach to the mosfet wires again...

 

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reassemble...

 

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One major thing to remember is to measure the wire correctly. This is the trickiest part of it all.

 

Try assembling the mosfet, the gearbox, and the battery together and see if they are long enough(short enough) to fit inside of the gun body

 

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the only hint of what lurks inside...

 

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finished

 

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th_MVI_5943.jpg

 

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:D Thanks guys.

 

I just wanted to add, The BLADE CX2 heli battery can be added by simply soldering some wire and a micro plug to the existing battery connection tabs, and skipping the mosfet totally.

 

This would make for a much simpler install, but there is no telling how well the trigger contacts would hold up.

 

cheers!

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:D Thanks guys.

 

I just wanted to add, The BLADE CX2 heli battery can be added by simply soldering some wire and a micro plug to the existing battery connection tabs, and skipping the mosfet totally.

 

This would make for a much simpler install, but there is no telling how well the trigger contacts would hold up.

 

cheers!

 

Did this last year (blade bat only, used Flightpower's 20C 850mah) & ran it for about 20,000rnds. Did the fet & cables a few months ago. No sign of wear on the contacts.

 

Excelent guide, wish it was around a year ago. :D

 

This sort of thing should have it's own sticky section, otherwise it will be lost.

 

Just manages to shoehorn a 20C 7.4v 1350 + fet into a mac11! Great. :P

 

 

Greg.

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1, Probabily the best trigger response I have ever seen. Great job!

 

2, Any chance of upgrading the spring and seeing how the trigger resp and ROF is then?

 

cheers!

 

1, You don't get out much do you? :D Sorting the electrics (wire/fet/deans combo) on most aegs will give this. (Obviously bigger springs require higher voltages.)

 

2, Already been there:

 

The Mac 10 I just did has the lalax kit, inc spring & chronoed 290fps. Trigger lag was non-existent & rpm was just shy of 1400. ;)

 

This was with infecteds AB fet, 16swg wire, deans connectors & fuse removed from the loom.

 

 

Greg.

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1. Really? He did something to the electric parts of the gun? let me read the guide just one more time.... oh, yeah, you were right: I didnt read the LiPo, the wires and the FET part.

 

I have seen guns with all those/some of those upgrades, but none having such a good trigger response or fast trigger pull sequence. Thats what I meant. maybe I havent seen enough guns on LiPo and FET.

 

2. Thanks for the info. I know LiPo and FETs make trgger response incredibily quick, even on high rated springs, but I wasnt so sure about AEPs; especially after seeing how much the ROF decreases in an AEP after a small increase of the FPS.

 

Sill, as far as I have heard, the mac11 works a lot better than the MP7 (wich we could call marui's first attempt at a serious AEP). But if it works as well in the MP7, then Ill guess Ill finally buy one.

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Sill, as far as I have heard, the mac11 works a lot better than the MP7 (wich we could call marui's first attempt at a serious AEP). But if it works as well in the MP7, then Ill guess Ill finally buy one.

 

They are pretty much the same inside, the main difference is that there is a lot more room in the Mac, so, (if you are handy with a dremel) there is more room for a larger (relatively speaking) lipo.

 

& the mac has that great big 400rnd hicap, which unlike the mp7's 190(ish) rounders,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,actually works!

 

 

Greg.

 

PS, My CA M14 (M130 spring+decent electrics) has a similarly fast trigger response. ;)

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Do you mean Mac11 or Mac10?

 

I think what you actually mean is:

 

"Greg, you effing idiot, surely you mean mac10, not mac 11, 'cos TM don't do a mac 11".

 

Right? :D

 

Sorry, my mistake. ;) I just mod 'em, Who cares what's written on the outside of the box. :unsure:

 

 

Greg.

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Great guide man! very tempted to do this to my mp7 now.

 

how much power can that FET handle? I'm wondering because my 310 fps mp7 would need similar power (as in Watts) to a normal AEG and i'm worried that little FET will overheat :o

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Glad to see all of the replies fellas.

 

Thanks for the info on your build Greg, several people from other forums were asking if the mosfet was necessary. I informed them that it wasn't based on your experiance.

 

Great guide man! very tempted to do this to my mp7 now.

 

how much power can that FET handle? I'm wondering because my 310 fps mp7 would need similar power (as in Watts) to a normal AEG and i'm worried that little FET will overheat

 

 

The IRL1404z handles up to 200W+ i believe. I have used it dozens of times in my AEG builds using extremely powerful 30C 11.1v lipos with no issues. So it is more than adequete for AEP use.

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The IRL1404z handles up to 200W+ i believe. I have used it dozens of times in my AEG builds using extremely powerful 30C 11.1v lipos with no issues. So it is more than adequete for AEP use.

 

Excellent :) thanks for the info!

 

Now all i need to do is to find a comparable mosfet that's easy to source in the UK :( i can't find the IRL1404z anywhere around the UK.

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