Warrior 1 L96 reports

[zard]

About the "spinning" bolt. Personally I don't think it is a break. If you broke all the tabs that connects the bolt section into the cylinder, then you would not be able to cock the gun at all. 

There are 2 tiny metal parts and 2 tiny springs that prevents the bolt from rotating freely. Take out the cylinder section. Ease the nut at the bottom-back of it and undo the big screw at the back. Remove the bolt and the metal part behind it, with the red spot (I have no idea how to call it).Take out the bolt and look into the other part. If it was good then you should see 2 tiny brass thingies. Those things operate the following way:

2 springs sit in 2 holes. The brass pieces sitting in the top of the springs. They prohibit any movement beyond the normal bolt angles. If they weren't installed correctly, or the back screw got loose then, or got dislocated when you removed the bolt then you need to fix them. Make sure you put the small spring into the hole and the brass thing onto the spring, then the bolt in a correct angle. After that, tighten the the big screw at the back and it should be OK. I killed a small spring in my gun before I realized their purpose. So now I have only 1 tiny thing installed, but it still works fine.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Spot on with this, a small part of one of the brass caps had sheered off and the spring was out of shape. I removed this (I also removed the other one as well, so far, no ill effects to be noticed).

 

When I took the action out of the casing, I noticed a spring that was sticking out of the side of the trigger mechanism, not good, or so I thought.

(Sorry for stealing the photo, renegadecow!)

The spring that was poking out of the trigger housing sits into the piece of metal that can be seen sticking out of the top of the right hand side half in the above photo. (What you can't see in that photo, because it's obscured by the other parts, is the grove where the spring sits.) After a bit of playing around, I figured out that it has something to do with the safety mechanism, because when that piece of metal is down, or up, the trigger wont move back, yet there is a slot on the metal, and when that's aligned correctly (ie, when the safety is off), the trigger can be pulled.for the time being, I've taken this out, as I only use the safety when I'm in safe/dead zones, at which point my mag is out as I'm generally reloading. I put it all back together, and tested the trigger and it wouldn't pull. Looked at the safety switch, safety set to on, move it to off, and the trigger pulls. So not entirely sure what that spare bit of metal does.

 

Cheers for the tip TrooperX, I'll give that a go tomorrow night (by the way, we lost one of those G36 midcaps that you sold to my mate on Sunday's game, d'oh!). I'm still none the wiser on taking the cylinder apart or the barrel (can't seem to find where they come undone).

 

Thanks for all your help guys, for novice airsmiths such as myself, you guys are lifesavers!

[TrooperX]

Cheers for the tip TrooperX, I'll give that a go tomorrow night (by the way, we lost one of those G36 midcaps that you sold to my mate on Sunday's game, d'oh!).

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

DOH!! Bet he's glad he didn't pay full price for them

[firefeenix]

DOH!!  Bet he's glad he didn't pay full price for them 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

That i am. Cheers again for that

I'm much gladder i didn't actually lend that mag out and its one of my cheaper de-lugged mags instead that is now hopefully waiting for me in lost property

 

*phew*

 

Also, i've read pretty much all the way through this, bar a couple of posts, and am seriously thinking about buying one of these soon but want to know how much use it is truly going to be? Whats the worst fault that has been found with these?

 

Sorry if i've missed someone already answering this exact question but i often read these late at night as a distraction from work.

 

Cheers

[renegadecow]

So not entirely sure what that spare bit of metal does.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It prevents you from engaging the trigger when the bolt is pulled up and/or back.

[zentaurus]

. . . . i've read pretty much all the way through this, bar a couple of posts, and am seriously thinking about buying one of these soon but want to know how much use it is truly going to be? Whats the worst fault that has been found with these?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

not one major fault, imo (and that's why, i guess, there is great interest ). just those niggling qc and misassembly issues that are quite easy to fix if you do not hate getting your fingers a little dirty

 

overall, a very good buy, i would say, and great upgrade/optimization/mod potential. of course, you have to be into sniping/marksmanship to start seeing any value in the warrior l96

[UrPeaceKeeper]

Sorry for the almost two weeks necro post but I believe this is a better place for my findings then an entirely new thread. So far I'm impressed but htere are some issues that I'm wondering if anyone has found a fix for. The biggest gripe that I have so far is that I cant zero my gun left or right. No matter how far I turn the dial to adjust the scope to the left the gun still shoots in the Lower left hand quadrant of the scope. I know the vertical zeroing needs a small o ring in the back of the scope mount on the gun itself but left to right?? Any suggestions? I was thinking it was the barrel spacers so I'm on a search for some new ones and found several for a decent price.

