staticzero Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Just to get this out of the way, I'm not using one of the existing airsoft copies of the Vltor because I want the clubfoot version and I want it to be realistically proportioned. And hey, you can get a real one for around $100 for the basic set. This battery design is based around eight 1200mAh Intellect IB1200 2/3A cells making it 9.6v. I might use the new IB1400 cells if they become available soon enough and are comparable or better than the IB1200s in terms of performance. Each of the Vltor battery tubes are long enough to fit four 2/3A cells with room to spare as you can see here (RIP old crappy NiCad mini battery). Holes for wire would be drilled on the inside as indicated by the red dots (approximate location). There's a handy channel of sorts on the surface of the tube about where the holes are, it's deep enough for 16AWG wire at least. Wire will run in the channel between the tube and the stock itself. Again, the red dots are the wire holes. The blue and green lines are wire. The blue wire runs along the 'channel'. It could be run either direction, I chose this way because it best conceals the wires. You'll notice the blue wires terminate in a deans connector. One could use a Tamiya if one were so inclined. The battery would have to be permanently installed as I've envisioned it now but perhaps something could be done about that. Some more holes would need to be drilled in the stock itself to get the wire into the stock tube (and some holes or slots would need to be cut into the tube too). I've not figured this part out exactly, it's the kind of thing I'd probably have to figure out as I go. I want to do it in such a way as to allow full movement of the stock. Obviously in this configuration the wire would have to be rerouted in the back of the gun so as to end up in the stock tube. Modifications to the body may be necessary to accomplish this. It could be wired the other way so the wire connects to a lead coming out the back of the gun, this wouldn't look as good and would be at risk for snagging but it would guarantee full movement of the stock. It would look about like my interm solution does now. If you have experience with custom batteries for Crane or Vltor stocks I'd appreciate your input. Oh here's the project this is for in case you're wondering. I'm going for a Troy CQB SPC look with both this gun and the realsteel I'm building currently. I want the airsoft version to match my real one as much as possible for a variety of reasons, hence the pickyness as to the stock. Link to post Share on other sites
Milla Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Very intresting, i'll be keeping my eye out in here because when i get one i might want to do the same thing. So far it looks pretty solid. Thanks for the information Link to post Share on other sites
Evert 72 Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Nice idea. You realy staticzerod that crane stock Link to post Share on other sites
staticzero Posted March 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Nice idea. You realy staticzerod that crane stock <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Woo, I'm a verb! Link to post Share on other sites
Tsunami1977 Posted September 12, 2006 Report Share Posted September 12, 2006 Woo, I'm a verb! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Hi Staticzero...i'm a little italian soldier who is very intersting about this kind of modifications......So my questions are: How is it works? Can i do the same with a non-clubfoot stock(Model# ACB-2S) my STOCK? Please haelp me! Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 I'm also thinking about modding a real VLTOR clubfoot modstock but with a replaceable battery. The methods I'm considering are: 1. Something similar to the Star clubfoot modstock (which apparently is an awful product), using a 9.6v Elite 1500mAh NiMh 2/3A cell battery pack in either: a. 3-2-3 crane stock configuration. b. 4-4 nunchuck configuration except with all the wiring action located on one side. 2. Something a bit more complicated but requiring less stock material to be removed so that the battery compartments could also retain its originally intended battery holding capabilities. I don't know much about connectors, so the single terminal connectors are just deans cut in half. Please share if there are better alternatives as I'm sure the design can be improved. The adaptor is there for charging and connector compatibility should a different single terminal connector be used. If the connectors in pair A were eliminated and the wires bridged, connector pair B was a single double terminal connector, and more stock and battery compartment material were removed, it would essentially be the same thing as method 1b. Method 2 requires the least amount of stock and battery compartment material to be removed. The removed amount is basically just enough for the wires and connectors to go through which can all be located near the rear of the stock and battery compartment. However, method 2 requires more connectors possibly decreasing ROF to a significantly noticeable level (though I doubt it would hinder a 9.6v pushing a US spring all that much and even less so for a UK spring). Installation of the battery for method 2 would merely be a matter of slipping each of the sticks inside its battery compartment like originally intended (wiring end first), attaching the battery compartments to the stock, connecting pair A, connecting pair B to the gearbox connector (or adaptor), and attaching the stock to the buffer tube. Method 1 has the simplicity of the single connector but requires the most amount of stock and battery compartment material to be removed. Method 1a would require less amount of stock and battery compartment material to be removed compared to 1b due to only 3 cells being used in the battery compartment, but might cause a problem with the stock collapsing fully. Method 1b would offer the least amount of stock structural rigidity. Installation of the battery for method 1 is pretty self-explanatory if you follow the Star clubfoot modstock picture. Could someone with a real VLTOR modstock, or replica (please state the brand, I'm also considering Guarder or King Arms standard modstocks), measure the inner diameter of the battery compartments and center to center distance between the installed battery compartments? I'm curious if the battery compartments will have enough space for the 2/3A cell and 16AWG wire running along side it, and how long the wires connecting the two sticks (method 1b or 2) will have to be in order for each stick to fit in the battery compartments. Also, will a real VLTOR modstock fit airsoft buffer tubes okay (specifically the G&P)? Any input or suggestions would be appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites
Tsunami1977 Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 THKS dave for the descriptio......did u use the ELITE 1500mA? how it work? bettere than INtellect 1400? Link to post Share on other sites
davedawg123 Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 I haven't made the modifications yet. Once I do, I'll update it here. I'll most likely go with the Elite 1500mAh cells in crane configuration, though CPB just raised their prices. I just read that another guy custom fit a 9.6v 4000mAh battery in a real VLTOR stock, and I'm guessing they were SC cells in crane configuration. According to this battery size chart, SC cells are about 6mm wider than 2/3A cells and three SC cells are about 15mm longer than four 2/3A cells so it would probably involve quite a bit of dremeling. I suppose you might be able to get away with 2-4-2 crane configuration but then you'd probably have to kiss most of your collapsed positions goodbye. Just another option to pursue if you were so inclined. Link to post Share on other sites
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