 Radius
rear of Upper disconnector #37 Polish top of the Catch for
the Magazine valve plate #36 (in fact as you should be taking
this out to do it, de-burr the slot too).
If you are fitting the Full Auto Prokiller slide for the F3.9
(1st gen), you can stop now. The F3.9" style slide was one
of the easiest slides to fit, although I could not obtain as smooth
an operation as with the Semi Auto only slides due to the additional
mechanics of the FA mechanism. When fitting a slide for the semi
auto guns the following points should also be noted if you want
to obtain "Smooth Heaven".
 Chamfer
and polish the step where chamber cover touches breech face there
is a step between the aluminium and brass blowback piece, radius
the aluminium so that it contours to the brass thus smoothing
the path upon going into battery (the F3.9's barrel is in the
'dropped' position, so this part does not apply as there is no
friction). |
 Inner
slide locking lugs as shown above thumb in photo - smooth, this
can stop the wear of the O.E. WA barrel hood (see above notes).
 Also
helps to stop the back edge of the barrel hood (a.k.a. Outer chamber
cover) catching on the slides return into battery.
De- burr inner slide on both internal sides, where grooves have
been cut, this has hardly been needed to be done on the latest
PGC and SD slides at all as they have came very smoothly finished
internally already. |
Slide
and barrel crown fit It's very rare, but on the odd occasion,
okay on 2 slides, I have noticed that the hole in the front of the
slide that the barrel protrudes through is actually too tight. Good!
this means that it can be slowly opened up to give the desired tolerance
fit required.
Something
round, with a diameter just under that of the hole should be wrapped
in 800 grade wet and dry, (or finer), then slowly rotated in the hole
opening it up evenly. Remember to stop frequently, clean and check
for fitment with the outer barrel as it is crucial not to go too far
and ruin this "extra" that is sadly not present of all of
the slides. The end result should be a sliding fit, but with no tight
spots. N.B.White paper used with WA slide for clarity in photo.
Restricted
blowback units As standard, the WA guns that come with ABS slides,
have the restricted blowback unit fitted to restrict (duh!) the amount
of blowback force, as obviously a lighter slide needs less gas pressure
to propel it compared to a heavy weight slide.
e.g. I fitted
a metal slide (heavier than ABS) to my F3.9. I then removed the restricting
washer 138 / Rocket valve 83 / O ring 88 / Blowback inner rear unit
85 (found on the F3.9/3.9 ABS slides maybe others too) and put in
replacement parts for the normal SV 5 HW slide i.e. Rocket valve 83
/ Rocket valve rubber ring 86 / O ring 88 (as I did not trust the
original one that jammed)/ Blowback inner rear unit 85 (this last
one has a different part number to the F3.9/3.9 despite being nearly
identical to look at (very slightly different size vent hole).
This action
ensures that I am getting the power delivered to the blowback cycle
that equals that of the OE WA HW original. That said, when replacement
parts have not been available, I have on request left the blowback
unit as is, with not much noticeable difference. Although when asked,
"Does the gun kick more and cycle faster with the unrestricted
unit?" .......I think so :-)
Loading
Nozzle I always say, mate the slide to the frame rails by filing
the slide grooves, but here is one instance where I will "cheat"
as access is near impossible. The two wings on the loading nozzle,
as indicated by the pen tip, can sometimes be just that little bit
too snug in the slide to allow free movement.
The test is
that it should spring freely back into the blowback chamber when released,
(after assembly in to the slide of course, and doing this without
the blowback O-ring Part 88 will ensure that if any resistance is
being felt, it is that of the Loading nozzle). If it doesn't slide
back, or it sticks - with a very fine file or abrasive paper on a
flat surface, you just want to "kiss" the outer sides of
these two wings so that it is free to move. Approximately 0.5mm is
about the combined total that I have had to remove from both sides
on occasion. I cannot stress enough, do not go mad with your file
here, or you will run into problems.
Stronger Recoil spring In an ideal world, as a rule of thumb,
you should use the heaviest recoil spring possible, which does not
interfere with the pistol functioning.
The spring
tension requirement is affected by many factors, including the gas
used, grip pressure, ambient temperature, slide to frame friction,
pistol type etc.
Depending
on outside temperature and what gas you use, e.g. for a more potent
gas, you *may* want a stronger recoil spring if you are worried about
the slide battering the frame, (of course a stronger recoil spring
would slam the slide forward with more force too, Newton's law of
reaction!!). I have the stronger recoil springs to try, but have not
fitted them as yet and from what I have seen and have tested over
the years I am not sure if they ever will be needed. If the temperature
in the UK was around 30'C, I may have done it by now ^_-
You see, this
is the one area that my "jury" is still out on - the need
for a stronger recoil spring. I have several in a parts box, and never
have I even felt the need to try one on my SV's.
SightsThis
can be one of the surprisingly problematic areas, in that a bodge
here can prove very costly in the cosmetic stakes especially when
using a black slide.
Front
sight - dovetail Do you file the dovetail in the slide or file
the front sight (base)? To be honest, I have done both/either. Here's
why. The real SVI has a dovetail size of .300"x.060"x60'
( ' = degrees) Working in mm this is 7.5mmx1.4mmx60'
The Western
Arms piece uses a size of 7.3mmx1.8mmx70' according to my measurements.
(Please note, this FS was taken from a 5" Railed, but WA have
made different types and sizes, so check carefully).
