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Reviews
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Date of last review
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4
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12655
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15/2/10
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Recommended By
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Average Price
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Average Rating
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100% of reviewers
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£300.00
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9.0
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Pissin' people off one post at a time
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Ranger_Captain
Pissin' people off one post at a time
Registered: July 2005
Location: West Point, New York
Posts: 1,229
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Review Date: 18/6/08
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Would you recommend the product? Yes |
Price you paid?: None indicated
| Rating: 9
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Positive aspects of the product (pros):
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Wood/Steel, Great Power, Great Range, 7mm Gearbox, Looks Great
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Cons:
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Heavy, Some wiggle, Magazine Wiggle, Battery is awkward to install
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Classic Army SLR-105 Wood/Steel Version
Introduction
Classic Army is still possibly one of the most controversial airsoft gun companies. You either love them or hate them or think they’re okay. I won’t comment on whether or not I think they’re the best or the worst, but I will say that they do make quality guns. Case in point: the SLR-105 Wood/Steel version.
Of all the AK74 replica’s I’ve encountered, which includes custom kits for TM AK47’s, ICS AK74 (the closest runner up), VFC AK74s (which are not all that great IMO) and even the new TM AK74M, I still find that this replica, specifically the Wood and steel version of the SLR-105 is the one of the best in both performance and replica value. The externals are great and I’ve heard more than one R/S gun collector describe it as, “An AK74 converted to shoot airsoft bb’s.”
I’m doing this review for the SLR a bit late after actually getting it (about a year) but I had taken enough early notes on it to get an effective review.
Real Steel History
*Taken from Modern Firearms a.k.a. world.guns.ru
AK74:
“Basically, the small-caliber Kalashnikov assault rifle, officially adopted by the Soviet Army in 1974 as the "5.45mm Avtomat Kalashnikova, obraztsa 1974 goda (AK-74)", was no more than the older AKM, re-chambered for a new round, with very minor modifications. The most visible modification is the large and effective muzzle brake, which further reduces already moderate recoil of the new round, and improves the controllability of the rifle in the full automatic mode. Rear sight, while being of the same old design, was accordingly recalibrated for the new cartridge with much flatter trajectory. The wooden buttstock was slightly lightened by two oval cuts on both sides. The pistol grip was made from plastic, and the forend initially was made from wood. The stamped steel magazines were replaced by the plastic magazines of the very distinctive red-brown color. The airborne version of the new rifle, AKS-74, also introduced a new pattern of the folding butt. This was made from stamped steel, and folded to the left side of the receiver instead of being folded down on the 7.62mm AKMS, and was of more comfortable and robust construction. Otherwise the AK-74 retained all features and construction of the AKM/AKMS, and, surprisingly, the key deficiencies of the AKM were not cured in this improved version. For example, AK-74 retained the same less than ideal safety - selector lever, and the same crude sights. Like the AKM, the AK-74 can be fitted with special silencer (requires subsonic ammunition) or the 40mm underbarrel grenade launcher GP-25 or GP-30 (improved and lightened model).”
Specifically though the SLR-105 is based off of the realsteel by the same name imported by Arsenal of Las Vegas, that was in almost every way the same as a 1970-80 AK74 other than altered trademarks and registration numbers for legal US purchase and sale and was also limited to semi-automatic fire only. Unfortunately though, the SLR-105 is no longer imported which means, short of finding a preban version in the US, this is about as close as you can get to one.
First Impressions
I picked up the SLR-105 from Hot Spot Airsoft as an impulse buy during one of their sales. I believe it was about $400.00 w/ a 8.4v 3300 mAh battery, which by all accounts, prior to the lower in Classic Army prices, is pretty good given what the SLR is.
It comes in a normal CA Styrofoam/cardboard box. The gun includes a loading rod, cleaning rod, single bakelite high cap, and a forward sight adjustment tool which is steel as well.
As just a side note I had actually held this particular SLR at the store on previous visits and had until that point never been able to justify a $500-$550 purchase for an AK (their not usually my favorite type of replica) but at $400.00 w/ a battery I couldn’t refuse.
Since I picked this up at a store my first impressions where somewhat rushed but I have to say, even just holding it above the glass cases it definitely had “wow” factor. It’s big and heavy (which are pluses to me) and feels very solid.