 

I'm also looking at doing several upgrades to try and get a little more FPS outa the gun. Namely I'm looking at the PDI hop up unit and AEG barrels. My question is does the PDI hop up unit come with the H-hop up or is it a "Standard" aeg hop? Would it also be able to accept the sleeve of a Madbul Shark accelerator? I've determined that the barrel length of these guns is about 495mm in Length. With the PDI unit what length of AEG barrel should I use? I'm thinking an M14 500mm Barrel? or would that not work?

 

For now though is there a way to make the current hop up chamber more noticable? I'm not noticing a difference between "Full off" and "Full On" with my L96 despite having about 250 feet of range.

 

Do you guys think the stock internals would be able to handle a 500 fps spring?

 

Thanks in Advance.

[Pendra]

I have similar problem with my 2nd L96. I thought it is caused by my sucky TASCO scope. I was shooting to the top-left quadrant no matter what. So I took off the rail and put a thin washer under the froward screw. It raised the scoope just enough. As you mentioned bottom-left you should put a thin washer under the aft screw, between the receiver and the rail. With the sideways problem, I took off the rings and put a thin needle to the right side of the forward ring. After this, and with every screw tightened, I was able to zero the scope just fine. Actually I can use it as a emergency carry handle now . It doesn't loose the zeroing.

The PDI unit uses all standard AEG stuff. This means no H hopup, unless you get one designed for AEGs. For barrels the 500mm piece sounds fine. The only problem is the barrel end cap. You will need to widen the hole because my Prometheus barrel does not go through it. Even the stock barrel is tight fit.

500 FPS spring? No need for that. I shoot 510-520 FPS with the stock spring. The upgrade parts were the 509mm Promethus barrel and a K2 piston with Guarder piston head. If you plan internal upgrades: the stock internals and the spring is 7mm type. Most upgrade parts and springs on the other hand are 9mm type.

[UrPeaceKeeper]

I have similar problem with my 2nd L96. I thought it is caused by my sucky TASCO scope. I was shooting to the top-left quadrant no matter what. So I took off the rail and put a thin washer under the froward screw. It raised the scoope just enough. As you mentioned bottom-left you should put a thin washer under the aft screw, between the receiver and the rail. With the sideways problem, I took off the rings and put a thin needle to the right side of the forward ring. After this, and with every screw tightened, I was able to zero the scope just fine. Actually I can use it as a emergency carry handle now . It doesn't loose the zeroing.

The PDI unit uses all standard AEG stuff. This means no H hopup, unless you get one designed for AEGs. For barrels the 500mm piece sounds fine. The only problem is the barrel end cap. You will need to widen the hole because my Prometheus barrel does not go through it. Even the stock barrel is tight fit.

500 FPS spring? No need for that. I shoot 510-520 FPS with the stock spring. The upgrade parts were the 509mm Promethus barrel and a K2 piston with Guarder piston head. If you plan internal upgrades: the stock internals and the spring is 7mm type. Most upgrade parts and springs on the other hand are 9mm type.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Alrighty, I'll try your zeroing method As for the PDI do you think the Madbull SHark Accelerator would work with it? (It has the h style hop up) As for the spring I'm not sure mine is shooting over 500. The box clearly states 430-460 fps =\

 

Upgrading the spring would mean changing everything on the inside as well? This could get more expensive then I can afford lol

[Pendra]

I see no reason why the madbull bucking would not work. It is made for standard AEG barrels after all. On the other hand, I'm not sure it would vastly improve the gun. The PDI has an extra O ring before the actual hopup rubber so there is double sealing there. Then there are the KM rubbers that are H type. I use a KM RH65 rubber in mine. No noticable gain over the Prometheus hard type rubber. Also there are Chinese hopup rubbers on Gunner that seem like KM copies.

