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First Pistol Project: TM Based Kimber Warrior


Vercingetorix

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So, I am about to delve into my first ever high-end pistol build. I plan on making the most solid, awesome and good looking/best performing Kimber Warrior I possibly can.

 

The Plan:

-TM 1911a1 or MEU (doesn't really matter)

-Nova Kimber Warrior kit (anyone know where this is in stock? Or can I get it direct from Nova, along with other parts?)

-RS Barrel bushing, black ( I am thinking Kimber, if at all possible)

-Nova Recoil Spring Guide SS

-Nova black Kimber slide catch

-Nova Kimber black Beavertail-or RS Kimber (if at all possible with doable with dremel mods)

-Nova Checkered MSH with loop

-RS Kimber Ambi Safety Black (if possible, way cheaper than Nova), or Nova part

-Nova checkered mag catch black

-Nova 3 hole ss/silver trigger

-AS Kimber hammer and strut- http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airs...il?prodID=20680

-Nova Recoil plug style 2 or 3 (not sure which, but with the hole to allow a full length recoil spring guide rod)

-RS SS grip screws

-RS Simmonich gunner grips or other kimber grips

-RS NOVAK 3 white dot sights (not enough $$ for tritium)

-Eventually, a SF x300 light (I'd get it now, but I'd rather put that money towards the gun itself)

 

The problems- This is my first ever GBB build. Before this, I've only ever owned a TM MK23 NBB and long ago a KSC M93r that I left stock and then sold. I have little to no expereince with GBBs (though I am a relatively experienced AEG tech and ok with the dremel).

 

Second, Nova external accessories are expensive, and in the case of the beavertail and ambi safety, 2x more expensive than the RS, so is it possible to mod the RS to fit a TM? Who would I send it to to get re-coated after sanding, filing and grinding at it? Secondly, how hard is it to fit a real NOVAK sight set to a nova kit? Doable with just a dremel and some skill? Again, who could refinish the slide? In addition to this, how hard is it to put together the whole slide and frame, etc?

 

Also, is it possible to order from Nova, themselves? As NO ONE has much of the stuff I want in stock. And if I cannot source one, how good is the Pro-win/PGC Warrior kit? In comparison to the Nova? And how easy is it to fit the aforementioned other external parts, etc?

 

Lastly, what are the best internals to use? I am looking for accuracy, range and durability. I could care less about FPS, as long as it is around 300 fps w/ .25s (my CQB limit and this will be my sole CQB primary). I have no clue about GBB internals, and was really looking for some help or good reads for this, as I said earlier, I've never tackled a GBB build like this before. What are the good brands and the good parts? What do I need for a snappy cycle, light trigger pull and good kick, along with the reliability and range and accuracy earlier mentioned? I am willing to spend the $$$, because I doubt I'll ever own a RS gun, so this is the closest I'll probably ever get, so I want it to be very realistic in most every way.

 

Also, I'll have the help of an experienced pistol tech, but he hasnt built many high-end 1911s like this, only glocks and the like, with the occasional 1911 repair or guarder slide fitting, etc.

 

 

Thanks a bunch guys, I hope to have this build well on the way within the month, and your help would be monumental in this build.

 

 

 

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Word of advice, although I've heard you can use RS 1911 parts in those places you mentioned, I'd avoid it being a novice. Most of the Nova parts works on their kit quite well(barring maybe the slide catch, but it's a quick fix). You WILL run into a lot of issues along the way and it'll probably be best dealt with one by one as they come. As far as RS sight, you need to remove a lot of material from underneath the dovetail to make room for the blowback unit, and there is no guarantee(have not tried yet) that the dovetail profile fits the Novak for the RS. I am thinking of trying one myself down the like for a set of Tritium, but other project comes first.

 

The availability of the Nova kit comes in waves, I think who ever OEM these makes them in batches and the store stock eventually replenishes. But like most HK brand there is no predicting when....

 

BTW, if you want to get a Nova Kimber Warrior kit for TM 1911, buy a 1911 to start for the base. MEU and 1911 is 90% the same, but where they differ will cause additional problem down the line.

 

Also you may want to consider getting a ProG4 barrel (http://www.prog4.com/db/product-show.asp?refno=AR1586) in place of the Nova. It'll save you some trouble of fitting the barrel to the slide and the steel barrel will not look as scratchy with use compare to the stock aluminum one from Nova.

 

Real steel grip bushing works on Nova kits, buy those, buy RS grip screws, and you are ok on that front....

 

As far as the internal goes, as with all TM Hi-Capa/1911 platform, the nozzle needs to be replaced since they don't like green gas/propane and WILL crack. I've used the SD's POM nozzle for all my builds, and that's what I'd suggest. SD's metal O-ring piston works well as well. Tight bore, PDI, TK, KM...all works well enough. I'd get whatever is available(in my case its PDI). I've used Nine Ball hop-up rubber as a habit, but some don't like it. I find it ok, but then I don't shoot that far and mostly CQB distance so your need may vary.

