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ICS mp5?


LordShigeru

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My friend Aaron has an Airsoft Elite (ICS) MP5A5 and it's really nice. Full metal, solid, comes upgraded. At first there was a problem where it wouldn't fire, and I looked at the motor and all the sudden it started working again. No problems since.

 

The hicaps they make are worthless, and the batteries that come with them are bad. Otherwise, they are pretty good for the money. Oh and you can HK slap :)

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I recently (last week actually) bought an ICS MP5A5 - my first impression upon seein the gun is its marvelous.

It seemed small (after playing with the Maruzen MP5K, but it turned out to be faux memory syndrome) - but more importantly, the fire selector on the navy type (A5 and another one) is shocking. Its either the version of the gun i've got, or just it in general, but its not the nicest thing i've ever played with - its very sloppy, its not rigid and it doesn't go click or sink into holes and lock position, but instead seems to just sloppily roll over electronic contact points in a very disappointing way. I guess with some vandalism it can be sharpened up a bit, but its not very nice - so perhaps the other version of the fire selector (SEF trigger group) will be nicer - or a different version of the gun.

 

I bought a replacement tappet plate and hop-up packing as after much research I found these were the first two items likely to die (the tappet plate the most in danger), but these are relatively cheap replacement parts.

The ICS hi-cap mag seems alright, but I haven't actually gotten around to using it myself - but after some more research I discovered that the G&P (G&G?) mid-cap magazines are a much more reliable and well-fitting solution (no rattle, either). The ICS magazine seesma bit sloppy in its quild quality, and I found with some yanking I could remove the magazine from the receiver without use of the magazine latch - not terribly impressive, but tightening the screw on the right hand side solved that issue for the most part.

 

So, after buying all this, trying to put the mid-cap mags into the MP5 wasn't exactly the most productive activity i've ever participated in. I found that there was an imperfection in the three lugs holding the sling loop onto the magwell, so after getting some course sanding paper (i lack a drammel!) i sanded down these lugs in 15 minutes (as well as a couple of uneven surfaces on the inside of the receiver), and the magazines now go in perfectly, with no real freedom of movement, and easy enough to load/unload.

I also found on one magazine the construction quality has been compromised - the outer casing of the magazine (metal) has two holes in the top which are supposed to connect to a bit of metal on the cap which goes into the receiver. The holes were not lined up and the magazine sides had been pressed, leaving a dent and making the magazine too wide for the receiver. this was cured by getting some variable width pliers and compressing the magazine in the right place while lined up with the notch. This was pretty simple, but its a good note for anyone whos having trouble with the same thing - the receiver might not always be at fault.

 

I also found after some more forum research, slapping the MP5s cocking handle (fun when loading) is liable to cause the charging lever to snap off at the neck (even with the metal one) as the contact point is essentially at the neck of the charging handle not the cocking tube as with a real MP5. My solution to this, along with the guy who posted about it (and thanks to someone at wolf armouries if i recall) was to stuff something down the upper of the receiver and bridge the gap.

I found some knife rubber (?) is a good solution, cut up into a cylinder shape and jammed down the tube. I topped it off with a flat headed phillips screw, so that you still get metal-to-metal contact sound when the lever comes forward.

The measurements for this is 64mm long by 12mm in diameter (although 13-12.5mm will give you grip inside the tube and stop the item you put down it from moving).

I haven't really put this modification through its paces, but it should stop the problem from occuring.

 

The ICS gun will also accept the alternative Tokyo Mauri flash hiders/thread adaptors (and I assume CA and whatnot too) - although this too goes unchecked as I purchased an ICS thread adaptor for a silencer.

Additionally you can attach the CA flashlight foregrip, although there is some wobble in the grip (not enough for it to come loose however), and the ICS box comes with a long bit of foam which I intend to use to stuff inside the foregrip and stop the wobble).

 

Finally, the only non-metal bit on the ICS MP5A5 which is suspect is the stock cap on the retractible stock guns, which is essentially plastic, including the round plate inside which holds the stock in place (this was being slowly worn away by the stock).

My solution here has been to buy a CA MP5 A5 stock endcap from zerooneairsoft (their clearance sale has been handy) - and to attach this to the gun instead. After a bit of pushing and shoving you can force the endcap on (along with the sling loop), but the problem from here is with the stock.