[landy2000]

Just a word or two for anyone wanting to add a flash hider to the 96, apparently they are no longer being manufactured. Does anyone know of anywhere that still has stock?

[youth]

I recently got a Warrior & after getting it to shoot the shots would veer to the left & could not be adjusted with the scope. It seems the threads on the outer barrel aren't align with the barrel itself causing it to be off center with the receiver when screwed in. You can check yourself by holding down the receiver while unthreading the barrel & you'll prolly see it wobble. It also seems the receiver is threaded so the barrel points at an upward angle. I tried to straighten mine out by bending it, but it eventual broke off at the undercut above the threads. I ended up rethreading that end & cutting out new slots for the BB feed & mag catch screw. It seems straighter now, but still angle upwards. Of course now then end of the inner barrel sticks out about 1.5" so I'm gonna have to extend the outer barrel somehow or maybe turn it into a carbine.

 

Made a mistake in my dimensioning so the slot for the hopup is a bit big.

[Avneet]

Ahhh, these posts keep scaring me from buying this. I keep geting so close to ordering, than bam. lol

[Wedgie]

Ahhh, these posts keep scaring me from buying this. I keep geting so close to ordering, than bam. lol

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

What? You got put off by the fact that someone took their one apart and broke it themselves?

Here is something to think about. I got mine, took it apart to give it a little clean and then put it back together and it works fine. Fair enough its pretty hard to zero the scope properly, but a small bit of patience and tweaking like a few posts up have discussed will get it all zeroed up nicely.

From what I have head so far about the warrior 1, the majority of incidents of something going wrong with it have been the result of people taking them apart and *fruitcage*-ing them up. Be it trying to fix something or putting more powerful internals in it which inevitably ends up in something breaking.

 

The only things I had to alter with mine was the scope and mag indicator. The mag indicator just involved taking the stock apart and then changing the position of one spring, and the scope just needed some slight mods and some tweaking. Even though I can still pick off targets pretty well anyway when the scope isn't perfectly zeroed. You have to remember this gun only cost like £45 lol.

 

My advice, buy it. Your missing out if you don't.

 

[/rant]

[youth]

The only things I had to alter with mine was the scope and mag indicator. The mag indicator just involved taking the stock apart and then changing the position of one spring, and the scope just needed some slight mods and some tweaking. Even though I can still pick off targets pretty well anyway when the scope isn't perfectly zeroed. You have to remember this gun only cost like £45 lol.

 

My advice, buy it. Your missing out if you don't. 

 

[/rant]

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

You should think twice about buying if you want to skirmish with it. For just looks it's not bad. The quality control is non existant & for the price I guess that's to be somewhat expected. I did break mine trying to fix their mistakes. The scope can't be zeroed by itself (adjusted windage to it's limit & it still shot to the left) because the barrel wasn't threaded properly on mine. I did the mag indicator fix & the spring in the mag is so weak it can't push it up. I would say this is strictly a project gun. I'm lucky that I have access to a machine shop so that I can at least attempt to fix any issues resulting from their poor QC.

 

Then again maybe I just got a bad batch & whatever you get might be good out of the box.

[RSM]

I've got one of these being ordered from Gunner (well, my friend is ordering one for him and one for me), what I need to know is:

 

Does the PDI hop unit go in no problems?

 

Can the PDI hop unit then take standard AEG tightbores?

 

If yes to the previous two can I then fit an AEG bucking?

 

If yes any particularly recomendded ones?

 

Or should I just stop fretting as these are good enough for what you pay stock?

[Stealthbomber]

I find it hard to believe that Warrior manage to produce thousands of barrels that are threaded perfectly and yet yours came out of the machine all wrong.

 

While I'm at it I'd also contend that it is actually impossible to thread the barrel so that it screws on misaligned but, meh!

 

I also can't really put much faith in the account of somebody who is heavy-handed enough to snap their barrel while attempting to straighten it.

 

I dunno about looking along the barrel but I'd suggest placing the action on a flat surface and ensuring that the gap between the barrel and the surface is the same all the way along the barrel.

 

RSM:-

 

Yes, yes, yes, Promethetheus and "it depends".

 

It seems a bit paradoxical to spend a fortune on parts for a gun which only cost 50 quid.

