tome Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 Having owned both the pax and the bgs kits i'd go with the pax just for simplcity of installation. The chance of having the hop misaligned to the barrel is practically none for the pax kit, where as with the bcs rubbers i was always a bit wary when installing. With the original aics hop rubbers it seems to be a bit of a lottery, when i got mine 2nd hand it wasn't performing to well so i stripped it, cleaned it and put it all back together......... 35mm, 10 shot groups with no flyers at 6.5 meters, time after time. I've kept it was my spare in case the pax unit breaks The price difference isn't huge, but to use the pax hop you'll need to have a "normal" hop cut on your dees barrel, rather than the Tanaka style hop cut Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted January 29, 2008 Report Share Posted January 29, 2008 Well, I have not seen a BGS hop kit myself, but must say the 2ROY kit is worth the cash. I have trialled FIREFLY (hard) and NINEBALL rubbers in it. As 8ZERO8 said, the nineball is far better suited to this application and gets flatter trajectory and range. I bought the kits from him and recommend him 100% to anyone struggling to get the VSR conversion here in the UK. Tests have been limited so far due to wind and it getting dark too early (here in the UK), but it did outshoot the M14 at 50m (with the firefly hop). Although the moonlighter scope did help in the half light of dusk. I am off into the field for 2 days of target practice/tinkering this coming weekend. I'll post more info then. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Trasher Posted January 30, 2008 Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 Bushman, I'd be very interested in an in-depth review! The hopup is the main thing keeping me from buying a gas rifle. Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted January 30, 2008 Report Share Posted January 30, 2008 I'll write more, once I return from 3 days in the field testing it, this coming weekend. However, it is forcast to be 0-4C during the day with winds upto 31mph predicted, so I am unsure how worthwhile the tests will be, as I don't really aim to use the m40a1 in such unfavourable conditions. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
ejs Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 Hello. Recently I've made my first custom nozzles. 34,5mm long, CNC, steel made. I'm searching for a person who would review one for me. PM. Of course the reviewed nozzle is free. I prefer reviewers from EU. regards ejs Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted February 3, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 PM sent. Link to post Share on other sites
ejs Posted February 3, 2008 Report Share Posted February 3, 2008 ok, The Chef will be reviewer. Please do not send me more PMs. Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted February 4, 2008 Report Share Posted February 4, 2008 Ok got back from the weekend and the weather forcast was pretty close. This was the scene on day 1 and 2... We did test fire on day 2 but the thermometer was on zero (freezing) and results were ok, however, the magazine full of green gas struggled to provide stable firing velocity and on the second half of the magazine lost power. We did use heat pads and our own body temperature to try to stabalise the gas magazines and cans, but it was not that effective. Day 3 was better as much of the snow had begun to melt and temperature was recorded at 3C. Wind was pretty strong and stopped us from having a serious test. However, I mananged to hit a stationary man at a measured 60m distance (the black bin bag target, above the blue one, on the picture below) with 8 out of 11 shots. This appeared to be an average and not an exceptional piece of shooting, as several 6mm hunters had a go. I was stood unsupported (freehand) for this and it was obviously prone to my own errors. I was aiming straight at the guys back and most of the shots hit very close to where I aimed (wind took them left). I used 0.28g GUARDER and felt it was not worth wasting my limited supply of SGM 0.29g . The Guarders worked well and gave no fliers, the only ones that missed were by an inch or 2. I also used KSC 0.30g PERFECT BB's but found they did not give very good results compared. I had PDI 6.05mm barrel (554mm) and nineball rubber fitted. The pellets were still rising at the 60m target and certainly had amazing range which 100% beats the original hop system. All in all this has proven to make the TANAKA series a far more viable gaming system that could well be more practical if you want to run a super high powered rifle compared to spring systems. NB: this m40a1 had the PCS set for maximum power. I decided not to take the chronograph but suggest it was still pulling 550fps+ Hope that helps. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
thewallhitme Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 can someone point me in the direction of a PCS bolt for an AICS? Link to post Share on other sites
tome Posted February 7, 2008 Report Share Posted February 7, 2008 I know this has probably been asked many many times but......... is there anyone out there that uses the long AICS mags who doesn't have a problem with light striking on the first few shots? If so what parts are you using??!!! Both my mags have a problem when filled and then left to sit for a while (5-10 mins or so) at room temperature. This is a problem since most of the time when gaming i'm not firing, and when i need to fire it light strikes like a biatch. Any info would be gratefully received Also, would a palmers regulator setup solve the light strike problem? Cheers Tom Link to post Share on other sites
charliethegreat Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 I know this has probably been asked many many times but......... is there anyone out there that uses the long AICS mags who doesn't have a problem with light striking on the first few shots? If so what parts are you using??!!! Both my mags have a problem when filled and then left to sit for a while (5-10 mins or so) at room temperature. This is a problem since most of the time when gaming i'm not firing, and when i need to fire it light strikes like a biatch. Any info would be gratefully received Also, would a palmers regulator setup solve the light strike problem? Cheers Tom the g&g powerpack is essential, try to get hold of some of the km internals as well. I'm upgrading to co2/hpa in the next couple of weeks (got the kit) I have had exactly the same problem as you, and I figure changing to hpa is the only way out of huge differences in elevation over 50m or so. the building hpa / co2 kit thread on sniping havens main page will help charlie Link to post Share on other sites
