chas Posted October 1, 2009 Report Share Posted October 1, 2009 OK, crazy idea here, probably wont be worth the effort, but Im kinda bored right now and would like to know whether this is possible. and maybe someone who has the funds can get ideas from here. So, the damn , ultra-absurd Marui Desert Warrior is inda growing on me, but I dont buy plastic GBBs anymore (well, except for a Desert eagle and two P226s) and, besides: I prefer building something than buying it directly, even if it looks worse. So what would we need to do this? - Army MEU (frame, mags, safety levers, dovetail safety, sights and most of the internals) - Guarder Ops-tactical or even a Kimber slide for 4.3 http://www.intrudershop.com.tw/show_produc...roduct=1363#top - 5KU black 3-hole trigger http://rsov.com/index.php?target=products&...product_id=3824 - chinese 4.3 outer and inner barrel, recoil spring, plug, etc. (hopefully from broken ones for a cheap price) - RS or airsoft copy of Kimber grips - maybe someone can source a Marui Warrior rail? - a can of paint and one of varnish Total cost, including shipping, would be around 220$. What do you guys think? Thanks for any input! P.S. I didnt post this in the Proyect section because Ill probably wont even attempt this for a month at least. Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 The Warrior rail kinda looks wonky to me. Better to have the trigger guard mounted rail instead. And stick on a pair of the china-clone CTC laser grips. Link to post Share on other sites
chas Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 I really like the TM Warrior rai, whie I hate the trigger guard mounted rail. And the laser grips would need to be painted ad paint doesnt stick to well to rubber. Link to post Share on other sites
greg Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 If you want an exact copy, it's the guarder op's 4.3 you'll be needing. & some sandy paint. Greg. Link to post Share on other sites
chas Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Yeah, at first I thought about going with the Kimber 4.3 slide, but then again, a chinese Kimber Warrior is coming soon, so a little bit variety would be nice, too. Plus Im starting to like the goofy "Ops-Tactical" thing. Link to post Share on other sites
SamJacksonFan Posted October 2, 2009 Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 you wouldn't get a exact full metal replic at the moment, even not with the color. Closest posibility: • Marui Desert Warrior as base for all controls and internals • Guarder 4.3 Aluminum slide (for the eadgy look) • A standard 1911 frame ( a plain one, or maybe the WE 1911 Tactical (was WE the one copying Marui or WA?) frame with built in rail, but that's not that mighty than the attached Marui one) • Paint bucket in Tan • a drill to put in the holes for the Marui screwed rail • sand it down and paint it Done and most accuratly, but not exactly cheap and easy to accomplish … Link to post Share on other sites
chas Posted October 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2009 Thanks for the input! I still think Ill go with the parts described in the opening post (for cheapness sake). The WE Tactical frame wont do, Id rather wait for the chinese Kimber. And although Im sure the TM DW rail will be hard to find, Im sure I can source it somehow. I just wanted to add that, if the Meister MEU turns out to be a good gun, Ill probably go with that one, as it comes with night-sights and Wilson markings on the magazine. And hex screws on the grips instead of flat-head ones. Also, if the Hi-Capa 4.3 parts Id need are too hard to find or too expensive, I might just get a clone Xtreme (there's asemi-auto version) and take the spares I need. Hopefully, the MEU slide would work on the Xtreme lower and I could sell it on, to get back a bit of the money. Oh, and yeah: the hardest part would probably be the holes for the rail. Now, from what I could see in Sonny's review, the holes dont go all the way through, as the rail just held to them, but is tightened by the screws between the two halves. This means that, even if I screw up making the holes, I can fill them with epoxy and drill new ones, the imperfections being covered by the rail itself. Link to post Share on other sites
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