The Complete VSR Thread

[Hammerfall]

I was considering lending my skills to the Scotland team this coming game in December. Not sure i want to now

 

I think NV, VSR and Catterick will mean rather a lot of kills come sun down Wish I could convince myself I have no reason to want a Tanaka. I guess the problem is really that of a subjective preference. Its difficult to weigh the two up, a hobby should be a case of heart over head, but regardless I am drawn to VSR.

[docs90]

farrasdevell,yep i did spend a lot of the time under that bloody train ,but the looks on the faces at 25 and on the bridge made it worth while , 18 was mine and mine alone on the sunday , with in the first 30 seconds of game on sunday i had scored 4 confirmed from 21 23 25 and the mine , i had x-hairs on one guy the momment the wistle went as he took a sip of his morning cuppa ,his face said a 1000 words

 

As for the night fun , even with my setup (ir laser illuminator or pressure switch ,100mw ,cobra merlin and dsa on my scope ) theres still those who dont like to take there night hits as there unsure theres anyone out there ,hence the switch to the ar15

 

Bring on december ,afterall its my Catterick

[infected]

Hey guys... I've for so long been an AEG guy, but have begun my venture into the bolt action world. That said... it's like being a noob again. While I've done simple repairs on existing guns, I've never done a from scratch build. From what I've gathered through skimming through this thread:

 

1. Stick with either PDI all the way or Laylax, but don't mix and match.

2. Laylax parts are near impossible to find now.

3. See earlier pages for PDI or Laylax builds

 

I'm starting with a JG BAR 10 as my base gun. It's completely stock. Goal is 550 fps. So I've started looking at the needed parts and I've got a few questions.

 

1. What's the advantage to a 90* seer over a 45*?

2. Am I better off swapping seers or doing a complete trigger swap? Why?

3. I see several different pistons out there with various designs. Some look like they have an air brake (like the laylax red piston), other's have a cup looking setup rather than a traditional o-ring piston head. Pro's and cons to these designs?

4. Also, I've seen that ASGI has their own parts, and then there's PolarStar. Who's stuff are they compatible with, laylax or PDI?

 

Any recommended guides, as the link in the original post of this thread is no longer valid?

[The Bushman]

Hey guys... I've for so long been an AEG guy, but have begun my venture into the bolt action world. That said... it's like being a noob again. While I've done simple repairs on existing guns, I've never done a from scratch build. From what I've gathered through skimming through this thread:

 

1. Stick with either PDI all the way or Laylax, but don't mix and match.

2. Laylax parts are near impossible to find now.

3. See earlier pages for PDI or Laylax builds

 

I'm starting with a JG BAR 10 as my base gun. It's completely stock. Goal is 550 fps. So I've started looking at the needed parts and I've got a few questions.

 

1. What's the advantage to a 90* seer over a 45*?

2. Am I better off swapping seers or doing a complete trigger swap? Why?

3. I see several different pistons out there with various designs. Some look like they have an air brake (like the laylax red piston), other's have a cup looking setup rather than a traditional o-ring piston head. Pro's and cons to these designs?

4. Also, I've seen that ASGI has their own parts, and then there's PolarStar. Who's stuff are they compatible with, laylax or PDI?

 

Any recommended guides, as the link in the original post of this thread is no longer valid?

 

1. The 90 degree system (like the zero trigger) means that the piston, is held in line with the cylinder when in the tensioned/cocked position. While the standard 45 degree sears make the piston sit at an angle, causing the spring tension to be exerted on the cylinder wall. This causes resistance when you are pushing the bolt forward and makes it harder to do so.

 

2. My advice is to get a 90 degree trigger mechanism and piston for a 550fps set up.

 

3. Pistons using an air brake, will not reach your target 550fps. To achieve that power, you must use the provided grub screw to replace the air brake. The air brake means there is less impact on the cyclinder head and reduces noise.