tome Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Thanks Charlie, I've got one mag with a KA plunger set an I'm using a KA striker spring. This has helped it to only light strike on the first 3-5 rather than the first 10 shots but that's sadly still the first 3-5 If you already have the parts for CO2/HPA i'll wait for your results though if i choose that route i'll be going CO2 caplet as there's nowhere for me to fill up HPA or CO2 in my local area Link to post Share on other sites
tunabreath Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 I have a Pax set (plunger, knock arm, striker spring) in my M40 and long mag, no problems whatsoever. I also have the CNC mag body, if that has anything to do with it. Link to post Share on other sites
tome Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Thanks tunabreath. What was the severity of the light striking problems before you put those parts in? also what ambient temp do you play in? Link to post Share on other sites
tunabreath Posted February 10, 2008 Report Share Posted February 10, 2008 Actually, none. The mag was completely new, the rifle was not. I only recently received it, so all testing so far has been in rather cold temperatures to say the least (we just had a -40 degree cold snap , suffice to say, I didn't get much done there). The Pax set was more of a pre-emptive upgrade. I'd noticed that the plate which the plunger replaces was quite worn after only a few shots, despite the mag being completely new. Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Just a quick update on the extended nozzles being made by EJS. Initial Impressions: Very well made. Good solid steel construction which is well turned. Correct 6.5mm bolt face diameter which provided a good set into the bolt face (no glue required on this one). Nice step down to a 5.9mm nozzle end which gave a fantastic gas seal on my BGS hop rubber. It was a bit tight to start with but eased up after a few shots and the obgligatory drop of lube. Internal bore of 4.5mm is the same as an unrestricted Tanaka nozzle so should deliver top power (sorry, didnt crono any shots). My last nozzle of the same bore easily reached 500fps on green gas. No feeding issues with the mags that went through it on Sunday. Does exactly what it says on the tin. It will be staying in my Kar98. I have passed on my tweaks to Lucas who will easily be able to accomodate. All round thumbs up from me. Link to post Share on other sites
ejs Posted February 13, 2008 Report Share Posted February 13, 2008 I must add that TheChef has become the official distributor of these nozzles. Link to post Share on other sites
tome Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 Actually, none. The mag was completely new, the rifle was not. I only recently received it, so all testing so far has been in rather cold temperatures to say the least (we just had a -40 degree cold snap , suffice to say, I didn't get much done there). The Pax set was more of a pre-emptive upgrade. I'd noticed that the plate which the plunger replaces was quite worn after only a few shots, despite the mag being completely new. Thanks Tunabreath. What you might find is that the light striking will occur when the temperatures get a bit more temperate What i think happens is that the on my one, the first few shots will cool the mag enough to reduce the vapor pressure to a point where the striker is able to fully open the valve again. I had an idea while thinking of cheap ways to fix the problem. A quick question first. Do people get light striking with the standard m700 mags? (is the short ones). If not then the lightstriking may have something to do with the larger gas capacity of the long mags. So supposing that short mags don't suffer from lightstriking then placing something solid into the gas resevoir of the mag to reduce the gas capacity may be a very cheap way to solve the problem Link to post Share on other sites
magictomcat Posted February 15, 2008 Report Share Posted February 15, 2008 its a problem of pressure not capacity... Just use a stronger spring Link to post Share on other sites
tome Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 I'm already using a KA spring. Is there a stronger one? Also my bolt jammed yesterday and i can't get it out to look at it!!!. The cocking lever is loose but can't move far enough up to allow me to take the bolt out. Has anyone else had this problem? How do i get the bolt back out Link to post Share on other sites
pace Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 hi guys i've had search through here and cant seem to find the answer, I've got an old skool tanaka m700 bolt, no PCS or anything like that. The obvious problem with this is the nozzle is is the old short one. Now i'm not certain how i change the nozzle for a longer one, do i have to completely take the bolt apart or does it pull out? any help would be great. thanks Link to post Share on other sites
tome Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 Too late to edit. I managed to get the bolt out and found that the front part of the cocking peice had snapped off!! Looks like it really was that cold yesterday at UA I'm looking to replace it with a g&g steel cocking peice http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=8444 I've read on airsoft canada that one of the members couldn't get this to work his AICS. Has anyone else tried this on their AICS? I also want to try a different cocking lever http://www.dentrinityshop.com/pr_details.jsp?pid=8703 has anyone installed one of these on their AICS? I'm aware that the AICS is supposed to be the normal m700 but in a AI chassis, so in theory all these parts shoould fit, but from reading around it seems the AICS is different enough in some places that it won't accept some pieces. Cheers Tome Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted February 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 Pace, they just pull out of the bolt face. no need to take it apart. Tome, I used a G&G cocking peice in my AICS (when I had it), worked perfectly and is still going strong with the new owner. Link to post Share on other sites
tome Posted February 17, 2008 Report Share Posted February 17, 2008 Thanks chef This'll get my beloved AICS back into action in no time Link to post Share on other sites
tome Posted February 18, 2008 Report Share Posted February 18, 2008 Pace, they just pull out of the bolt face. no need to take it apart. Tome, I used a G&G cocking peice in my AICS (when I had it), worked perfectly and is still going strong with the new owner. Chef - i just read that the cocking piece that comes in the "power pack" and the one sold just by itself are different!! Which one did you have? Cheers Link to post Share on other sites
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