Tokyo-Marui Five-Seven dis-assembly / re-assemble

[NonEx]

Hey everyone. Newly registered account but long time airsofter, lurker and former poster under a different nick.

 

Tried searching but it gives me nothing.

 

So, I bought a TM FN Five-Seven GBB (hell yeah) and pretty much all avaliable upgrades for it.

 

Now comes the difficutl part, taking it appart and back together again.

 

I started last night by dis-assembling the slide and it's internals. Now. getting the GBB chamber out of the slide was an ordeal as there are locked-tabs that sort of "click" into holes on the inside of the slide. I had to pry it out with a screwdriver, not sure if that is the proepr proceedure.

 

That is my main problem, as well as re-installing it and getting the GBB chamber spring in the right place. It pretty much just sits on top of the chamber and fits in a small grove on the inside of the slide..

 

ANyone who has any knowledge about dis-assembly and re-assembly of this gun please let me know. I will take any help I can get.

 

I can probably figure it out but if there is an easier, correct way i would like to know.

 

Here is a list of the items I have

 

Tokyo Marui FN FIve-Seven GBB Black

 

Guarder polycarbonate body and slite black http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-ACC-FN5705BK

Guarder stainless steel outer barrel http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-ACC-FN5709

Guarder custom parts black http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-PT-FN5706BK

MAG spring replacement kit http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=MAG-ACC-SMFN57

Laylax smooth recoil ring http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=NB-PT-FNSRR

PDI piston head http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=PDI-PT-FN57PH

Nine Ball 6.03 precision inner barrel http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=5624

RCC recoil spring (70% & 130%) http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=5334

Creation Airsoft aluminum inside slide http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=6163

Firefly cylinder valve set http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/firefly-cylinder-valve-set-for-marui-fn5-7-gbb-pistol.html

 

I will get back to you with exploded view so we can use this as a common referense as well as indications of which specific parts I am trying to upgrade.

 

Thanks in advance!

[renegadecow]

Get rid of the Creation aluminum inside slide. I know increased kick is nice, but it's broken the slide of at least one of the users here.

Also try browsing here:

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=171694&st=0

It's a lengthy read, but you'd find a lot of useful stuff in keeping your Five-seveN from blowing up.

[NonEx]

Thank you very much for your reply. I will read thru the thread.

 

I purchades the Creation inside slide in hopes of increasing the durability of my gun. I am hoping that the aluminum inside slide in combination with the guarder polycarbonate slide will make it more durable.

 

Without having read the thread all the way I assume your experience/referense is with the creation inside slide in a stock TM 57 slide ?

 

Thank you!

[renegadecow]

Nope, that's with a Guarder slide. The metal inside slide doesn't seem to take any damage as both my stock and Gurader slides cracked with the stock one on and still intact. Fixed it with a steel staple, but the one I mentioned with the metal inside slide just about blew the front off.

[frogfish]

It also broke another members hop-up somehow if I remember correctly, or that might have been on another forum.

[NonEx]

Okay thanks for the replies regarding durability and such. I think i will risk it and install the aluminiym slide. Possibly you can add some dampening material in the gap between the alu inside slide and the slide at the front.

 

Anyways, durability issues and suggestions aside, I would very much appreciate installation help as per my original post!

 

Thanks!

[NonEx]

Hey everyone. Newly registered account but long time airsofter, lurker and former poster under a different nick.

 

Tried searching but it gives me nothing.

 

So, I bought a TM FN Five-Seven GBB (hell yeah) and pretty much all avaliable upgrades for it.

 

Now comes the difficutl part, taking it appart and back together again.

 

I started last night by dis-assembling the slide and it's internals. Now. getting the GBB chamber out of the slide was an ordeal as there are locked-tabs that sort of "click" into holes on the inside of the slide. I had to pry it out with a screwdriver, not sure if that is the proepr proceedure.

 

That is my main problem, as well as re-installing it and getting the GBB chamber spring in the right place. It pretty much just sits on top of the chamber and fits in a small grove on the inside of the slide..

 

ANyone who has any knowledge about dis-assembly and re-assembly of this gun please let me know. I will take any help I can get.

 

I can probably figure it out but if there is an easier, correct way i would like to know.