 

4. I do not know anything about ASGI or polarStar parts. I have a full laylax setup.

 

Good Hunting

[AnotherJesus]

90 degree piston set up, would tend towards a heavy trigger pull. See early CA M24s with big springs. The zero trigger complicates matters, and makes it dead easy to pull the trigger. Good you might think, personally I hate them. I know they say you should be surprised by the shot when you pull the trigger, but you should have a good idea of when it's coming. For my fingers, the zero trigger is too uncertain. Best way I can describe it, is like moving a spoon that's sitting in a pot of golden syrup. And the gun just randomly goes off. There's no 2 stage feel to it. Having said all this, you'd be hard pushed to find a zero trigger. Noobie's M-trig is a very clever design. If you can get hold of that, it might be worth going for. I think he has a recommended list of parts to use with it as well. It's a 90 system, but based around reliability above all else, and it uses a simpler mechanism, and takes advantage of better leverage than in the PDI and Laylax triggers. I personally use the stock trigger mech with Laylax sears. I've had no problems with this, and have been using it for a very long time at 500fps. I only use it, because I haven't seen the need to spend money on anything better yet. That and I don't like the way the Noobie trigger assembles, due to the 1 piece body and spring guide stopper.

 

If you're going to go for a flat headed piston (no air break) then I'd like to suggest that you taper the cylinder head. I don't know if PDI make a taper one, but I put my Laylax one on a lathe and worked at it. It'll increase the FPS, and improve the accuracy. You obviously can't have a tapered cylinder head and still use the air break. I think the air break is of more use at lower FPS, as the accuracy is plenty good enough anyway, and the noise reduction of the air break is of great use.

 

The piston heads, I'm not sure of the differences, but I will say this: If you get the Laylax piston, try and replace the o-ring for a fatter one.

[The Bushman]

I see what you mean about it (zero trigger) not being a 2 stage trigger mech, but the smooth movement and light trigger make up for it, imo. I see the target and know, there is a fair bit of movement, on the trigger. I slowly take it up and yes, be suprised by the exact timing of the shot (sometimes) but I think there is less trigger jerk/friction and in my mind that improves accuracy. I would like to point out I have small hands and this may help make the point firing, more natural, for me (with zero trigger). I guess the more you use it, the more predictable it becomes.

 

I agree with you, if it isn't broken, don't replace it. The sears rely on better fitting, to ensure they have durability and good trigger feel.

 

I could do with a new o-ring for my piston, anyone found a good source?

 

Good Hunting

[AnotherJesus]

I've got big hands. Not that I'd imagined that making any difference. But I see where you're coming from now you mention it.

 

As for O-rings, I work in a hardware shop. They cost me 12p and we sell them individually. I'm guessing most substantial towns will have some small hardware shop of a similar ilk you can pick them up from on an individual basis.

[scorch]

I don't find that I'm shocked at all by my zero trigger. I know exactly at what point it will fire, and I can tell just from laying my finger on the trigger if the rifle is cocked.

 

I would prefer if it were a 2 stage trigger though, or even if it had a safety.

 

Or even better, a choice of trigger shapes. I prefer the curved rifle triggers over the straighter match style triggers.

[TB-Stalker]

Hi, apologies if this has come up before, I had a quick look through the thread but couldn't find the answer.

 

I have a VSR10 and at the moment I have just installed the: PDI Bull Barrel, Bull Barrel Base and a Nineball hop rubber, everything else is stock.

 

The problem is that now I have to have the hop set to full for the BB to fly correctly, this is fine for now, but when the rest of my internals arrive and I use heavier BBs I will need the rifle to hop more. Any suggestions?

[AnotherJesus]

That's a pretty hard hop rubber. You get more effect from hop at higher FPS. So you'll be fine with it once you up the power.

[GingaNinga]

Hi All,

I have a couple questions. I have looked through this thread, but at 222 pages I don't have time to read them all.

 

I have a chance to get a used VSR-10 on a local auction site, but there is only 48 hours left...hence my rush and the lack of time to read through all of this thread.

 

So the VSR-10 Pro Sniper has almost every upgrade done to it...

 

Laylax Zero Trigger set

Ball bearing Spring Guide

Air Seal Damper Cylinder

Silent Damper

Teflon Cylinder

Outer Barrel (PDI I think)

 

He is looking for 60,000 yen (about 700US)

So my question...

 

I see talk about sears and the trigger set on here, but I am not sure if I would need them based on the 1J law in Japan. I can get the stock Pro Sniper for 16,000 yen, so that is a big difference if I don't need all those upgrades.

