GuzziHero Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Got the M15A4 CQB SEAL and it seems to be incredibly noisy. It makes a loud clack sound rather than the more thumpy M15 rifle or even my old P90. I know its a very short barrel but do other extreme short barrel guns sound like this? Im sure its perfect...just not what I expected! Ill get an audio clip soon as the battery is fully charged. Link to post Share on other sites
Panzergraf Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 I think the M15 CQB variants and the new SPR have aluminium piston heads. I know my Steel + Wood CA SLR had one. They really make the guns sound much cooler, IMO. Enjoy it Link to post Share on other sites
GuzziHero Posted November 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 I think the M15 CQB variants and the new SPR have aluminium piston heads. I know my Steel + Wood CA SLR had one. They really make the guns sound much cooler, IMO. Enjoy it <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You know...I think youre right - when I fired it, the last shot was auto (I quickly fired it in semi to decompress the spring!) and it would seem the piston head is alu. Same yellow plastic piston as my a2 though. The sides of the gearbox are also a dull metal rubbed design and it is extremely well lubed. I think QC must have shot up (other than the missing hop pin retainer ). Link to post Share on other sites
***Ice*** Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 I think the M15 CQB variants and the new SPR have aluminium piston heads. I know my Steel + Wood CA SLR had one. They really make the guns sound much cooler, IMO. Enjoy it <{POST_SNAPBACK}> They're also heavier and denser, meaning they slow down your ROF (as opposed to a plastic bearingless head) plus they transfer more energy to the gearbox shell, reducing its life. Ice Link to post Share on other sites
SlvrDragon50 Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Is getting a metal piston head worth it if I use semi only Link to post Share on other sites
Panzergraf Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 They're also heavier and denser, meaning they slow down your ROF (as opposed to a plastic bearingless head) plus they transfer more energy to the gearbox shell, reducing its life. Ice <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah that's why I only use them in V3 gearboxes... But in a stock CA I don't think they'd cause much harm to the shell. Link to post Share on other sites
***Ice*** Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 I just don't use them at all. Even under the stock CA spring it'll still reduce the life of the shell a fair bit. Ice Link to post Share on other sites
GuzziHero Posted November 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 For the ROF...well, Ive got a 9.6 battery. Im pretty sure they must have reinforced something to take it...Im not sure theyd put in a part that is known to reduce lifespan. Unless they want more money from people for replacement parts as well as a PO'd customer base! While Im on the subject of the SEAL...what is the advantage over the 7mm bushes compared to 6mm? Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 First part: Ha, reinforced my *albatross*! Maybe stuck a thin rubber washer on the inside of the cylinder head but that's it. Ally piston heads are a bad idea. Second part: If they are ballraces(most likely being a new CA) then it'll have bigger balls which can take more of a pounding(ooh) and if they are plain bushings then there is more material, again to take a bashing, between the axle and gearbox. Not as essential in plain bushings but hey. Basically the larger they are then the more load they can take, know what I mean? Link to post Share on other sites
GuzziHero Posted November 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 First part: Ha, reinforced my *albatross*! Maybe stuck a thin rubber washer on the inside of the cylinder head but that's it. Ally piston heads are a bad idea. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeh. So youd recommend I swap the cylinder head, if it is alu? Edit: it is aluminium: http://www.gamepod.com/product_095.htm Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Oh no. Leave the metal cylinder head, it's the metal piston head you should change to plastic. I would go with a Systema silent piston head with the red rubber zit on top which helps absorb the impact somewhat. However, you might only be able to buy that as new piston/cylinder head combo, at the very least, so if you wanna go cheap then any plastic piston head would be better than metal. Link to post Share on other sites
***Ice*** Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 The silent head set certainly absorbs some shock, and less energy is transferred to the shell, however I've always thought it would have been better if Systema has made the cylinder head plastic too. Personally I think a stock plastic CA piston head and cylinder head will transfer less energy than any after market, obviously the piston weight also effects the gearbox shell. Guzzi, your gearbox shell will last a good while with the parts it has, if you're really worried about the life of your shell you could spend £20 now, that would save spending £40 for a new shell in 9 months time, but that doesn't mean it'll last forever, you may need a new one in 12 months time instead. Obviously these are just numbers I'm pulling out of my head, I don't know how much you play, or your style. Ice Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 My Systema silent