It seems despite my best efforts, the stocks metal tubes are too wide and tall to fit through the space provided on the CA endcap, so once again I had a go at it with the sandpaper. I sanded off the most un-obvious locations (top, bottom and sides of the holes on the CA endcap), and after about an hour I got the tubes to slip into the endcap (i say slip, my solution was to repeatedly hit the stock). After attaching this to the receiver I could not move the stock at all - so after much angered pulling I detatched the lot and put the plastic one back on.

 

This isn't to say i am defeated, mind you, I just need more sanding equipment.

Thinking about it now, I may be able to attach the metal lever and round block to the plastic endcap - not ideal, but it would allow the width and size I need to get the stock on. Hm, genius.

 

If you've any more question, feel free to e-mail me ( vince at shiftrunstop dot com ), I'll happily answer any questions you've got about the gun.

 

Oh and a side note; as far as i know the version of the gearbox is seperate to the version of the rifle.

ICS have made 3 versions of the MP5, Versions 1 and 2 had some serious issues and people got quite irritated, whereas version 3 is supposed to be superior.

The gearbox version relates to the shape and placement of parts, rather than an incremental generation (its more of a model number), and something Tokyo Mauri seem determined to confuse us by. This is crutial when purchasing parts, obviously.

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Oh and a side note; as far as i know the version of the gearbox is seperate to the version of the rifle.

ICS have made 3 versions of the MP5, Versions 1 and 2 had some serious issues and people got quite irritated, whereas version 3 is supposed to be superior.

The gearbox version relates to the shape and placement of parts, rather than an incremental generation (its more of a model number), and something Tokyo Mauri seem determined to confuse us by. This is crutial when purchasing parts, obviously.

You can't really blame TM for "confusing" people with their gearbox versions. They were building gearboxes long before ICS started and needed some way to differentiate between one parts for one gearbox and another.

 

If anything, maybe ICS should have considered calling their gearboxes V3a, V3b, V3c, etc every time the alter them.

 

Having said that, it's not really hard to understand that different manufacturers have their own numbering systems.

 

After all, you don't expect a Mitsibishi GTO and a Ferrari GTO to be the same car, just because they share a model number.

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Nice one Vince, that was a top post.

 

Everything said there (as far as I could tell) is exactly right. I reviewed the ICS MP5-A4 a while back for this site...

 

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/?filnavn=/r...4/ics_mp5a4.htm

 

...and came to pretty much the same conclusions. I have now been using it for a long time and it has received a lot of punishment in that time (I am not particularly gentle with these things). It doesn't seem fussed though and keeps on working brilliantly.

 

The tappet plate on mine failed fairly quickly (within about 500 shots which I am informed is unusually early). The HOP-Rubber was soon to follow (it just stopped gripping BBs - the rubber was worn and of poor quality). Both of these have been replaced and it's been the best AEG I have ever owned.

 

Since purchase, I have upgraded the motor to a Systema High-Speed version, made a few custom modifications (it now holds 9.6v batteries in the stock, the trigger can be pulled back safely on SAFE, sharpened the mag-latch for a more crisp 'click' when inserting mags, an 'easy-reset' switch for the gearbox in case of total lock-ups (Only ever happened once), and a few more.

 

It still has the standard barrel, gearbox, gears, piston/cylinder assembly, body, muzzle, etc... but it's amazing. It doesn't need a tight-bore barrel. It's just as accurate as my G36i which is tight-bore.

 

With a Red-Dot scope like the Guarder Aimpoint replicas, a tac-lite foregrip, midcap mags, and a big battery, this gun is about the best thing you can have for short to medium range skirmishing (Urban zones in particular).

 

I have always found G&P Mid-Caps to vary wildly in their build, but they do the job. I have some that fit tight, and some that are a little looser, but all fit VERY snugly in to the MP5. They never seem to jam and don't need winding. Priceless. The ICS Hi-Caps are the next best - good capacity, some jamming, generally reliable. The worst were definitely the Marui Hi-Caps. The winding wheel was loose on all of them, they ALWAYS jammed up (I never once had a full mag from one of these without having to slap it repeatedly or keep removing it), they would spontaneously un-wind when inserted in to the gun - they were generally horrible.

 

Mid-Caps are the way to go for skirmishing. ICS mags have been unreliable for some, but they've been reasonably good for me. A Hi-Cap would suit those on a budget, or those that just love to cover their back garden in plastic BBs :D

 

 

As for versions - here goes...

 

ICS made the MP5, starting at version 1. An improved version 2 soon came out, but had many reported failings. The current version on sale most places is the version 3 model of the ICS MP5. That is the version of the gun.