Appearance
This version of the SLR sports wood (I don’t know what type) grips and stock and full steel upper and lower receiver, barrel, gas tube, and basically everything else. I was hard pressed to find anything, short of the gearbox, NOT steel on this gun but so far I’ve found it to only be the trigger guard, butt plate, and, although it might just be a higher polished steel, the flash hider might just be normal “metal.”
Getting this out of the way, yes it has Arsenal trademarks. They read, starting on the left side from the fore end:
Model SLR 105
Cal. 6 mm
Then farther down it reads:
Aarsenal LAS VEGAS, NEV, U.S.A.
On the opposite side there are no markings save the fire selector which, accurately, are the Russian character designations of “safe” “auto” “single.”
Continuing with feel, the steel is fairly rough on the upper receiver, barrel, and faux gas tube, and the lower receiver is very smooth steel. Mold lines seem to be nonexistent on this gun with an exception to a small one around the inside wall of the magwell. Personally, I think this is really a stamp line as this gun’s externals being stamp pressed would make more sense then a forged steel receiver (even the real AK74’s aren’t forged.)
Now on the subject of the wood. Some people really love the way the wood looks, some think it’s horrible. I’m in the middle. I don’t think it’s exceptional, I don’t think it’s horrible, I think for an airsoft gun it’s all you really need. It looks, well like wood, it feels like wood, when you tap it, it sounds like wood, and, despite various complaints, it is very solid (it’s not balsa after all).
For looks, I give this rifle a solid 9, the missing point being only the shininess of the lower receiver.
Look Grade: 9/10
Feel/Aesthetic
Although I’ve never held a real steel AK74, I have held a pre-ban AK47 and WASR-10’s and I have to say this felt dead on. Weight is about the same at 3.2 Kg (whereas the real steel is 3.3 unloaded, 3.6 loaded) and, with the battery loaded, is fairly balanced although just a tad weightier towards the barrel end
The wood feels fine to me as I said, nice and solid. It has a smooth finish and feels fine to me when shouldered. It hasn’t cracked yet and I have no reason to think that it will under normal match conditions. When compared to Yugo stocks on a WASR-10, I’d say these are actually nicer (that isn’t saying much but still) and will probably hold up longer.
The steel feels like… steel. I don’t know what else to say. I’ve felt other so called “metal” receivers but other than forged aluminum ones, I’m yet to feel a better one than this.
One thing worthy of note, there is SOME flex in the gun. Mainly between the stock and receiver and the forward grip. The rest of the gun is rock solid but these two small points have a very, very slight give. Personally I see this as a good thing. Being a longer assault rifle, it was perfectly ridged I’d personally fear a crack if, rather when, I bang it or drop it. Having these give points I think gives it a bit more endurance to possible physical strain. To ease your worries though they seem to be CONSISTENT give points. In six months of owning this gun the give has neither increased nor decreased and having taken it apart I can see that this is just how it is. Also worthy of note in the same vain is that the VFC has the same give points albeit not as much give, but it too suffers from this same issue.
The gun sights are the standard AK type, very adjustable and are made of steel as well. The top of the receiver cover is removable and houses a fake “battery tube” which I personally remove as it tends to jiggle around in there. The cocking handle is steel as well and racks back and forth solidly and feels great after racking in a new magazine.
On the left side of the receiver there is a steel side mount for a scope which I am yet to be able to try out as I don’t have the correct scope but, having looked at various pictures of the real one being used, seems to be set up perfectly.
Disassembly is identical to any other AK and thus I won’t bother you any details other than that, with this version, it may be wise to be more careful when screwing the screws into the wooden parts as you may damage them by over tightening (can happen to plastic guns too).
Feel Grade: 8/10
Aesthetics: 9/10
Shooting
Getting it home I had a long ten hour wait for the battery to charge but once it was ready I loaded up the high cap, screwed in the battery, and took her for a spin.
First shot with no chrono just sailed forever. I have a rough “shooting range” on the side of my house that’s about 300 feet long and from practice shooting I found this will, with Elite .25’s and no hop, group well at 125 feet, and maximum man sized target at 160 feet. Hopup tweaking will extend that range to about 175 at the max but I feel that if you used heavier, possibly .28’s, you may be able to get even more out of the hopup and probably can increase the range another 10-20 feet.
FPS wise it chrono’s consistently at 350-355 FPS with .25’s (I never use .20’s) which means in “normal” terms it’s probably 375 FPS even.
