Tokyo Marui Glock 17 Take Down Guide

[Romulus]

There have been a lot of people looking asking for this take down guide lately and since I'm on break I finally had the time (and my gun) to put one together.

 

Please note that this guide is for reference only. I, and the site this is posted on, take no responsibility for your gun getting buggered when you take it to pieces. Use this at your own risk.

 

Unfortunately, I don't have a stock Glock 17 so there will be some different parts shown in the pictures. However, everything is still basically the same and I will do my best to point out any differences between the stock and aftermarket parts used.

 

For reference here is the parts list for the gun used below:

 

 

TM Glock 17

 

Avalon Steel Slide

 

RCW/RSP Custom Gen 2 Frame

RCW Fiberoptic Rear Sight

 

Guarder Recoil Rod

Guarder 150% Recoil Spring

Guarder Serial # Plate

 

SD Glock Baseplate

 

PDI 97mm 6.01

PDI Piston Head

 

RS Hogue Grip Sleeve

 

_________________

 

I'll break this into three parts, stripping the upper, lower and mag.

 

First off is the mag. Start by removing the base plate. I'm using an SD base plate but the stock base plates just slide off after you push in the latch...

 

Next, push out this pin. I normally use a 1mm allen wrench and a hammer but any number of tools will work. These pins can be pretty tight when the guns are new though so you may need to use a decent amount of force.

 

Removed the pin and set it aside...

 

Now you can gently pull out the mag lip and seal assembly...

 

The mag seal is just friction fit inside the mag lip assembly, all you have to do is gently work it out.

 

That just about does it for the top of the mag. The only part left is the actual magazine valve. I haven't removed mine since a) I don't have the tool that I use to remove mag valves and my mag is really tightly sealed so it is really hard to get the valve out. However, it you have a valve wrench all you have to do is unscrew it.

 

Now to the bottom of the mag. You need to take out this screw...

 

Here's what the screw looks like when it comes out of the gun. Notice the placement of the washer and seal. Always make sure that this screw is tight. This screw being loose is one of the common causes of the mag leaking.

 

You can now removed the whole bottom assembly. I needed to gently pry on the edge of the bottom block in order to gt it to fall out.

[Romulus]

Now that the bottom is removed you can pull out the magazines spring, follower, and base plate lock.

 

The last thing that you can do is to unscrew and remove the magazine fill valve. I just used a small standard screwdriver.

 

That's it. Here's a picture of everything taken apart. Just go in reverse to put it back together.

________________

 

Next is the upper.

 

Obviously you need to start by removing the upper unit from the frame. If you don't know how to do this you probably shouldn't be trying to use this guide to take your gun apart further.

 

Now remove the spring guide (mine is a Guarder rather than stock) and push the outer/inner barrel assembly part way forward before pulling it back out of the slide.

 

Once the outer/inner barrel assembly is out of the slide you can simply pull the inner barrel/hop up unit out of the outer barrel. Sometimes you have to flex the plastic just a bit.

 

We will leave the rest of the slide for a moment and quickly look at how to strip down the hop up unit in order to change the inner barrel and/or the hop up bucking/chamber packing.

 

You need to remove these two small screws...

 

Now you can wiggle the top half of the hop up unit and set it aside...

 

Take a minute to note how the pieces go back together.

 

Now you can remove the hop up arm and adjustment wheel...

 

Lift out the inner barrel and bucking. Note that I am using a PDI 6.01mm barrel rather than a stock barrel. Make sure that you note how the bucking is placed on the barrel. It needs to go back the same way so that everything will line up properly. Once you know how it goes on you can pull it off.

[Romulus]

Here's the whole unit in pieces.

 

Back to the slide...

 

Flip the slide on it's back.

 

To remove the BBU this screw needs to come out...

 

Once the screw is out you can flip the slide over and pull out the front sight. Note that I have modified my stock slight so that it has fiber optic rods.

 

Now you need to remove the BBU. I find that it is easiest to work the front out of the slide first by pushing on the loading nozzle. On a stock plastic slide (the one pictured is a steel Avalon slide) you way have to pull the slide apart a bit in order to get the front of the loading nozzle to come out.

 

Now that the BBU is separate from the slide we will set the slide aside again to strip the BBU.

 

The first step of stripping the BBU is to take the loading nozzle spring out. It is just sitting in its channel but you do want to remember how it went in.

 

Now you can pull the loading nozzle forward and then angle it down to separate it from the BBU.

 

Here's a shot of how the piston head is installed. Note that I am using a PDI piston head rather than a stock one. To remove the piston head you need to remove the screw in the center.

 

Here's a shot of all of the pieces of the BBU mech.

 

[Romulus]

 

You can take the guts out of the loading nozzle if you have a very small Phillips screw driver but since I didn't have one, and there is really no reason to take it apart, I haven't done mine. All you have to do is remove the screw below though and the rest should just fall out.

 

Back to the slide.

 

The last piece to take off the slide is the front sight. All you have to do is remove this screw...