The figures
refer to width of dovetail (chisel edge to chisel edge) x height of
sight base x angle of dovetail. the WA base has a much steeper cut.
It's very
hard to get exact measurements, so be sure to allow some room for
error. Alas it has been my experience that the WA and aftermarket
slide manufacturers don't all stick to the same exact angles/dimensions
(but we are talking toys after all) - one of the standardised real-steel
dovetail dimensions and angles would be nice, although they are damn
near close.
Getting
the angles to mate is essential for a larger surface area of tight
fitment thus giving a more secure fit.
It's not always
the case that the dovetail cut out on the slide is going to match
up with the WA OE front sight (which can themselves have different
size bases), or for that matter an aftermarket sight. You can do a
couple of things or combine.
File the slide dovetail slot to fit the WA sight, i.e. get yourself
some needle files, or better still dedicated dovetail cutter with
safe sides, carefully open up the slot, changing the angle if necessary,
but at the same time keeping the new angle consistent. In an ideal
world, you would just buy the correct size cutter and mount it in
a milling machine.
With a black
finished slide, you don't really want to be removing that finish from
any visible area of the slide, which is why in some instances it is
just plain common sense to file the front sight supplied, thus if
a mistake is made, at least the cost will not be prohibitive and to
be honest - it can be easier! Filing the dovetail on the front sight
base and the bottom of the base, may also be necessary.
I try not
to file anything that "shows" externally, so as not to compromise
the external cosmetics.
The hard part is matching the dovetail angle to the cut out, the closer
the match and the tolerance, the better the fit. . There doesn't appear
to be a hard and fast rule even when working with the same make of
slides.
Making
sure the front sight stays put Once the fit is found to be satisfactory,
you may also want to add something for additional security - (I always
do). Western Arms themselves are now doing something additional with
their current batch of slides. What this actually is turns out to
be is a 3mm hole that is drilled through (from the top) in the middle
of the dovetail slot. You slide the front sight in, centre it then
turn the slide upside down and apply a tiny blob of superglue to the
hole, being careful not to overfill it. When it set, the sight is
firmly fixed in place with no externally visible signs of glue - simple
:-) WA have gone a little step further and there is in fact a corresponding
indentation on the underside of the current batch of front sights
- this helps the superglue to key in for extra security. I have used
superglue in the past, and as good as it is, like all great products
it has a flaw. Shock.
Superglue
by it's nature is brittle (there are rubberised cyanoacrylates) and
therefore is not the best to gap fill in this instance although I
have fitted many front sight without issue, for my own piece of mind,
I have now switched to Loctite 270 studlock to make sure they never
vibrate out, and this also gives me a much more reassuring air knowing
that the sight will need plenty of force before it ever moves.
Why 270? I
did use Loctite 243 (oil tolerant medium strength), to start with
but, I did have an instance in CQB where my front sight was knocked
free whilst in the holster or during the draw - (scuffle inside a
building in complete darkness). I found said sight and vowed to go
up a notch ^_-
270 - the
dangers. When fitting a Heinie replacement front sight to my real
SVI, I took advice and was told that this was the one to use. I was
cautioned at the time to be very quick as with a curing time of under
15mins you need to get it into place damn fast. Don't take my word.
Read the label. Now that was with steel, which is much harder to force
the sight into the dovetail, but the trouble with Aluminium and its
associated properties is that the "strength factor/cure time"
changes, so although it is easier to get the front sight into position
- you have less time to work with it.
The method
I use is to fit the front sight to the metal slide, remove it degrease
the parts to be fitted and refit with the 270 applied which during
assembly will act as a lubricant. Wipe free any excess.
If you are
cautious about doing it then either use the current WA method for
the plastic slide or just hope that precise fitting will hold out
(which it may).
After market
front sights as others have stated above can have all manner (grub
screw/roll pins) methods of additional security.
Rear sight - Bomar/Novak style Pretty much the same fitting
rules apply, although there is no need for the adhesive sealant on
the actual dovetail/slot itself as the screws/screw that holds the
blowback mechanism in place will stop any movement. Having said that
I do use Loctite 243 on these screws.
Cosmetics:
Option to polish 'flatsides' if silver with very fine abrasive pad
along length of slide to get "grain lines" on sides of slide.
The test
of a good slide fitment is to hold the gun with the muzzle pointing
into the air, pull back the slide and at various places along its
travel, loosen your grip on the slide very gently and slowing its
travel with your hand, and see if it sticks as it returns to battery.
It should not stop.
Going too far/making an
error can ruin your gun -so take care, and go easy. Better to have
a gun that works than trying to "gild the lily". Don't forget
to relube where necessary.
Good Luck!
Matthew
Dean (aka MobiusStrip)
Some examples
of metal slides that I have fitted to SV's:
SCW Bulldog - Infinity based, uses SD 4.3" Black metal slide
SVI pair
- 5" Railed using SD Caspian slide and SVI Hybrid using custom
milled SD 5" Infinity slide
SVI Prokiller 2000 fitted with 6" barrel unit and PGC silver
slide
SVI Prokiller Mark 2 fitted with 10.5" barrel (F10) and PGC 1st
generation F3.9 Metal slide with revised brass blowback chamber
Hybrid Xcelerator - Hybrid top end and controls mounted to Xcelerator
frame. Slide is custom milled SD 5" unit.
