bankz5152 Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Hey Guys, I've had my WE G39 since November now put roughly 12K 0.28gs through since, gun has worked exellently till now. It only fires in full auto on both settings but safe is still safe, it started with double fire every now and then now it's full auto. Very annoying since I just made it a 'DMR'. Current internals - NineBall Hop Rubber RA 44cm 6.01 Inner H Nub RA Hammer set RA Part 91 ( commonly part 66) RA firing pin Rest is standard. Also has another small issue, to fire you have to take the mag out cock it, re insert the mag and cock again to chamber a round other wise the hammer clicks but doesn't fire. Can anyone help? Josh Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 When you changed out your hammer, did you also change your trigger and disconnecter into the steel ones? Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Nope left them as stock as there was no damage to them. Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Nope left them as stock as there was no damage to them. Well there's, probably, your problem. If the hammer is steel he's just chewing the potmetal disconnector, most likely it's worn out. Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Just to be certain which part is the disconector? Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted May 23, 2011 Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Just to be certain which part is the disconector? Part #71. Check for wear on that part and at the "front" of the trigger ( where it engages with the hammer ). Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2011 Cheers dude, do RA Tech do a CNC one? Can't find on their site.. Link to post Share on other sites
calbur20 Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 RA-TECH does a complete trigger group in steel. Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Right well while im at it any other parts that should be replaced? Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted May 24, 2011 Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 the stock trigger parts doesnt stand a chance against the ratech steel hammer. me i prefer using stock trigger parts simply cause the cost of a complete ratech assembly can buy 3 sets of stock assemblies. the 3 sets will outlast a set of steel parts. Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2011 Well I'd prefer to replace the internals as little as possible so I'll go for the RA parts. Thus on top of the steel sear what else? Because I don't think there's a steel trigger for the G36 Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 if you experience double taps on semi then the trigger needs replacement also. Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Cheers for you help thus far. Ive replaced all the internals now with RA Tech Steel parts however one problem still remains. If theres a magazine inserted and I rack the bolt - It cocks fine but then you pull the trigger and nothing - Just a click However if you rack the bolt - then insert the mag - then rack the bolt again to chamber a round it fires fine. Any reason why? Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 I still believe that is happening because the firing pin is getting caught on the magazine, evey firing pin base i have from ra-rech sticks out more than the standard one unless cocked. Can you see if the firing pin base sticks out just a wee bit when looking inside the magwell ? Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Ahh, thats true. It does stick out a little, any way to solve? Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 If you disassemble the firing pin assembly ( remove the cover ) you'll find a spring and a little rod that acts as a spacer ( it should also be a bit deformed with a mushroom head ), maybe try to make one that is just a wee bit bigger ( enough for the firing pin base to be flush with the trigger box ). Now that i think about it, i believe that the "striker pin ( where the hammer hits ) is a bit bigger than the original one. I don't have callipers here with me at the moment but i will measure them when i get the chance. Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Well I'd prefer to replace the internals as little as possible so I'll go for the RA parts. Thus on top of the steel sear what else? Because I don't think there's a steel trigger for the G36 ra tech are making one as we type Link to post Share on other sites
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