 

To complicate things, Airsoft Elite buy ICS MP5 models direct from the East and make modifications and upgrades to them, before selling them on as the "Airsoft Elite MP5". These are fine guns, and recommended for US buyers. Airsoft Elite though, have their own version system. Presently, they take in a version 3 ICS MP5, modify it, and release their own AE MP5 version 3.5 (the ".5" is for the upgrades). These guns are still an ICS version 3 at heart.

 

Then there's Gearboxes. As far as I am aware (not sure about version 1), but all the ICS MP5s have had a version 2 gearbox inside. The gearbox version does indeed designate its layout, rather than its design revision. For example, version 2 gearboxes fit the MP5 and the M4, while the version 3 gearbox fits the G36c and the AK47.

 

Hope that helps. Enjoy the review :)

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Am I right in thinking that the cocking handle is just for show? (I know, it may sound stupid...)

 

 

I've got a TM MP5 SD6 stock and I'm madly in love with it, it's beautiful, as has been mentioned, with a red dot it's amazingly accurate and absolutly fun to use

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After reading all this, it looks like the ICS MP5 is the way to go, but Ive got a few problems,

 

I totally SUCK when it comes to opening guns so I have absolutely NO IDEA whats a tapplet plate and a hop-up rubber and where it goes in the gearbox. Also, does anyone have any experience with the SEF trigger group for the MP5s, and whether it clicks better?

Also, can someone point me to an online guide on dissasembly for this gun?

Thanks in advance

Boris

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I'm at work so I can't really field this one, but disassembly should be in the manual?

 

The hop up rubber just wraps around the barrel, but means disassembling the hop up unit (which i haven't done yet) - and the Tappet plate holds the air nozzle in place. Thats like the words most random and short guide to the whole thing, i'm sure others can field this better than I can right now.

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also, adding to the question i posted just now, how can i make the icon fire selector for the ICS MP5 click better? as R22Master noted that he could live with it until "until I decide to modify it"....

Also, can someone give me a definite answer to what parts need replacing on the ICS MP5 to make it "The ultimate MP5"?

Thanks in advance

Boris

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I've got an ICS with the sef trigger group. There's a pin in the selector which goes into a small hole at each letter so it stops and makes a click-sound. The click sound is nice enough, and the feel is ok (not perfect though), and you have to apply some force when changing modes.

 

Anyhoo.. I got the sef triggergroup since I think it looks more "metal" and the icon group looks more like a toy imo.

 

sef.jpg

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I've got an ICS mp5SD wit hfolding stock.

 

I'm very happy with the folding stock, but the navy trigger group suck.

 

My questions are :

 

-wtf is a "tappet plate"?

 

-Is a tappet plate that piece that is suposed to break? If it is, what brand of replacement parts should I buy?

 

- every once in a while my hopup ######s up so severely that BBs get stuck in the silencer, and fly at an angle of 45 degrees from the barrel, when at the muzzle, why?

 

-I've been thinking about getting a tight-bore barrel and let it run all the way through the silencer, as I never take it off whne skirmishing. What barrel should I be looking for? Is it worth it?

 

 

The ICS mp5 and it's breaking tappet plate/hop rubber is always a hot topic at this site, perhaps the ICS Gurus should consider writing a guide considering how to take care of your ICS mp5.

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V2 Mechbox Disassembly

 

Take a look there, it's for a TM mechbox but it should be almost the same for an ICS one. Go to Mechbox 2, page 1 and in picture 14 the tappet plate is the long black thing under the cylinder (the shiny thing to the right of the spring). I thought that the tappet plate problem was solved in the newer mechboxes (it was a problem with the mechbox casting rather than the tappet plate apparently) but maybe not.

 

Personally, unless you're a real techy wizz I'd wait 'till the tappet plate breaks before taking your mechbox to bits. Your entering a world of hurt with gear shims and motor meshing and such (the old 'don't fix what isn't broke' applies for me anyway!). Or you could pay someone to do it. :)

 

Can't help with the silencer problem - it could be that the hop up rubber needs lubing more often or needs winding off when you've finished playing or something. Sorry.

 

IMHO the longer barrel through the silencer thing isn't worth it. You may find that you get a drop in muzzle velocity because the standard cylinder hasn't got a large enough capacity to match the longer barrel (ie. there isnt enough air in the cylinder to push the BB's all the way out, sometimes creating a vacuum or 'barrel suck'). You'd then have to find a different cylinder and piston etc. to match the barrel. It's a cost/hassle vs improved accuracy/range equation. Of course, you might think it's worth it. No problem :) .

