jackie_rants Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 Hi there Does anyone how to diassemble / re-assemble the lower frame of a Marui P226? I've recently bought a metal lower frame and have no idea where to start. Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 how detailed do you need, do you need help with the slide as well what make of frame is it I did the change out on my friends guarder one took about 3 hours including the slide Link to post Share on other sites
bb_hood05 Posted October 12, 2005 Report Share Posted October 12, 2005 I myself purchased the guarder slide/frame combo but have never installed one before. I get the jist of a majority of the installation based on what the TM diagram in the manual has shown with the exception of 3 parts. I would like to know where to place parts for P226 53, 54, and 42 correctly since it wasn't specified in the diagram. Link to post Share on other sites
jackie_rants Posted October 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2005 Hi there The kit is made by Action. Help needed on the lower frame only Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 16, 2005 Report Share Posted October 16, 2005 sorry this has taken a while to do i had ito get the p226 book from my friend so that it might make a bit more sense. so get a drink sit down and read the post and ask question if you need to email me glocks @ntlworld.com  dis-assembly  remove magazine and remove slide release hammer  make sure magazine fits in new frame file all inner cast lines as necessary  remove grips and remove decocking lever  remove parts 57 58  unhook part 63 and remove part 61 62  knock out the pin part 41 from right to left (looking from the back of the gun) might be a bit tight  remove spring 42 from under trigger bar  the whole hammer mech should now be removable take care of part 39 and its spring 38 as they can come free and pin 40 will try to fall out if mech is tipped  to remove mag catch un hook and pull up on part 64 and remove them slide out mag catch  push safety on, push part 53 away from location hole in part 60, remove part 60  file any cast lines off the flat face of part 60  remove screw 59 from side of frame and screw 52 from top of trigger mech  remove trigger mech taking care of spring 48 as it is free  refitting  check that part 60 fits in new frame and rotates freely  install trigger mech, check hole for part 60 lines up (a slight adjustment with a file to the base of trigger mech (part 51) or to the boss where screw 52 goes might be required to make the holes line up  install part 60 make sure it rotates freely and that part 53 locks it in all positions  re fit mag catch and slide in part 64  holding the trigger bar (part 43) up install hammer mech part 39 should be free to move up and down if not remove and file lightly where necessary  once it is free to move push in pin 41 and check it again  re fit spring 42  re fit part 61 62 and 63 making sure part 61 sits on the pin 31 in the hammer  re fit de cocking lever  re fit grips  CHECK  cock hammer and pull trigger should fire . pull trigger should fire . cock trigger press decocking lever hammer should decock   CAUTION  when you fit the slide make sure that the flat part on the rear of part 27 does not interfere with part 60 to tightly or the slide might get stuck once the lever gets rotated . a slight file of the flat part and radius of part 23 might be required to stop this happening  insert empty mag (no gas no bbs) rack slide press slide lever all should operate freely  insert gassed mag and dry fire should fire  insert full mag and have lots of fun should sound great  if slide is a little slow a up-rated recoil might be needed Link to post Share on other sites
jackie_rants Posted October 17, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 Hi the sniper, Atm, with most parts refitted, pulling the trigger does not release the hammer. How does trigger bar (#34) interact with the hammer mech? Also, little spring (#42), which way round does it sit, and does it hook onto anything? Thanks for the help! Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 the small end of the hammer spring faces up towards the hammer  the small end of the trigger bar (part 43) fits in the cut out of part 35 so that it rotates when the trigger is pulled  spring 42 fits under the trigger bar and clips to the frame so that it keeps the trigger bar up Link to post Share on other sites
bb_hood05 Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 Sniper, would you be able to post how 53 and 54 is arranged since I'm still unsure as to how it is place according to the diagram in the manual? Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 17, 2005 Report Share Posted October 17, 2005 part 53 and 54 are the small part and the spring that keep the disassembly lever part 60 in the correct place. part 53 and 54 are held in place by pin 55 which goes through the trigger housing and through both parts before housing is put in the frame Link to post Share on other sites
[VT]Mofo2000 Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Jackie, I was wondering if the Action kit is a straight drop in without any modding/dremmeling. I'd like to find out how well it all works out in the end. thx. Link to post Share on other sites
jackie_rants Posted October 18, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 Hi the sniper, I'm having difficulty getting the trigger bar (#43) to line up or engage with anything. Does it fall into place, or is some careful maneuvering required? I've enclosed a pic, part #43 has a red mark on it. Thanks  [VT]Mofo2000, the kit seems good, for the price. Very minor filing so far, but I can't put it together. Definitely me being blonde, rather than the kit. Will let you know the verdict when it's complete. Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 18, 2005 Report Share Posted October 18, 2005 sorry but i will not be able to get any pics to assist you until the weekend but this might help  the trigger bar needs to be further forward and up from the position in the picture (your red dot should be over the silver part ) with the hammer uncocked pull the trigger slowly and move the trigger bar up and then insert spring 42 under trigger bar and to its locating point on the frame  the fold in the trigger bar to the left of the red dot is what pulls the silver part ( part 35) in the pic to release the hammer when it is cocked Link to post Share on other sites
