G3 Wood kit build

[liquidflorian]

From here I'm going to give you the Full Monty of my technique using G3 parts and let you know where I think the CEMTE parts will be different. I've been debating posting this for a long time, but figured it was about time. You will need a coping or hack saw, dremel or similar rotary tool, cut off wheels and cutting bits for the dremel, and a power drill with various bits, screw drivers, one long shank flat head screw driver (G3 stock only), gorilla glue or epoxy that bonds wood and steel, and a soldering iron if you have it. If you have punches they will help for one portion of this.

 

OK, to start take off the but plate and unscrew the buffer from the stock (CETME will come unassembled.) From here you will unscrew the inset steel anchor screws from the stock. From inside the stock use the long shank driver to unscrew the buffer from the back side. Discard the buffer, end cap and recoil spring.

 

SAVE THESE! DON'T *FRUITCAGE* THESE UP!

 

From here you will need to cut down the inset portion of the stock so that it mates with the Marui end cap. This should work the same with a CETME stock, they're not exactly the same so be weary. I used a coping saw for this, but anything should work

Now, the Marui/Classic Army end cap will have several raised sections on the inside. I cut these down using a combination of cut-off-wheels and cutting bits and an dremel.

You don't have to do it that way, I do, you can experiment with cutting off more wood from the stock if you like, but I found it better to cut more on the piece I know is easily replaceable (a marui/ca end cap). Also, you will want to carve out a notch in the bottom to accomodate the location of the stock G3 screws. The CETME is going to be unfinished (depending on where its from) and should only need wood screws.

 

 

 

 

 

From there secure the stock best you can and take your drill with a 1/4" (I think, check sizing to be sure) bit and dill out the stamped rivets from the sling attachment. Be careful and go slow, only drill enough to remove the top of the rivet. With a CETME stock you wont need to do this, sense its different and not hollow on the inside.

 

Now, take your punch (if you don't have one, use what ever will work) and drive the rivet out the back. Repeat with the second rivet, going slow, and being careful not to damage anything.

What you have after..... save these and don't *fruitcage* them up, they're important!

From here you will be cutting the bottom portion of the sling attachment point off like so....

For this I used a cutoff wheel on my dremel. Go slow and be careful.

 

You will also be cutting the rivet pieces down to size. I lost the measurement, but you want it to not protrude into the stocks cavity and potentially damage your battery pack. You will also need to remove two aluminum spacers from inside of the G3 stock. For this I used some paracord wrapped around them and pulled them out the back. I don't have a picture of this, but it should be pretty straight forward.

 

To be continued...

[liquidflorian]

Now, you can fit the end cap to the stock. You will need to sand down the outside of the wood insert to have it fit properly. You will have to sand it a little and test fit, sand, test fit, and so on... until it fits snugly into the end cap. Also, take the two steel anchors you removed in the first step and screw them back in. They don't have to be flush and if the wood strips out use some epoxy or gorilla glue. I use epoxy to secure these anyway. Make sure if you do use any glue or epoxy to keep it clear of the threads.

 

Now, secure the end cap in place using the original screws provided.

You will need a washer for the top screw, what I use is a nickle. I drill an of center hole in a nickel and use that as a washer. Works like a charm....

Below is a picture of My guns stock. I used a quarter for this, but a nickel works fine too. This is also a good time to install your wires. If you're using a MOSFET switch I picked up some single pin molex connectors at my local electronics store to connect the MOSFET to the mech box...

 

Now we can move to the Forearm/hand guard...

 

First you want to cut the small lip off of the rear of the Forearm so it fits flush with your body. For this I use a cut off wheel on my dremel to cut both the steel and the wood. Go slow and take your time...

 

Now take your cocking tube and cut off 3/8" off of the side panels seen here....

Go slow, take your time. As long as you stay flush with the screw mounts on your cocking tube you're in good shape. Test fit the Forearm as you go. Don't take off any wood from the Forearm. It will look ghey and wobble. If you have an old school two piece cocking tube or a stock Marui plastic one you will need to elongate the hole where the forearm pin goes through. New CA single piece tubes are good to go as is (at least mine were...).

 

Now the front of the body will need work done. Using your dremel and various bits carve off the extra pieces. On an aluminum body this shouldn't compromise structural integrity. I've beat the ###### out of mine for years now with no detriment.

 

From here fit the pieces and re assemble the body. Your finished product should be a beautiful sight to behold.

 

 

I hope this is helpful to anyone looking to do one of these conversions. The only surviving write up was short on the nuts and bolts of it, so I do hope this can be of use...

 

[FearMeansControl]

AWESOME GUIDE!!!!!!

 

My brother's been wanting to do a conversion like this.. very nice

[renegadecow]

Great work, but ain't it a crime to deface your currency and make into washers?

[liquidflorian]

Great work, but ain't it a crime to deface your currency and make into washers?

 

I don't think so... I hope not...

[James Kelly]

To provide the information about the CETME that was speculative in the guide-

 

1. The modification required to fit the CETME stock inset to the endcap is the same as with the G3 furniture set

2. The CETME stock is affixed with wood screws, and provided that they are not removed and replaced frequently, a thread guide or epoxy is not needed. It would however be suggested to use screws at least 1.25-1.5" long, with a relatively coarse thread.

[liquidflorian]

Dude, you should totally throw down a full write up, then we would have the single biggest G3 how to ever. Their would be no way they could defeat our kung fu!

[aznriptide859]

makes me want to get a G3 now lol. Looking nice!

 

Did you get these CETME kits from CheaperThanDirt? They've been out of stock for a while...at least last time I checked 0_0.

[liquidflorian]

makes me want to get a G3 now lol. Looking nice!

 

Did you get these CETME kits from CheaperThanDirt? They've been out of stock for a while...at least last time I checked 0_0.

 

I think TAPCO is the best source for CETME wood furniture, but if you google search for G3/HK91 wood furniture you'll find a couple anywhere from $50 to $100...

[James Kelly]

With any luck, I'll be picking up a second G3 sometime in the next week or so, so I'll have an oppurtunity to put together a second kit for it. I'll need to pick up a new stock cap from WGC, as well as a new sanding drum for my dremel, but once I've got it all, I'll get working on it.

 

CETME guide will be forthcoming.

 

Assuming that the seller doesn't back out again, I should have it taken care of in 2-3 weeks.

[James Kelly]

I'm double posting a month later to post a notification that my CETME guide has been completed.

 

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...howtopic=156243