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HELP! USPc SD slide install PROBLEMS! PLEASE!


dhunt2299

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alright, so I'm used to taking apart glocks and upgrading. EASY. Now I have an SD slide and barrel set and I ran into a HUGE road block.

 

I have the chamber installed, but now that I am putting together the inner/outer barrel I have a problem.

 

I'm trying to slide this metal piece through. It was a *badgeress* to get out, and now that I want to put it in it just slides in one way and out the other. :-(

 

IMG_1719.jpg

 

also, I am wondering if the inner barrel needs to be in a certain distance. Which one of these is right?

 

IMG_1720.jpg

IMG_1721.jpg

 

and lastly, the set came with this small piece that goes underneath the spring in the outer barrel. Should I use it, or the one that was on the stock gun?

 

IMG_1722.jpg

 

I appreciate everyone's help. THANK YOU!!!!!

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You need to align the inner barrel/hop-up with the hole in the front of the outer barrel in order for that pin to fit in and be tight. That pin is what retains the inner barrel unit with the outer barrel. The inner barrel unit should be in further, like in your second picture of it. Look through the hole in the outer barrel and see that the inner barrel unit is lined up with it. I'm pretty sure the SD kit comes with it's own pin, so make sure you are using that.

 

The brass SD parts that make up the spring loaded portion of the barrel are what you should use. The KSC one might give you issues as I think it's shorter (it's been a year since I installed the kit on my USPC).

 

Let me know if this is of any help. Best of luck.

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I have the SD slide on my USPc took a lot of fitting to get it smooth including filling the chamber to fit.

 

As to the fitting of the inner barrell I ended up using a mix of stock and SD parts, cannot remember exactly which bit's I used but I can check from home later if no one else comes up with a fix.

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I've had no problems with my SD set-up, certainly no filing. All I did was to do a bit of slide racking with a spot of heavy motor oil on the inside surface of the top of the slide where the front edge of the chamber can jam.

Anyway... this first pic show how everything is lined up and what basically goes where.

Note the cut-outs in the circled parts which correspond to the profile of the pins.

breechvn4.jpg

 

Here in the second pic you see the spring plunger plug/cap just before you insert the locking pin. Now in SD's wisdom they did not supply me with a pin so I had to make myself one out of a piece of wire. To make it lock, and hold the plug tight, I put a slight bend in it so that the apex butts up against the plug and holds it secure. Obviously if the apex is reversed it will not old the plug in place simply by way of the design of the pin.

 

Also to hold the main locking pin in place just put a tiny drop of Super Glue(Cyanoacrylate) on the end of the pin and push into place. This will hold it tight but can be easily removed with a simple tap from a screwdriver or nail.

breech2oe3.jpg

 

This last photo clearly shows which way the spring plunger plug should be orientated i.e. the pin cut-out should be rearward.

breech3vu6.jpg

 

So, to re-cap, and has been mentioned, your second photo is correct as far as the hop unit/inner barrel in the outer barrel. Also make special note of the orientation of the red circled parts as this is very important.

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What you have done so far is totally correct.

The part which I describe as the 'plug' does exactly the same thing except SD as machined the cut-out so it goes around the entire circumference on it's later models. This means you don't have to specifically orientate the part to the rear but can just plonk it in any old way.

Only use the SD plunger, spring and plug and put the other stock parts in your spares box.

If your having trouble putting in the main locking pin in, that holds the inner barrel and hop in place, then it may be a case that one end is slightly flared(or damaged) so you'll need to reverse it. If your having trouble with both ends of the pin then it wouldn't hurt to chamfer off the edges with some light file work.

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ok I don't think the plunger or any of the spring/cap is the issue. It's the main locking pin. now if I put my fingers on the side of the outer barrel to hold the pin in place, the inner barrel says in like it should. But if I tip the barrel to one side the pin just slides out. What's wrong here? do I just need to superglue that thing in there? Thanks to tommy and everyone else for working with me on this.

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Your barrel collar that retains the inner barrel unit (part #12) looks OK, which was what I would have guessed the problem would be.

 

Now that you mention you are using the stock outer barrel pin (part #13), I think that is where your issue is. When I got my SD kit long ago, it came with it's own pin which was larger in diameter. It should be a tight enough fit without the barrel unit in place.

 

Just about all of the SD kit's components are proprietary, you are better off using them where you can.

 

I don't know why you don't have an outer barrel pin from your SD kit, it could be designed to use the stock one as yours looks like a newer generation model or something (mine was like Tommy's in terms of the spring retention system's components). But my money is on you either lost it, or SD forgot to include one (which is more likely).

 

If you have any means of measuring the hole (calipers or a good ruler), I might have a pin around that would be a better fit. There is always McMaster-Carr as well. Or you could try bending your pin like Tommy did with his spring retention system.

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If you've got a scrap jewellers screwdriver, in about 1.8mm diam, then chop it up with a Dremel and use the blade shaft as a new pin.

Alternatively go to your local model shop, taking the outer barrel with you, and get yourself some rod of the correct friction fit size, or if it is a drop fit just do my 'small dab of superglue' fix.

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alright guys, here's the deal. I'm at school so I have no tools or anything with me. I really don't have any real way to accurately measure how large the bolt needs to be so I was wondering if anyone would be willing to put together/fix the barrel assembly (for a small fee of course) Please let me know if anyone would be willing to take up this task and I really don't feel like messing up a $130 kit. Thanks so much.

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But all you have to do is go to the model shop and say, 'have you got any steel/brass rod that is a snug fit in this hole, or near fit?'. Then take it home and wire snip it to length(or Dremel) or do the old screwdriver method. It's all done by eye and only one half blind eye is needed.

This is the easiest bodge in the world!

If you don't want to spend anything then try wire coat hangers, brazing wire, barb wire wire, grill from an oven - anything.

 

p.s. I would do it but I think it might be a bit uneconomical to send it to Italy.

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If you can tap the pin with a mallet it should get shorter and thicker.

Thats about the only quick fix I know of.

They use it in real gunsmithing (cold-forging I think)...It will probably take a while though!

I had the opposite problem, the pin on my slide way absurdly tight!

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