Tokyo Marui 1911 trigger pull

[david pithers]

Hey, i have a TM Desert Warrior 4.3, still complete stock and have noticed that there seems to be a kind of slippage with the trigger when firing rapidly.

Its like the trigger hasnt returned far enough forward to fire the gun again, although it will fire on the next pull. I read on a review of the gun that it could be to do with the leaf spring and its quite a simple fix? Ive checked the manual but its all japanese Would any of you know how id go about fixing it?

 

cheers

Dave

[RacingManiac]

Most likely, your disconnecter is getting caught under the sear.

 

Take apart the gun when you get to the disconnecter:

 

 

There is a little piece that sticks out the side(right side of the pic). That piece by default, looks like this shape(not to scale):

 

__

| \

|___\

 

What I had to do, is to change that little nub's shape to this:

 

~ _

~/ \

/___\

 

Basically, adding a ramped chamfer to the front edge of the nub, which sits under the sear. I do this with a needle file. Alternatively, you can reshape the point where the sear contacts this with a chamfer. For me, running aftermarket wirecut sear, thats a bit harder to file(and I don't have a dremal)

 

Also helps, bends the prong of the leaf spring that contacts and pushes on the disconnecter(bend more toward the disconnecter). This will help push it up more. Although without reshaping the part, this by itself might make it worse.

 

FYI I ended up doing this to all 4 1911/Hi-Capa gun I own....

 

Edit: Stupid text editor here that deletes spaces, so the diagram makes no sense....Basically the stock one looks like a trapezoid, you want to reshape it to look more like a isosceles triangle.

[RacingManiac]

Won't solve the problem, only temporarily makes it better....

 

My method, it will not happen again, it can't...

[ED-SKaR]

That seems a bit radical.

 

Have you tried lubricating the mech?

 

 

 

This

 

 

Never alter any parts untill you have cleaned and re-greased the parts at fault.

[RacingManiac]

Like I said, its up to you. Greasing is part of the bandaid solution. If you forget to grease it in a while it'll happen again. Be it as in a game when you go to your side arm, or in my case when I am in a match. If you know what you are doing, you can mod your trigger/hammer mech to IMPROVE the part, not just FIX it.

 

My case might be different, all of my Hicapa has steel hammer mech that are EDM cut and have more pronouce corners than the molded then plated zinc alloy TM stock part. They might be more prone to catching. But my 1911s runs stock TM internals and at one point or another, I ended up doing the same mod, and now my disconnect never catches and does not go into the "dead" trigger pull, then you pull again and you hear it "click" as it clears itself, and you can fire.

 

Do what you feel comfortable with...

[TheEgo]

RacingManiac I don't suppose you have a better picture of a modded disconnector. Finding it a little hard to understand which edge your modifying on the above photo.

[RacingManiac]

RacingManiac I don't suppose you have a better picture of a modded disconnector. Finding it a little hard to understand which edge your modifying on the above photo.

I'll try to take some pics later tonight or over the weekend......

[TheEgo]

Thank you very much, greatly appreciated

[ED-SKaR]

greasing is not a "bandaid" or any other kind of temproary fix. It is taking good care of your pistol. GBBs need more care and attention than AEGs, and failing to clean and oil a GBB will make it damage itself.

 

If you really do need to modify a part, it is because some part is broken.

 

 

 

Seriously, keep the gun clean and in good working order and you dont have to muck about altering parts and ultimatly BREAKING your pistol.

[RacingManiac]

Like I said, do what you feel comfortable with...I have not broke any of my 1911/Hi-Capa(I have 4, all fully upgraded and tuned), and all of them run as they should.

 

Like RS, if all the big OEs guns are perfectly tuned, there are no need for gunsmithing.....

[RacingManiac]

Alright putting some pics to go with word:

 

 

The Mod I did:

http://www.pbase.com/racingmaniac/image/127659772

 

The black portion was what I removed, needle file allows me to profile that nub across the whole width of the nub.

 

The effect of the mod:

 

When slide is in battery:

http://www.pbase.com/racingmaniac/image/127659773/large

 

The Disconnecter sits up, in front of the sear because the force from the right most prong of the leaf spring pushes against it, and the profile of the bottom of the disconnecter translate that force forward and up.

 

 

When you press the trigger, the trigger bow pushes the disconnecter, and that nub pushes the sear, releasing the hammer, and the gun fires.

 

As the slide cycles, the mechanism looks like this:

http://www.pbase.com/racingmaniac/image/127659774

 

The cycling slide and the profile under the BBU causes the BBU to push down on the disconnecter, while the trigger(at this point is still depressed, if you are following through properly), still pushes back on the disconnecter, all the time, the leaf spring still pushes up on the disconnecter and the the middle prone of the leaf spring would be loaded to reset the sear. The unmodded square edge is *more likely* to get hang up under the sear when the slide returns to battery at the end of the cycle, due to the way force is applied to it. Note that grease will help(and also stronger spring force, via more bending on the leaf spring prong), but because the force vector of the disconnecter spring, its not just a force forward, its also up, the friction between the nub contact to the sear might just let it sit there. So next time you press the trigger, the disconnecter is not there to push the sear to release the hammer, but the action will likely work the disconnecter loose since the slide is not pressing down on it(right now the groove is on top of the disconnecter, its not contacting the BBU), resetting the disconnecter, and thus the next press, will correctly cycle the gun.

 

Like I said, if you understand how the action works and what the mod is trying to resolve, it should be an improvement over the original setup.

 

Do what you comfortable with, however I take no responsibility over what you may or maynot do to your gun.

[WTF?Shane]

I've had this problem on my MEU. I shaved some of the disconnector where it rests on the inside of the gun, added grease, bent the sear spring prong more inward and bent the tip of the spring a bit more upward. Since then, I've only had the problem occur once, and I'd just bend the sear spring back again.

[Miles_DK]

Edit: Wrong thread, sorry...

[FireKnife]

Apologizes for the necro first.

 

Second my TM Night Warrior had this issue and i have just fixed it, thanks RacingManiac.

 

Seems to me like it is mostly a MEU or MEU framed gun issue, never heard of this with TM 1911A1's, only MEU models and the occasional Detonics.

 

'FireKnife'

[RacingManiac]

I don't actually have any MEU, I have 2 TM1911 and 2 Hi-capa, but all have aftermarket frame so that might have something to do with it...

 

But I think since the mod doesn't really affect anything else I might just do it on all guns in this design....even I were to get more...

[northernairsofter]

sorry for the necro post...

does this happen for any reason? i got a TM MEU 4 months ago and im worried how i could prevent the trigger problem from happening...

any help is much appreciated

cheers guys

[FireKnife]

does this happen for any reason? i got a TM MEU 4 months ago and im worried how i could prevent the trigger problem from happening...

 

It is due to how the part is shaped. I find that if it has a short trigger (A1, Detonics, Series 70) then it is less likely to happen but it is rare for it to happen at all.

 

'FireKnife'