It handles well and thanks to the 7mm gearbox the ROF is VERY nice. I have no way to calculate it but I’ve heard it referenced at 700-800 RPM which sounds about right. I’m yet to try this anything bigger than a 8.4v but when I compare it to a stock TM P90 it has a much higher ROF and is about on par with my CA M15A4 Carbine that I mount a 9.6v, 35 Amp discharge battery.
So far in six months I’ve had zero jams and no stoppages other than the normal dead battery lockups. Also there’ve been no signs of wear except for one thing, a slight amount of rust on the rear sling post, which got wet and forgot to dry off before returning it to it’s case. I cleaned it off a few weeks after and I’m yet to see rust return but it is something to keep in mind with this gun that Aluminum and plastic guns do not need to worry about.
A side note though, this gun has one annoying feature which is the battery placement. You need a flat head screwdriver to unscrew the two screws securing the butt plate and it’s a tight fit for an average sized large type battery.
In actual shooting with this gun it definitely feels different from a TM AK47s. It’s a bit heavier and, being a bit more barrel heavy, feels more natural to a shooter more used to real steels. No misfeeds with any magazine except the G&P (whose magazines I generally have problems with) and zero double feeding. In short, I’ve seen zero problems and nothing to show that I’ll experience any in the future.
Also worthy of note, the selector switch on this replica stays true to form of a real steel AK: first click being safe, second clack being full auto, and the bottom position being semi. Some of the cheaper replicas go Safe->Semi->Auto which, if you want a replica of a Romanian AK is fine, but if your parading in Red Square that is a detail you will not stand to see done wrong.
On the subject of magazines. The gun comes with a single high cap in the Orange Bakelite. No matter what I’ve done, short of covering the top in a layer of tape, it jiggles in the receiver. In fact EVERY AK style Magazine I’ve tried wiggles. MAG midcaps, G&P high caps, TM Highcaps, and even Echo 1 Highcaps. They all jiggle no matter what. This can be a tad unnerving during a match but in the guns defense the mag is extremely well locked in place. As with the slight gives in the gun’s frame, the magazine jiggle is a solid jiggle. It will move a bit side to side but it will never pop out unless you make a point of it.
Having a friend’s SLR-105 plastic version to compare this to, the Steel/Wood blows it out of the water. It’s actually got less give than the plastic version and is better in every way internally. Range, power, ROF all seemed to have been gunned up on this version.
As with all my guns but my primary game rifle, I won’t be upgrading this SLR unless I press it into the Top Gun position and in which case I’d really only put in a bore up piston and Tightbore, as anything else will probably push it over the 400 FPS CQB rating (pending where you play).
Those of you in the UK or other countries with heavy FPS restrictions will do well to purchase a M100 spring to bring the FPS down to acceptable values as in the stock form is well over 350 FPS with .20’s.
Shooting Grade: 9/10
Accuracy Grade: 9.5/10
Power Grade: 9/10
Use Grade: 9/10
Final Words
Of all the AK74’s I’ve encountered, none have gotten to me on every level. The VFC has looks but almost no ability, custom kits will usually have looks and some ability, but suffer in reliability in both external and internal parts, and the TM version has ability, but in my opinion suffers on looks and build. The SLR-105 has ability, looks, a reasonable price, and most important, reliability. This gun is solid inside and out which is a quality that is becoming harder and harder to come by in airsoft.
Pros:
Wood/Steel Build
Great Power
Great Range
7mm Gearbox
V3 Gearbox (always a blessing)
Great Looks
Very Solid
No need for upgrades IMO
It’s a perfect replica of an AK74 (‘nuff said :D )
Cons:
Some “wiggles” although not the kind that make the gun feel brittle
Magazines wiggle in the well no matter what
Must pay attention to possible rust damage
Battery is awkward to install
Might be too strong for some countries in stock form
Overall I give it a solid 9/10. The only thing stopping it from getting a perfect score is the magazine wiggle and the slight flexes.
I’ve always liked CA guns (I’ve owned upwards of 7 of them) and this is definitely one of their finest examples of workmanship, in both appearance and ability. If your thinking of getting an AK74 replica, and want that nice, Cold War Wood and Steel look over the synthetic black grips, so you can march with your comrades, stop here at the CA SLR-105 Wood/Steel.
*Thanks to Hot Spot for their great service, as always
Credits:
http://world.guns.ru/assault/as02-e.htm
http://www.classicarmy.com/news.jsp
------------------------------
Never argue with a gun, it may argue back...