cylinder head has a raised flat rubber ring set into it so this too helps with absorbing impact. Link to post Share on other sites
GuzziHero Posted November 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 I have a big red rubber knob (silent piston head + cylinder) on my A2 and it doesnt seem to do too much...but then I cant see whats going on inside. I will say though...'Silent' me aunt Fanny. Is it hell as like! Luckily the CQB is going to be my backup gun...ironic as its already cost more than my A2 Rifle and all its upgrades...but then, since when did I ever make sense? I think Ill leave the internals alone for now, after all my trials and tribulations with the other one! On a side note...I love the crane stock...but its a pain in the bum to fit a 9.6v battery to! Edit: Id love some help fitting this battery to the crane stock. I put it on and it either wont go all the way out, or it wont go all the way in, depending on where I place the wires. Two of the wire terminals into the battery sections have also gotten damaged in the process of trying to fit the godforsaken thing. Please help!!!!! Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 As discussed before the silencing effect is a load old bulls#it. Anyway, onto the Crane stock, have a look at what I wrote here as it may help you. That's if your up for messin' about with stuff. (Last bit on the 6th post): http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...=71255&hl=crane Link to post Share on other sites
Lord Jebus Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 I have a big red rubber knob <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Sigged Link to post Share on other sites
GuzziHero Posted November 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 My wonderful father (genius that he is) is planning to swap the connectors over for PP3 type connectors: These can apparently take up to 4.2Ah so they should handle my 1900mAh, and be much flatter profile. Can anyone spot any flaws in this plan that we have missed? Edit: Of course I will also need a PP3 connector for the battery charger. The + wire on the battery seems woefully short. Probably good enough for an 8.4, not enough for the 9.6 Link to post Share on other sites
Hustie Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Ermm, am I missing something? The connector in that pic is 9V battery connector. As in the ones that take the little disposable single cells. Link to post Share on other sites
juicymeat Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 These can apparently take up to 4.2Ah so they should handle my 1900mAh, and be much flatter profile. Can anyone spot any flaws in this plan that we have missed? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'm pretty sure you're overlooking that those look like the ones for 9v batteries, and if they are, then I highly doubt that they are rated to handle the amperage flow of an airsoft battery, which draws 15-20 amps in most applications. Link to post Share on other sites
GuzziHero Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 Yep, theyre for PP3/PP9 batteries. In Maplins, they are rated to take 4.2Ah. He will check that they will take the power before he buys them --- What we have worked out has happened is that when Ive pulled the stock back, its pulled the centre row of batteries out of the stock tube. Pushing it back in has pinched and cut the positive wire insulation, causing a short. This is why the gun went loopy when I pushed it back in. Rather bad design, unless Im doing something wrong. Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 What I suggest Guzzi is that you do what Systema does with their PTW batteries. They link each stick, i.e. left to middle and right to middle, with U shapes sections of large gauge wire and heat shrink the muthas so the whole lot is set in an inverted V shape, if looking end-on. In addition, and I recommend using Corally or Deans plugs, epoxy or, as I prefer, bind in cotton then soak in super glue and you will stick your plug solidly to the end of the centre stick. Then in combination with my coil wire mod you will never have a trapped or broken wire again - hopefully. Link to post Share on other sites
GuzziHero Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 Thats cool but one question is, how can I stop the centre battery from being forced back into the stock tube when I collapse the stock? This is what has cut my insulation open on the +ve wire If the wires from the centre stick had been longer in the first place, this wouldnt have happened Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 All the battery cells including the centre lot move as one with the stock due to all being connected in unison by the large guage wire frames. The springy wire extension in the bottom of the stock tube, coming from the gearbox, does all the moving and doesn't get damaged because it is inside the tube at the bottom, mostly. Link to post Share on other sites
GuzziHero Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 Problem is, the centre row of batteries wont move cleanly because the positive wire is jamming it pretty solid in there. Thats whats done the damage so far So any idea where that moves back and forth wont work. One thing I have done is file down the stock guide at the back of the stock a little to prevent the battery wires snagging on that. Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 Guzzi, are you using SubC 23mm diam cells or AF 17mm diam? Link to post Share on other sites
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