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KSC TMP and SPP buy/repair guide.


tiksom

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I have written and photographed a short document that should help those who plan to buy a TMP/SPP replica or want to repair it:

  • Part I: Buyer's guide
  • Part II: Upper part disassembly
  • Part III: Lower part disassembly
  • Part IV: Troubleshooting guide (tbd)
  • Part V: Closing words

The document contains miniature photos that serve as placeholders for their bigger versions (which will be there later).

 

Feel free to post corrections or comments, especially regarding practical knowledge of KSC TMP/SPP that you possess. My part naming is probably not correct, feel free to let me know what are proper names ;-)

 

KSC TMP guide

 

Note: this is a temporary location, the final version will be posted elsewhere, probably here on Arnie's.

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Looking good!

 

Have you hard of a bolt buffer for the TMP, which prevents the upper receiver from cracking with green gas? I had a quite on making one over at ASP at some point, but the server seems to have lost it. I still have the pics if you need them.

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Have you hard of a bolt buffer for the TMP, which prevents the upper receiver from cracking with green gas? I had a quite on making one over at ASP at some point, but the server seems to have lost it. I still have the pics if you need them.

If you could send/post the photos - it would be great!

 

I will put them in the space [....to be updated with photos...] in Part II.

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I like it mate, any photos you want just ask.

I have both kinds of silencer and can get my hands on all three kinds of mag.

I can do closer pics of all the bits on that photo I gave you too.

In September I will be prototyping a hardened part that is a combination of the piston and piston head. I will make a mule up from spares and was planning to send it to snowman to do a review. probably be the end of this year. I'll send it to you too if you want.

I use a soft recoil buffer in mine that absorbs the impact. it works well (at least I haven't smashed any more uppers since then.

It is just a matter of cutting some hard foam to shape and gluing it in place.

Also when I get my tiny allen key replaced after my summer holiday I will be doing a "how to" on replacing the barrel and hop with a TM barrel and hop, full length barrel in a hollowed out silencer anyone?)

 

Stunt

 

edited for being a simple child

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I like it mate, any photos you want just ask.

Glad you like it :-) I've added a barrel disassembly section, even though it's without photos yet is should help a bit.

 

I have many more photos waiting to be processed and put in right places, so I will go hunting for more only once it's done. For sure I could use photos of various recoil buffers, I guess everyone's made a different one ;-)

 

Hop replacement would be a good idea, because the original one is quite ... delicate, and without too many sources of spare parts. All rubbers I have now are more or less busted :-/

The idea of putting a long barrel that would go through the silencer, is cool :-) It makes sense when the stock is there as well ;-) I'd love to convert the TMP to be less of an SMG and more of a fully automatic rifle. I wonder though if a longer barrel wouldn't require more gas (just as AEGs require bigger cylinder) to add to the power?

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I thought about the barrel needing more gas but either.

the way it works now there is too much gas coming out and the longer barrel would just allow it to expand

 

or I will need a new, longer part# 187 to ride the bb for longer before the gas valve closes and thereby let more gas out. What do you think?

 

either way the tm hop conversion is a worthwhile endevour to circumvent the spares problems.

Stunt

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surely hi-flow valves/stronger hammer springs/etc would work?

A hi-flow valve would help here.

 

But the hammer - surprise, surprise - there is a total of five springs (two pairs and a single one) :-/ The valve timing is related to all of them. Changing just the hammer spring would make the hammer fall faster, but the firing pin spring would still hold the pin down (and valve open) probably with the same resistance. It might be quite difficult to tune it... when I've tried slightly bending those springs to vary their force, the pin stroke too light (only one out in a few shots actually shot out) or mag dumped the whole gas almost in my face (good that I wear safety googles just in case). It seemed that there is a quite tight range for proper operation.

 

There is no upgrade springs available on he market (heck, there is even no stock replacement springs) so tinkering with the original ones would might be a difficult thing :-/

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I've just added another spring (that belonged to the recoil guide rod of an old TM USP springer) to the TMP in addition to the stock spring (two springs, back to back). I have since encountered significantly less jams so i'm as happy as Larry :)

 

 

gallery_113_405_72256.jpg

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The part I was refering to is held open by the bb and lets gas out of the chamber.

when the gas goes from the mag to the chamber it is open and the gas goes to the bb too.

As the bolt recoils and the bb moves away in the barrel the valve closes and all the gas goes to the recoil function.

making the tube longer would have two effects, first it would let more gas go into the barrel before the valve closes, making the fps go up and second it would let less of the gas go into the recoil lessening the force avaliable to the thing to eat itself.

 

The mods I am working on now however are designed to toughen it up to take green gas and with green on a standard barrel on a hot day I once got 350fps so it is probably unnecesary (unless you are american)

And yes in the 350fps day the gas piston did explode.

 

Stunt

 

*edit*One missed full stop and none of that made any sense

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  • 3 months later...
PS do tell if the M9 spring works in the TMP

I have tested "Firefly Recoil Spring M92F" (the longer one from the set).

 

Length and force seem to be the same as for "hardkick" recoil spring (KSC part #185), but it's still weaker than original TMP recoil spring (KSC part #27). I had jams with both "hardkick" (frequent) and Firefly (somewhat less frequent) spring.

 

For an experiment I have tried using both M92 springs interlocked together. This makes for a much stronger spring and it returns the bolt correctly without jams. However, I have no idea if it wouldn't damage other parts with so much force.

 

Currently I recommend KSC part #27 (original recoil spring) to be used in TMP/SPP. It is available for example as a special order from DenTrinity. It's cheaper than Firefly, although it takes a few weeks to complete the order (DenTrinity has to wait for KSC to deliver it).

 

PS: better later than never ;-)

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