United States Corps of Cadets, USMA
Cadet, United States Army
2012 "For More Than Ourselves"
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morugatu
Registered: February 2006
Location: Arizona
Posts: 464
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Review Date: 13/7/08
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Would you recommend the product? Yes |
Price you paid?: None indicated
| Rating: 8
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Positive aspects of the product (pros):
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Steel (no pot metal), great internals
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Cons:
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Takedown is a pain (almost impossible without a drill), battery compartment sucks (only a problem with models with folding stocks)
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*Note: I am reviewing the SLR 105 PARA which features a different battery compartment and a folding stock unlike the SLR 105 A1. It also includes a black magazine. Aside from these few differences it is the same as the SLR 105 A1.
Intro: I was sick of god damn V2 gearboxes and the usually crappy hop up unit accompanying them. I was also sick of my CA36's fiberglass body. I needed something that would LAST me. That take a major beating on not only the body, but the internals as well.
I wanted one, even if I had to sell my CA36 and M15 along with some other accessories.
So, as a suprise Christmas gift, I recieved a SLR 105 SU. It was amazing except for the fact that I wanted the full length version and not the Carbine. :D
We soon sorted that out by stricking extremely good fortune with Ron at the gearbox (local store) who kindly traded his SLR 105 Para on the shelf for my SLR 105 SU (which hadn't even been removed from the box). 
Appearance: Whoa! This sucker blew away anything I'd ever used before. Not only was it metal, it was steel. None of that monkey metal crap found in almost ALL metal airsoft replicas. The wood handguards are a very nice touch. The length was just right in my opinion. Not too long, but not too short. About the same length as a M15 with the stock fully extended.
The folding stock gives the replica bad balance with it being very front heavy, however, this doesn't really bother me much at all. It's a sort of cool feature to have, however, the full stock might have been a better choice as it would improve the balance, allow larger battery storage, and grip to your shoulder better. I hardly, if ever, even use the folding feature of the stock, so people with the full stock version wouldn't be sacrificing much except maybe a tad bit more weight.
The wood is VERY glossy stock. It almost resembles plastic. I hated it as it allowed the replica to slip out of my hands as well as just looking like crap. So, I sanded the wood down with the help of my grandpa and low and behold, the wood is actually two different shades with the top being a pinkish color and the bottom white. So, I was forced to apply another coating of something, but I hated the look of all the finishes we had, so I just coated it with I believe some stainer to give the wood that natural look.
The metal while being a nice steel, is unfortunatley painted in most parts black rather than a true carbon coated steel (which is also black). So far, it seems the paint is rather strongly bonded and makes my replica look remarkablely new even though it's seen a lot of action. There is a way to remedy this though by simply scraping off the paint as some people have done with their SLR's as seen here, http://www.airsoftcanada.com/showthread.php?t=32588&page=2
(Hop up unit access)
Internals: (Pictures coming soon)
The barrel is I believe a standard brass 6.08 diameter bore barrel. It is somewhere around 450mm long.
The hop up unit is a plastic one piece AK-style hop up unit. Most likely with a standard CA clear silicon nub, and black soft type bucking/sleeve.
The Classic Army SLR 105 features the same gearbox found in the CA8-A2 except for a different airnozzle, trigger, and selector plate.
The internals include a airnozzle with o-ring, metal cylinder w/outer only padding (which means only metal and silent/bore up piston heads are compatible), an aluminum pisotn head w/bearings, slightly undersized o-ring, standard CA piston, standard CA steel gearset, 7mm bearings, bearing spring guide with a plastic shaft, roughly M90 equivilent spring, and of course the standard CA V3 mechbox shell.
The motor is a standard CA 'high torque' V3 motor. It is important to note that unlike other CA motors, mine doesn't seem to whine as bad.
If you absolutely must see pics of the gearbox, follow this link to a review of the CA8-A2 which has the same exact gearbox.
http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=139437
Performence: The rate of fire is excellent, even on a 8.4v pack, there is no trigger lag. The velcoity is definitely up there as it is easily able to punch through both sides of a soda can which is probaly thanks to the bearings and excellent compression, however, it is certainly under 400fps. My estimate is around 350fps or so.
Here's some results of an accuracy test with .20gram High Quality Softair bbs at 25ft. with some slight wind on zero hop up in the standing unsupported position which probaly explains why full auto had better groupings than semi auto.
(Full Auto)
(Semi auto)
Field Testing: After using this for close to half a year, I have had several issues come up of which all are for the most part easy to fix.
I have experienced one jam when I first used this replica. Somehow, a shim got caught up in one of my gears and locked up the whole mechbox. No idea how it happened and haven't had this issue ever again.