 

Other than that, not much you can do until you start the build and run in the trouble and start trouble shooting it yourself. I've worked my way through 5 kits for Hi-Capa/1911 myself and now I consider myself to be quite familiar with the platform. But the first one is always the toughest, and you'll learn the most from it....

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I wouldn't recommend RS parts. I have an RS Wilson beavertail on my PGC Delta Elite but it wasn't easy to fit. If you for RS parts it should be because you value the realism and are willing to go to extra effort and expense to make it happen. There's a good reason why people don't use cheaper RS parts to save money.

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Also, is it possible to order from Nova, themselves? As NO ONE has much of the stuff I want in stock. And if I cannot source one, how good is the Pro-win/PGC Warrior kit? In comparison to the Nova? And how easy is it to fit the aforementioned other external parts, etc?

 

I was also looking for the Nova kit for the RS bushing compatibility. Being impatient as I am, I got the PGC Kimber Warrior kit instead. Quality wise, it seems top notch, and it was an absolute breeze to install. No filing.. everything went together smoothly. I was also able to use the RS VZ grips that I wanted to install.

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I heard that the fit with the PGC kit at the slide and frame is very loose. And it rattles all the time. And i also heard that PGC markings aren't as deep or accurate.

Please confirm if anyone know anything about these.

 

I was looking into making a TM Kimber Warrior too. :P

Can't believe you're selling your SR-15 already.

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Nah, I'm not selling my VFC SR-15, I am selling the spare parts from it from my build, and I'm selling the parts from my ORIGINAL (3 years old now) SR-15 build with a HurricanE metal body, etc. I love KAC to much to abandon that project :P

 

I'm just doing this pistol project because I've always wanted too....

 

I'm going to email Nova and see if I can buy all the parts direct. I think I have enough $$ ATM to get the gun and all the external parts.

 

Just to check, however, the RS barrel bushing is a near drop-in with the Nova, right?

 

 

If any of you have any more input, especially on how the fitting goes and good internal parts, PLEASE do tell.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

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I heard that the fit with the PGC kit at the slide and frame is very loose. And it rattles all the time. And i also heard that PGC markings aren't as deep or accurate.

Please confirm if anyone know anything about these.

 

There is a little bit of play, but it definitely does not rattle. I'll see if I can take some pics of the engravings later today.

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Well a friend of mine who is currently deployed with the USAF is returning this week, and I might well end up with a TM 1911A1 in near new condition and a bunch of standard 1911 mags(fine by me, I kinda like the way they look in the warrior with a light anyway) from him.

 

I also came up with much of the money needed for this project, so I shall be emailing Nova with all the stuff I want to buy tonight, we shall see if they will oblige me.

 

Thanks with the help so far guys! Once again, any help on the innards, fitting, etc is greatly appreciated.

 

Will hopefully have a progress update soon.

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I was also looking for the Nova kit for the RS bushing compatibility. Being impatient as I am, I got the PGC Kimber Warrior kit instead. Quality wise, it seems top notch, and it was an absolute breeze to install. No filing.. everything went together smoothly. I was also able to use the RS VZ grips that I wanted to install.

 

 

Everything this man says it true. I'm pretty impressed with the PGC kit. No rattle. (My Gaurder 1911 rattled like crazy), Trades are nice and engraved.

 

Its way lighter than my old VFC MEU, but i don't mind. Just means it will cycle nicer.

 

Only thing i didn't like was the metal barrel. Its painted silver and not stainless. I intend to replace mine with a stainlesss.

 

Ehobby asia has already built Kimber kit MEU. That is what i got.

 

Mine in this pic:

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb128/N...ket/Arsenal.jpg

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Btw, are those real Kimber grips? I really like the colour, i found replica ones today but they were slightly pale.

 

I thinkt hey are. I know they're not the Dytac ones, I got them for Airsoft Global though,b ut they don't sell them anymore.

 

 

The bushing for my grip screws fell out today.

 

Not sure if its just ehobby installing it wrong. I just screwed the screws in and they held the bushings in. Ive heard of this happening on real 1911s to, so im sure its not a big deal

 

I perfer useing a MEU base for a Kimber. It matches the real one much better. (Grip Saftey etc)

 

That FDE paintjob is amazing, Reaper

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Have you considered the Hurricane Desert Warrior kit? It is quite complete and looks to me like a faithful replica (all the controls are correct, and are made of steel). The price is much lower than piecing together with NOVA parts (though I'm sure NOVA parts are higher quality).

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