 

ON a stock VSR-10 Pro Sniper, what would be the bare essentials in term of needed upgrades for 1J use? Because of the low power, I would want to focus on distance and accuracy.

 

Thanks for your help.

[AnakChan]

Hahah...I was about to ask the same question but my VSR-10 is free . The combo I'm looking for, for my VSR is an all PDI upgrade :-

 

Bore up PDI Remington Kit

V-Trigger

Front Barrel L Tornado

Barrel base

Spacer

Silencer Adapter

 

What concerns me is that the front barrels fall under the VSR-10 section...does that mean it's not compatible with the Remington VSR-10 bore up?

[GingaNinga]

AnakChan,

At our power limits, are upgrades even needed?

[AnakChan]

I need to measure what my stock VSR power is but I would like to push it up as close as possible to 0.98J as possible. There used to be another member in TKO, Ronin, who had a very well built VSR but I don't know what parts he used to use. He's since been inactive (and his account killed). I can reach out to him to see how he's built his. Probably one of the most memorable kills from his setup was in Indoor Union where he was getting 3x50m headshots across the warehouse and no one spotted him as he was in the shadows. This was a few yrs back and I think since then the layout of Indoor Union has since changed.

 

So I think there's still some benefit to upgrading the VSR base even at JP's low J limits.

[farrasdevell]

dstole, for 1j(0.98) i'd buy a stock rifle, a sp100 (trim to tune) spring and try and lay my hands on a TK barrel, a selection of hop rubbers, firefly(soft)/ka/tm, piston damper pads, damper piston head and barrel stabilisers. Everything else i would leave.

Tinker with changing the hop rubbers to see which one gives the best result for you.

I always find buying pre upgraded rifles something of a flat and end up doing just as much work to make them shoot as i want them to.

[Silent Avenger]

Hey guys, I'm looking into making an upgraded VSR, and was told to ask here for some of the details.

 

Basically, I want a lot of part compatibility, so I'll need to use a VSR. However, I want a rifle which doesn't look like every other rifle out there, so I was thinking of trying to buy a wooden stock, preferably one a bit different, and ideally one with a thumb hole (that'd be amazing, as I learned to shoot with one). The internet seems to have 100s of these, but I haven't got an eye for quality so need some advice on which are the good ones. Or if anyone knows where I can get a good custom stock made that'd be great as well.

 

Cheers

[Kunlun]

Just wondering if the Laylax 6.03mm is a decent tightbore barrel? Would a PDI 6.05 be a big improvement? Or does anyone have any experience with the (new) Raven PDI 6.01mm TB?

[The Bushman]

Just wondering if the Laylax 6.03mm is a decent tightbore barrel? Would a PDI 6.05 be a big improvement? Or does anyone have any experience with the (new) Raven PDI 6.01mm TB?

 

This is an age old question, that has never really been answered in a scientific way. I have a 430mm Laylax 6.03mm and it gives me good results in my VSR, just found out my rangebook from last time out. We had limited time. Here is a copy of the page....

 

"0.40g BLASTER DEVILS

light breeze behind firer.

 

Prone, bipod

93 yards.........9.5 mil..... 50% 3/6

 

Stood, freehand

85 yards.........8 mil....... 33% 1/3

80 yards.........6 mil....... 40% 2/5

75 yards.........5 mil....... 60% 3/5

70 yards.........4 mil....... 80% 4/5

65 yards.........3.5 mil..... 80% 4/5

60 yards.........3 mil....... 80% 4/5

55 yards.........2.5 mil.....100% 5/5

50 yards.........2 mil.......100% 5/5

45 yards.........1.5 mil.....100% 5/5

40 yards.........1 mil.......100% 5/5"

 

The target was an A1 piece of paper.

The firer had never fired the rifle before (I tended to the target and notebook).

All ranges measured with Bushnell laser rangefinder +/- 1 yard.

The terrain made it impossible to shoot from further than 93 yards, or else we would have fired out to the elusive 100 yards.

This rifle is only around 485fps (with 0.20g). It has the firefly hard hop rubber.