jackie_rants Posted October 19, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2005 I think its put together correctly now... but some areas need looking at, like the hammer rubbing too much against the blowback chamber when slide cycles, mag not seating properly, and some other wee bits. Now the fun part to get it running smoothly. Thanks for the help Link to post Share on other sites
bb_hood05 Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 Hey the sniper, I know that you were able to help out with jackie_rants but if you can I still kinda need some help. Since you did mention that you would be able to post some pics over the weekend I hope you can post them; that would be greatly appreciated. Yes, I am still having trouble fitting the aforementioned pieces. I just wished TM manual included that in their diagram since it wasn't really specific in the placement. Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted October 22, 2005 Report Share Posted October 22, 2005 Because they (i do not believe) do not want you to pull it apart ..? Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 23, 2005 Report Share Posted October 23, 2005 sorry this has taken so long but i needed to find the time to take the sig apart and take the pics   take trigger assembly and turn upside down so trigger is pointing up   put part 53 in the rectangular hole  push in pin 55 half way put spring in place and push on it so that when the pin is pushed all the way in goes through it ( the hooked end of the spring fits over part 53) turn whole assembly over and it should look like this    hope this helps email me (glocks@ntlworld.com) if it don't with pics so i can see where the problem is if you can Link to post Share on other sites
bb_hood05 Posted October 24, 2005 Report Share Posted October 24, 2005 thanks sniper, I was going nuts over the whole ordeal as to how to reassemble the damn thing. All I needed was those final parts. stupid tiny parts Link to post Share on other sites
Wege Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Have you considered a photo-step-by-step of this? Â Neat shots, nice stuff. :)s Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 might well just do that. The gun I did was a friends with a guarder frame and slide. I have just got my own (just had to be done) and when pgc or prime release a machined silver frame , slide and barrel set the some pics might be in order Link to post Share on other sites
Gman Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Much obliged for the expertise Sniper as I'm tackling the same TM P226 swap to Guarder metal frame/slide set. Â I'm looking forward to the lower frame job after your brilliant tutorial but I have a quick question for you on the slide. Â I've noticed the Guarder metal one doesnt have the internal square and rectangular recesses the orginal TM plastic one has to locate all the slide 'gubbins' (dang I'm technical..). Â So prior to me doing anything 'foolish' (that I cant undo) any assistance on how you made the 'gubbins' and slide fit together would be greatly appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Gman i'm sure you can guess what is coming next     The plastic slide flexes so the slide internals are located by the square and rectangular shapes on the side and then screwed down. The metal slide will not flex so a good sharp file is need to carefully file off the square and rectangular shapes so the internals will fit  The best way to do this is to remove slide internals by removing screws then flexing plastic slide. then strip all parts off part 5 (metal part with square and rectangular shapes ) and file off the unwanted shapes. make it a snug fit but not to tight as to stretch the width of the slide. I used a set of vernier calipers to measure it, but a trial and error method will work if you are careful, try to take off the same amount off each side. Only file the shapes, if the file starts marking the whole side stop and see if it fits  Once it fits for width check that it does not interfere with the slide rails it might need fitting slightly to make it fit at the right height  Clean it dry it check it for small bits of metal and repeat again as any small bits missed might damage the seal and cause trouble later  Fit all parts back to part 5 in the correct places and fit it to the slide. use silicone gun oil on the seal ( part 6) and part 14 Link to post Share on other sites
bb_hood05 Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Hey sniper, is it me or the stock spring hold up quite well with the metal slide? Cuz after a few shots the blowback has been quite effective once I finished. Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 the standard recoil spring does do the job but the guarder recoil and hammer spring pack is very pleasing and not to much of a gas guzzler Link to post Share on other sites
japbeercow Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 Anyone have any problems with the blowback of the p226 with the guarder metal frame and slide on it? In addition, I also have the guarder upgrade springs installed. It seems that the blowback of the gun is very inconsistent. Sometimes the hammer doesn't recock and the blowback does not reload the bb. Any help would be appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites
the sniper Posted October 31, 2005 Report Share Posted October 31, 2005 Is it venting gas at the same time, if it is then seal 6 which is in part 14 in might be damaged or the height of the mag might not be correct causing gas to vent from the seal between the mag and part 14 (tricky to fix) Link to post Share on other sites
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