 

Here is a list of the items I have

 

Tokyo Marui FN FIve-Seven GBB Black

 

Guarder polycarbonate body and slite black http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-ACC-FN5705BK

Guarder stainless steel outer barrel http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-ACC-FN5709

Guarder custom parts black http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=GD-PT-FN5706BK

MAG spring replacement kit http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=MAG-ACC-SMFN57

Laylax smooth recoil ring http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=NB-PT-FNSRR

PDI piston head http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?item=PDI-PT-FN57PH

Nine Ball 6.03 precision inner barrel http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=5624

RCC recoil spring (70% & 130%) http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=5334

Creation Airsoft aluminum inside slide http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=6163

Firefly cylinder valve set http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/firefly-cylinder-valve-set-for-marui-fn5-7-gbb-pistol.html

 

I will get back to you with exploded view so we can use this as a common referense as well as indications of which specific parts I am trying to upgrade.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

 

Seems i was unable to edit my original post so I have to do it this way. As promised I will post referenses with the diagram picture at hand. I copied the URL from (V)atrix post in the thread refered to ( http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=171694&st=0 )

I hope that is OK. EDIT : Actually I am resizing and re-hosting so it wont be so big in the thread, if that is not OK let me know and I will scan my own copy!

 

(original Tokyo Marui FN Five-Seven Exploded View (V)atrix)

 

 

So my main problem, right now with the slide installation is, removal of part FN-15 (and attached items) from FN-1 (GBB chamber from slide). It is fairly difficult. I managed but it wasnt pretty, basically prying it out with a screwdriver while bending the side of the slides.

 

Problem #2 is re-inserting above stated parts into the slide and keeping the GBB chamber spring in place, FN-12 (sits on top of FN-8/FN-15) and goes into FN-1.

[renegadecow]

You were correct in just prying out the BBU with a screw driver (helps if you have 2 small ones), after unscrewing it from the rear sight off first of course. The nozzle spring just sits on the ledge of the BBU and nozzle put together, unlike on a 1911 which has a more stable channel. The spring likes to jump out when you snap the BBU back on the slide so it helps to have some grease on it to keep it in place.

[NonEx]

You were correct in just prying out the BBU with a screw driver (helps if you have 2 small ones), after unscrewing it from the rear sight off first of course. The nozzle spring just sits on the ledge of the BBU and nozzle put together, unlike on a 1911 which has a more stable channel. The spring likes to jump out when you snap the BBU back on the slide so it helps to have some grease on it to keep it in place.

 

 

Yikes, such crude methods :| Would have preffered some pins in there, but oh well.

 

OK then i guess i have the slide and barrel assembly down. I havent gotten as far on the main body as i am trying to get a hold of a tool to remove the safety levers. I read in the referensed thread its 0.89mm hex, not that easy to find. So i cant continue with it until i have that tool.

 

Anything else in particular i need to consider when working on the frame ?

 

Thanks!

[renegadecow]

Yeah, the two screws mounting the hammer assembly on the frame. Some have had them break as the holes aren't threaded and force-threading the stock screws stresses it out. Would help if you could pre-thread the holes first.

edit:

Meant for the Guarder frame.

[NonEx]

Yeah, the two screws mounting the hammer assembly on the frame. Some have had them break as the holes aren't threaded and force-threading the stock screws stresses it out. Would help if you could pre-thread the holes first.

edit:

Meant for the Guarder frame.

 

 

OK thank for the heads up, have a friend who works with fabrication so he has threading tools at hand. I would assume heating the screws a little to soften the frame material would help ?

 

Thanks.

[aznriptide859]

Look up the Book of Toyguns Disassembly - someone had scanned the whole thing, and the TM 5-7 is a part of it. However, if you're familiar with GBB's, the 5-7 breakdown is relatively easy - it's only the hammer assembly that gets confusing. I only disassembled that to do a thorough clean.

[aznriptide859]

Look up the Book of Toyguns Disassembly - someone had scanned the whole thing, and the TM 5-7 is a part of it. However, if you're familiar with GBB's, the 5-7 breakdown is relatively easy - it's only the hammer assembly that gets confusing. I only disassembled that to do a thorough clean.

[NonEx]

Look up the Book of Toyguns Disassembly - someone had scanned the whole thing, and the TM 5-7 is a part of it. However, if you're familiar with GBB's, the 5-7 breakdown is relatively easy - it's only the hammer assembly that gets confusing. I only disassembled that to do a thorough clean.

 

 

Big thanks, found it : http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=102840

 

Also, read in the (V)atrix thread that you could use toothpicks to pry the BBU out, i had some plastic toothpicks that seem to work great, good to know so i dont cause any more damage than neccessary. Thanks for the grease tip regarding the spring as well. Does vaseline do the job ? I am not too familiar with grease, I just have my silicone spray, which does not suffice

 

Thanks alot for all the input, very much appreciated !