 

I also have a 6.05mm PDI 554mm, in my m40a1 gas rifle. That also performs well on an A1 target with 0.40g. However, it is very different arrangement (being an expanding gas) and much higher powered (570fps). I use a nineball rubber in the m40a1, making it even harder to compare the 2 setups.

 

Here it is on the range...

83 yards vs mansized target.

 

I guess, I should make a comparison video with both platforms side by side.

 

To be honest, I think the Raven barrels look worth a punt, as very cheap.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Good Hunting

[TriX]

Hi guys!

 

I've just fitted a new PDI palsonite HD cylinder in my vsr (pro, no gspec), it currently has following parts:

 

Laylax 6.03mm barrel

PDI Palsonite HD cylinder set (cylinder, piston, reinforced cylinder head, spring guide)

PDI first sear

PDI second sear

PDI set pin

Firefly hard hopup rubber

 

Now im looking for a spring to reach about 500 fps with 0.20g (maximum in Belgium).

What spring would be good? I need a 11mm inner diameter spring.

 

Thnx alot!

 

Grtz,

TriX

[scorch]

I would say SP150, but I don't think a Laylax spring will be much good in a PDI cylinder.

[TriX]

is there a laylax spring in 11mm inner diameter?

 

I've just ordered a 13mm/11mm PDI 280 spring, if it's just over 500 fps I can still cut a small piece off.

Let hope I get it before the weekendskirm ^^

[Extraordinaire]

Has anyone heard anything about the Masamune Teflon Cylinder? Apparently it's a new item at ASGI for $80. There are also some VSR-10 inner barrels by the same company.

 

I'm thinking about trying the teflon cylinder, as I have heard some mixed things about the LayLax one being a drop-in replacement.

[Capn' Nukem]

Right folks, recently bought VSR gspec (marui) and having a few issues...

 

After reading this thread (took me bloody ages) I've done the Hop shimming and wrapping mods, polished the barrel, cleaned the bucking and ensured there is perfect compression in the cylinder and through the barrel and hop.

 

*edit* Also made a full length barrel spacer and foam filled the stock

 

After all these mods and I'm getting a 10" square sized grouping at a measured 14 metres, no wind with blaster .25s (not the best BBs but still) from a rested prone position. rifle supported on a sandbag.

 

Obviously there is something wrong somewhere, I'm pretty familiar with the vsr hop unit and very sure I've put it together all ok, so I don't have a clue what's wrong. Any ideas guys?

 

 

 

While I'm here, I'm after a ~350fps setup and have a laylax barrel and 110 spring on order. What hop bucking would be best to use at this fps? I'm thinkig it's between the Nineball and the stock bucking? Reading this thread has given me a good idea of what I would want for a 500fps setup but not for the power level I'm after.

 

Thanks for your help

[Extraordinaire]

Hey Capn', I'm not sure what the accuracy issue could be, as I haven't really gotten into testing my VSR-10 out. I've just been upgrading it recently. Though, if I do have similar issues, I sure hope someone here could help!

 

As for the hop up bucking question, I would recommend a Firefly Soft Type Hop Up Bucking. I currently have a Nineball in my VSR-10 because I ripped my previous Firefly bucking (Soft type, but was pushing 450+ FPS. D'oh!).

 

While it was working, the Firefly bucking boosted performance noticeably when compared to my Nineball bucking.

[The Bushman]

After all these mods and I'm getting a 10" square sized grouping at a measured 14 metres, no wind with blaster .25s (not the best BBs but still) from a rested prone position. rifle supported on a sandbag.

 

While I'm here, I'm after a ~350fps setup and have a laylax barrel and 110 spring on order. What hop bucking would be best to use at this fps? I'm thinkig it's between the Nineball and the stock bucking?

Thanks for your help

 

I have the Firefly hard in a 370fps BAR10 and it gives good results. The soft version should be good for a 350fps setup. I found the firefly gave me more backspin than the regular bucking.

 

I have the nineball in a converted tanaka, simply as the firefly doesn't give good results, due to the different shaped hop plunger.

 

I suggest you need heavier pellets, once your barrel arrives, SGM 0.29g would give you no doubt that your performance issues are not down to light/inferior pellets.

 

Have you wrapped the section of hop rubber that is pushed down? If so, it may be altering the hop spin implied to the pellets.

 

Good Hunting