 

Personally, my own plan was to fit the PDI hop-up, a whizzy AEG barrel and hop-up.

Having looked at the original hop-up unit, I'm pretty sure a standard AEG barrel will fit into it with some minor modifications (possibly simply cutting a groove around it) so I haven't bothered buying the PDI hop-up.

 

However, after stripping and cleaning the gun then making a small modification to the hop-up, I've found the accuracy of the standard gun is excellent so I haven't really had the urge to rip it apart and change it around any more.

 

*EDIT*

One proviso regarding Prometheus barrels:-

They're stainless steel so DON'T buy a longer one than neccesary with the idea of cutting it down. You can't.

You need to buy the longest barrel that fits inside the outer barrel.

 

While I'm at it, the sponge barrel spacers are okayish but not great. If you are going nuts to improve the L96, a new set of barrel spacers will probably help a lot.

[rewez]

However, after stripping and cleaning the gun then making a small modification to the hop-up, I've found the accuracy of the standard gun is excellent so I haven't really had the urge to rip it apart and change it around any more.

 

care to spare some details on how you modified the hop-up?

[Stealthbomber]

I could but then your gun might be as good as mine.

 

 

Oh, go on then...

The hop-up arm presses directly on the hop-sleeve.

I changed this by fitting a couple of 5mm long lengths of o-ring materail side by side in the hop-up. This creates a sort of V hop-up.

 

The arm is too long to work with this. As a result you need to file a couple of mm off the end of the arm that normally presses down on the sleeve. You need to be VERY careful to do this accurately, so that both bits of rubber get pressed evenly or the gun will curve shots left or right.

 

This might all sound a bit obscure right now but if you ever get the gun in bits it's easy to see how it'll work.

[Shifty-PK]

What about cutting down some inner tube of your bycycle into this as the oring material you suggested?

[Stealthbomber]

If you plan to do what I did, you need a couple of fairly accurate round things about the size of a hop-up bucking.

 

Pic attached for clarity.

 

[MooCow]

genius!

[rewez]

I could but then your gun might be as good as mine.

 

 

Oh, go on then...

The hop-up arm presses directly on the hop-sleeve.

I changed this by fitting a couple of 5mm long lengths of o-ring materail side by side in the hop-up. This creates a sort of V hop-up.

 

The arm is too long to work with this. As a result you need to file a couple of mm off the end of the arm that normally presses down on the sleeve. You need to be VERY careful to do this accurately, so that both bits of rubber get pressed evenly or the gun will curve shots left or right.

 

This might all sound a bit obscure right now but if you ever get the gun in bits it's easy to see how it'll work.

 

 

I can't really understand the side by side o-rings part.

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the stock hop-up a type of V hop-up with the two teeth(arms?) sticking out at the bottom?

 

A photo of your set-up would be nice but I wouldn't want to bother you too much.

Thanks anyway, Stealth.

 

Cheers!

[Stealthbomber]

I can't really understand the side by side o-rings part. 

Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the stock hop-up a type of V hop-up with the two teeth(arms?) sticking out at the bottom?

 

A photo of your set-up would be nice but I wouldn't want to bother you too much.

Thanks anyway, Stealth.

 

Cheers!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

You're right about the arm having a sort of I shape but I was worried that the plastic arm pressing on the rubber sleeve would be too harsh.

 

I got hold of a single o-ring about 3mm thick but about 6" diameter (so it looked like a big black elastic band).

I then chopped out a couple of 5mm long lengths.

I laid these lengths side by side inside the hole where the arm used to poke through.

 

The result is that the hop-up is softer but works just as well. So you get improved muzzle velocity with equal accuracy.

[rewez]

genius!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

He's right.

 

THANKS!!!

 

And another thank you for the drawing.

[Pendra]

The orignal hopup rubber in mine was practically wasted by the hard plastic things and the improper assembly in the factory. The 2 little wings were broken on the plastic ring inside the hopup unit. That ment that the barrel could rotate around. It managed to get in a position the side of the H shape pushed middle with great force. Effectively, the H shape cut staight lines into the the rubber.

As for the PDI unit, I'm generally unhappy with it. Yeah I can use a long prometheus barrel but I just can't set the hop right as PDI included a totally unusable bucking tube.