 

I am thinking I might have to guy an extra guarder black slide just in case ;-)

[renegadecow]

Does vaseline do the job ?

Not for anything GBB related, or anything with petrochemicals in them. They can degrade plastics and o-rings. Gearbox grease (lithium) or heavy silicone oil will do.

[NonEx]

OK guys so I managed to pull off the upgrade today. A friend came over and we went hunting for a hex 0.035" (0.889mm), no luck, We found a torx T3 which actually worked when applying some force into the safety screws.

 

Had to do some minor filing on some parts and i think we tried puttuing the BBU in the slide 3-4 times before we got a good fit with some filing and adjusting in between.

 

Big thing I noticed though. I installed hi flow vavle in the magasine and in the BBU. This in combination with the 130 spring is an awesome combination, with the help of the inner alu slide. The gun does not feel like it is going to explode with every shot but still had fairly crips and clean action when cycling. Unfortunatly the 130 spring is somehow longer/stronger than stock so the gun does not lock back. Not because the spring is too strong but it was physically impossible to make it lock back, was missing a mm or two. I read in another thread that you have to cut one of the loops of off the spring, will do that tomorrow. Tried today but the pliers i had exploded due to the strong material of the spring

 

All in all i am very pleased with the result and the gun feels sturdy and durable. I think the combination of all the upgrades i put in makes it very well balaned. I can see how only fitting the alu slide on a stock gun on green gas is a bad combo.

 

One sad thing is we messed up the slide catch button, first we installed with the wrong screw, and the button upside down, then the right screw upside down, and then the right screw right way up.. So it's broken off in half on the inside where it fits in the slide catch lever. Maybe someone who has swapped for the guarder bits can help me out ? (i decided to keep the gray to give the gun some contrast).

 

I also have a threaded metal outer and a silencer, the gun looks bad *albatross* with it on but i decided to keep it with the non threaded metal barrel for now to see how it performs.

 

Lower body was very easy. If anyone has any doubts (the exploded illustrates this somewhat), the body pins go out RIGHT to LEFT.

 

Also I am not an expert in removing the BBU... I pry in two plastic toothpics between the lide and BBU approximatly where i know the notches on the inside of the slide/bbu are. Then i use a medium flat head screw driver and pry the slide up from the back, there is a small gad there at the back of the slide and BBU. Worked well every time. You get some wear on the notches inside the slide but not too bad.

 

All in all a fairly easy ordeal when you know the process, I just cant understand the choice of screw in the safety, its not like they need to be 0.035" due to space issues.

 

Anyways, speaking of which. Question. After swapping bodies etc. my switch levers are now very firm and hard to switch. I cannot do it with one finger anymore, have to use both. What can i do to smoothen this action?

Its not the actual holes for the switches that are tight, its something internal i guess.

 

Phuh. Thanks alot for all the input. You guys rock!

 

I only have this gun for inside plinking right now so doubt I will put thru any volumes of BBs.

 

Will maybe post pics later

[aznriptide859]

For the slide catch, as long as a majority of the screw holes remain, it will still stay in.

 

As for the aluminum slide, make sure that you used some sort of damping material against that and the slide - our theory is that since metal is more rigid than plastic, the force of blowback slams the metal back and forth, which eventually leads to slide failure. It's not something that happens immediately - my slide failure didn't happen until several hundred rounds in.

[NonEx]

For the slide catch, as long as a majority of the screw holes remain, it will still stay in.

 

As for the aluminum slide, make sure that you used some sort of damping material against that and the slide - our theory is that since metal is more rigid than plastic, the force of blowback slams the metal back and forth, which eventually leads to slide failure. It's not something that happens immediately - my slide failure didn't happen until several hundred rounds in.

 

Slide catch, yes I figured, since its only a "button" and does take any hits at all, I hope it will be fine, but was still a bummer,

 

 

That is a definate possibility, but I am not sure if you ran it with or without the 130% spring, but it makes all the differense in the matter. The slide does not feel like it is going to shoot off of the back of the rails. Its very firm and steady. Of course the kick is lessend but I think that is for the best.

 

I doubt I will put any amount of rounds thru it to be a candidade to evaluete long term use with this setup as I am not a frequent player, but the impression I have of my current setup now is that it feels really good.

 

Oh yeah, just for kicks I bought a Sig Sauer STL-900L tactical flashlight with flashlight, strobe and laser in one (see sig sauer site for details). Read that it fits very well on the 57. Got it for 110 USD on eBay. Still waiting for it to arrive though but very excited about it