The second, was I installed a slightly longer stock CA spring from an old M15. Unfortunately, I didn't notice until recently, that it was a little wide for the piston and caused several jams and I actually reshimmed the whole gearbox before I located the problem.
Another problem is the folding stock. The hingle that locks it doesn't have the strength to work well, and the slightest amount of effort would send it into the locked position. To solve that, my grandpa simply used a clamp to bend the hinge and put more force on the spring. It now works flawlessly.
The final, and biggest issue, is take down. To truly take down the replica, you need to take out two hex screws located underneath the iron sight. Unfortunately, there is no way to access these screws as CA, in their infinite wisdom, decided to put them right under a solid piece of metal. Not only does this prevent you from removing them, it also prevents you from using that space to store larger batteries making installation of batteries a bit tricky and limits you to strictly 8.4v stick batteries. To remove them, you will need to dremel away some of this metal. It shouldn't be too hard, but you need to be careful so you don't drill off something important.
To get around this though, I simply remove the two screws that hold the hop up unit and 'bend' the hop up over it's guide rails and out of the way of the gearbox. This allows me clear access to the gearbox and gives me the ability to remove it. Now this is a bit risky as too much effort could easily damage the unit, but some far I've been lucky.
Conclusion: I love this replica to death. Great buy for $325. It has a few issues like most AEGs, but once you work around them, it is a lethal weapon in the right hands. It's accuracy, rate of fire, and excellent velocity make it a force to be reckoned with on the battlefield. :twisted:
------------------------------
"We're just two lost souls
Swimming in a fish bowl
Year after year
Running over the same old ground
What have we found?
The same old fears
Wish you were here." - Pink Floyd
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Deesy
Registered: March 2009
Posts: 2
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Review Date: 15/2/10
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Would you recommend the product? Yes |
Price you paid?: £300.00
| Rating: 0
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Positive aspects of the product (pros):
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Great solid gun
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Cons:
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did not find yet
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Sorry. Not a review really. just a comments.
Quote:
The final, and biggest issue, is take down. To truly take down the replica, you need to take out two hex screws located underneath the iron sight. Unfortunately, there is no way to access these screws as CA, in their infinite wisdom, decided to put them right under a solid piece of metal. Not only does this prevent you from removing them, it also prevents you from using that space to store larger batteries making installation of batteries a bit tricky and limits you to strictly 8.4v stick batteries. To remove them, you will need to dremel away some of this metal. It shouldn't be too hard, but you need to be careful so you don't drill off something important.
to take it down, remove flash hider, remove small hex screw on muzzle and take down whole muzzle. remove metal stick, unscrew another hex screw from bottom and slide out top wood cover. now unscrew from top one more screw and you can slide out bottom wood cover and move out metal block with iron sight. now you have full access to those two screws. hope that will help.
ps: got this gun second hand last week with spare gearbox, drum magazine, twisted tight bore inner barrel, metal hopup chamber from friend of mine. replaced hopup rubber to guarder clear. will test next weekend. looks rock!
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Deesy
Registered: March 2009
Posts: 2
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Review Date: 15/2/10
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Would you recommend the product? Yes |
Price you paid?: £300.00
| Rating: 10
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Positive aspects of the product (pros):
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Great solid gun
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Cons:
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did not find yet
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Sorry. Not a review really. just a comments.
Quote:
The final, and biggest issue, is take down. To truly take down the replica, you need to take out two hex screws located underneath the iron sight. Unfortunately, there is no way to access these screws as CA, in their infinite wisdom, decided to put them right under a solid piece of metal. Not only does this prevent you from removing them, it also prevents you from using that space to store larger batteries making installation of batteries a bit tricky and limits you to strictly 8.4v stick batteries. To remove them, you will need to dremel away some of this metal. It shouldn't be too hard, but you need to be careful so you don't drill off something important.
to take it down, remove flash hider, remove small hex screw on muzzle and take down whole muzzle. remove metal stick, unscrew another hex screw from bottom and slide out top wood cover. now unscrew from top one more screw and you can slide out bottom wood cover and move out metal block with iron sight. now you have full access to those two screws. hope that will help.
ps: got this gun second hand last week with spare gearbox, drum magazine, twisted tight bore inner barrel, metal hopup chamber from friend of mine. replaced hopup rubber to guarder clear. will test next weekend. looks rock!
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Registered: July 2005
Location: West Point, New York