 

 

*EDIT* - text

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I cant remember who, but i had my tappet plate break on my A3, someone posted a link showing that sanding about 1mm from the gearbox casing, where it hits the tappet plate at the end of its stroke, soves the breakage problem, and touch woon mine hasnt broken since doing that.

 

I personally think all the ICS mp5 are superb :)

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also, adding to the question i posted just now, how can i make the icon fire selector for the ICS MP5 click better? as R22Master noted that he could live with it until "until I decide to modify it"....

Also, can someone give me a definite answer to what parts need replacing on the ICS MP5 to make it "The ultimate MP5"?

Thanks in advance

Boris

 

I never really got round to modifying my selector switch. I have improved it by removing a couple of surplus parts from the mechbox and seriously lubing the runners on the tappet-plate. It's better now but in the grand scheme of things, it's still nowhere close to real-steel or even most GBBs. I suppose I really have just learned to live with it.

 

Can't really give you "The Ultimate MP5 Kit-List", as it is different for different people. MY ultimate MP5 is the one I have...

  • ICS MP5-A4
    CA Tac-Lite Foregrip
    Marui Claw Scope Mount
    1 Joule upgrade (not necessary - I did it because my failing original HOP-UP rubber was making my gun shoot artificially slow).
    Marui HOP-UP Rubber
    Systema Tappet Plate
    Systema High Speed Motor (I would recommend the Hi-Torque version to heavy Semi-Auto users, Hi-Speed for Full-Auto lovers)
    Guarder NB-13 Advanced Red Dot Scope (Aimpoint Replica)
    9.6v Large type 3,000mAh battery pack (the stock needs internal modification to fit this battery)
    ICS 0.20g BBs (they just seem to shoot far more accurately than Excel, Marui, AA, etc...)
    Some custom modifications.

This setup suits me fine for all weather / all conditions skirmishing in Urban envirionments. I have repeatedly put BBs through a tiny slat in a door, in pitch-black, from 50 feet away using this setup's accuracy. I had a running head-on collision (Muzzle-to-Muzzle) with another player (Stormcrow), and my MP5 didn't even notice.

 

Decide what you want it for, and then decide what to buy. :)

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Just to add that simply trying to "tighten up" the fire-select lever won't do you any good.

If you over-tighten the lever, or try to shim it, all that happens is that the ball-bearing that creates the click-stops digs into the plastic and creates a rut, making things even worse.

 

Basically, the problem is because the MP5 grip is plastic. On a real gun the click-stops occur because of things moving inside the gun. On an airsoft gun, though, the click-stops are just the result of a spring-loaded ball-bearing clicking into dimples in the grip.

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I'd seriously advise anyone to get the SEF trigger group after seeing the posted picture, it appears a lot more pleasing to the eye than the Navy group. I really like the navy trigger group, but the one on the ICS gun is nothing in comparison to the one on the Maruzen MP5K, which is a real shame. (I like the navy group more than the SEF, but thats me - might end up seeing if i can swap over to SEF some time now though).

 

I'm going to have to have a go at the fire selector some time, but I've only fired about 100 rounds out the MP5 anyway, because I've got flat batteries and I've misplaced my charger after my last skirmish (so thats one more journey down to the armoury for me).

 

the hop rubber is basically a rubber cylinder which sits inside the hop up chamber which connects to the barrel. its fairly simple to remove, if not the simplest internal part to change, despite how fragile it is.

 

A picture can be found here:

http://www.attack-airsoftshop.com/accessor...es/100_1117.jpg

 

Recommendations for new ones are the Systema hop rubber, but I'd assume any would be fairly good.

I won't be able to give you disassembly instructions myself, because I haven't opened up the MP5 yet, all I could compare it to is the Mauri guns, and it could very will be attached differently.

 

I wouldn't really advise a tight boreor longer barrel, from what I've heard the MP5s accuracy is pretty good for a stock AEG anyway, and longer barrels don't really do anything for the gun anyway (so I hear).

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Where are you based LordShigeru? Your profile doesn't indicate your country. The best place to buy often depends on your location. Tappet plates aren't normally stocked by small stores, unless they specialise heavily in Airsoft (including upgrades, repairs, modifications, etc...).

 

For HOP-UP rubber, my personal choice is Guarder or Marui. I have never used a Systema HOP-UP piece myself, but I have had a lot of problems with other Systema kit. I've used both the Guarder and Marui rubber pieces and they are great.

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