 

Once the screw is removed the sight drops out and the slide is completely stripped.

 

Here's a shot of all the pieces you will have to deal with when you are installing a new slide.

______________________

 

Last but not least, the frame.

 

Note, I am using a Guarder frame that has been modified further into a gen 2 Glock frame. As far as I know this is the only frame like this in the world. However, the inside looks just like a stock frame.

 

First, remove these two pins. I use a 1mm allen wrench and a hammer but there is really no right or wrong way.

 

Once removed set the pins aside...

 

Now you need to remove these two screws. Note, I am missing the back screw since I broke the threads during a barrel fitting gone bad. You really only need to two pins for the gun to work but it doesn't hurt to have both the screws.

 

The final piece that needs to be removed is the takedown lever. To remove it you need to push down on the spring tab and then push it out the side of the slide.

 

Here's a picture of the lever half way out of the slide. Check which way it does comes out so that you know which way to put it back in.

[Romulus]

The front and rear inner frames are now free. Slowly work them out at one time. CAUTION: there is a spring on the left side of the rear inner frame (hammer mech) that will try to shoot out and get away. Watch out for it.

 

Here's a picture of all the major bits that come out of the slide.

 

Lets look at each in more detail...

 

This is the trigger and trigger bar as well as the slide catch and slide catch spring. There is no point in taking this part further.

 

This is the front frame. There is no point in taking anything else off of this.

 

This is the hammer mech. The screw driver is holding down the pesky spring that tries to get away. It will be set aside for the rest of the shots of the hammer mech.

 

I have decided to not disassemble the hammer mech any further since any pictures I could take won't really help you figure out how to deal with it. If you really want to crack it you just need to look at it and figure out how it works to get it back together. The only reason to go into it is the hammer spring and in my experience I have found that the stock spring works best (my steel slide won't cycle with a 150% Guarder spring).

 

I have taken a couple pictures of the hammer mech from different angles though so that you can have a reference for how it should look.

[Romulus]

Back to the frame.

 

The next step is to remove the mag catch. Note, you can remove the mag catch without removing everything else. I just chose to put it at this stage because of the order that I took the pictures in.

 

To remove the mag catch you just need to unhook the spring that holds it in. It makes more sense when you see it in person. Once the spring is removed you just have to pull the mag catch out of the right side.

 

The last thing left on the frame is the safety bar/serial number plate. Unfortunately, I swapped my plate for a Guarder serial number plate (since it looks realistic and I'm never going to use a safety on a Glock). However, if you just note how it looks when you take it apart it is easy enough to drop it back in. This is the area that I am talking about.

 

That is it for the frame.

 

However, it is a bit of a challenge to get it all back together so I'll offer a few hints. First, I try to put the hammer mech, trigger mech, and front frame back in at the same time. If I try to do it one at a time it is hard to install everything.

 

Make sure that you remember to hook the trigger bar spring onto the front frame before you install the front frame. It sucks when you forget this and have to go back and take everything out again.

 

After you have the inner frames and trigger mech installed and the screws put back it in is time to put the trigger pin back in. My method for doing this is to push it all the way through from the right side and then back it out just enough to get the slide catch and slide catch spring in (they are held in place by the trigger pin). The slide catch and spring should go in like this.

 

After that it should be smooth sailing. Keep in mind that the first time you do the frame you will have to spend some time figuring out how to put it back together. No guide can cover it all, you just have to learn by doing.

___________________________

 

That's it, we are finally done. You should be left with something that looks like this.

 

(well, not really unless you have stolen my gun but you know what I mean)

 

Please note that this guide is for reference only. I, and the site this is posted on, take no responsibility for your gun getting buggered when you take it to pieces. Use this at your own risk.

 

Final thoughts:

 

If you get stuck remember that you can always ask for help.

 

If you get mad take a break, it is no fun to break or loose things because you are not thinking straight.

 

This isn't as easy as it looks.

 

You need tools for this.

 

Don't force things. If it doesn't want to do something it probably isn't supposed to.

 

Don't pet the sweaty things.

 

 

 

[greg]

Tip-top. Many thanks, I'm sure this will be a great aid to those about to embark.

 

The only thing I can add (in a way, reinforcing your suggestion) is that the guarder hammer spring is just not worth the hassle.

 

Mine works fine with it, but it is the hardest part of the upgrade & only gave about 5 more fps.

 

 

Greg.

[Senor Bear]

I found the same thing Greg, I'm wondering whether it is something to do with the gas routing that means more of the gas is used in the blowback than in the propelling of the bb.

[Romulus]

I found the same thing Greg, I'm wondering whether it is something to do with the gas routing that means more of the gas is used in the blowback than in the propelling of the bb.

 

I have been doing some comparisons between my TM G26, TM G17, and HFC G17 BBU's trying to see if there is a difference that would effect power. So far the only thing I have found is that the TM G17 has a plastic plug covering the piston head screw where the TM G26 and HFC G17 have none. I may need to take the loading nozzles apart and do a bit more measuring though.

 

I wish I had my chrono right now so that I could swap parts and power test but that will have to wait for the summer.

[Spartan452]

Do the KSC Glocks disassemble the same way?

[chris u'5]

Do the KSC Glocks disassemble the same way?

I believe they are a bit harder but I've never tried to strip the frame on my KSC only the TM.

If anyone would like to do a guide for the KSC Glock I'm sure a lot of people would be very grateful

[Romulus]

I have taken a G18C's frame down and it works on the same basic principal as the TM does. However, they are by no means identical.

 

If I had a semi auto KSC Glock I would do a takedown guide but I haven't worked with the full auto guns long enough to be comfortable taking them down unless I really have to.

[jamesbernatchez]

Just wanted to say thanks! I used this wonderful guide to swap over my two TM G17s to Guarder Tan Frames. I don't agree with "it isn't as easy as it looks" though. It was a lot easier than I figured. I was able to do the second one in about 5 minutes from beginning to end. Everything went together fine. Just awaiting my PGC slides to arrive.

 

Only issue I am having on both guns is that the slide catch doesn't engage the slide most of the time. With the slide off and mag in, I see that the slide catch is "falling" to the side of the BB follower instead of staying on top of it. Like there is too much side play. Any ideas how to fix this minor issue? I didn't tweak anything during reassembly. Everything is as it should be. Other than that they are good(although I haven't shot them yet....no gas).

[Romulus]

Your welcome.

 

It is pretty easy once you have done it and know what needs to happen. I usually take a lot of time the first time I strip a gun down without a guide but the second time it is much easier.

 

I don't have any ideas for the side catch right off but I'll take a look at mine and see if I can come up with anything.

[Frapiscide]

I got the guarder recoil spring/guide and the 150% hammer spring, could you provide instructions on how to remove/replace it? Also, is it possible to remove the hammer assembly without taking out the trigger group? Last also, what sites sell the TM G17 6.01 barrel (Preferably, PDI)?

[Romulus]

I got the guarder recoil spring/guide and the 150% hammer spring, could you provide instructions on how to remove/replace it?

 

There really isn't much more I can say that is helpful. You basically just have to wade in and figure out how it works. I have done it before but the only description I can really give is "it's a real pain the first time". That being said if you can get the gun to that point you should be able to figure out how to put the hammer mech back together.

 

Also, is it possible to remove the hammer assembly without taking out the trigger group?

 

I haven't actually tried this before. The reason why I take out both is that I don't want to bend the trigger bar while trying to pull out just the hammer mech. My advice you be to try it when you are taking the gun apart. If it won't come out on its' own then you can just knock out the other pin and take it all out.

 

Last also, what sites sell the TM G17 6.01 barrel (Preferably, PDI)?

 

Most HK sites have them. I normally order my stuff directly from PDI though. Their retailer is called x-fire and I have always gotten good service (in broken english) from them. Here's a link.

 

http://www.x-fire.org/e.index.htm

 

 

[Frapiscide]

For some reason, the front screw (the one holding the trigger group down), well, the notches for the screwdriver to be put in, is too worn down and can be turned. How much of a problem is this? and can i use something to try to make a notch in it big enough to just take it out. and if i leave it out will it still be fine without it?

 

Sorry for all of the questions, I'm an airsoft newbie.

[Romulus]

It should be fine. When my frame was being modded to gen 2 the plastic around that screw was damaged. It has been repaired but that screw doesn't really bear any weight (since the pin actually holds things in).

 

I also have no screw holing the trigger mech in since I accidentally broke it while I was testing fitting a Guarder threaded barrel (which was a nothing but trouble). The gun still works fine without it.

[Frapiscide]

I thought that was the screw in you hammer group.

Also, what's that annoying thing used for that keeps on coming out of the hammer group?

And when i put the screwdriver in and turn it in the screw, there absolutely no friction between the screwdriver and the screw...

[Romulus]

I'm not sure what you mean. Can you be more specific?

[Frapiscide]

Nevermind about the thing in the hammer group, it doesn't affect the cycling of the slide.

Here's a picture of the screw I was talking about.

 

[Romulus]

To quote from my previous post:

 

It should be fine. When my frame was being modded to gen 2 the plastic around that screw was damaged. It has been repaired but that screw doesn't really bear any weight (since the pin actually holds things in).

 

This was directed at the front screw. The best way is to try it out and see. I never both with that screw in my Hi-Capa's either.

 

Sorry for the confusion.

[Frapiscide]

Would this magazine leak?

This is what happens when the mag rubs against the metal hammer housing.

[Romulus]

There's no way to tell if a mag is going to leak from a picture. Wear like that is perfectly natural though. I have seen mags worn silver that still work fine.

 

Usually mags leak from one of the valves, not from the bodies themselves.

[Frapiscide]

What's the difference between the stock piston head and the PDI one?

Also, what's it for?