Weapon and Accessories: Opinions and Comments Requested - AEG G&P MRP, LiPo, Optics

[JakFrost]

I'm getting ready to order my first set of gear and I'm looking for personal opinions and comments about the choices, especially if you are aware of problems with some of the pieces or parts.

 

I would have posted each part of this long post in the individual AEG, Accessories, Scope sections but then I'd be hunting down a bunch of separate posts and I thought that a single post with all the gear in it would also help new players like myself to piece together all the parts of the kit and gear.

 

This thread is also cross-posted at ArniesAirsoft.co.uk (UK), AirsoftForum.com (US), and HoustonAirsoft.com (Texas) to gather a wide audience for feedback. I already have another thread that deals with clothing, goggles, and vest.

 

My criteria on choosing these parts is done on some research that I've done in the last week into Airsoft gear and also based on Real Steel research that I've been doing for a while and my preferences for performance versus aesthetics. Below is some of my criteria for my choices.

 

• Small and Light - Small and light weapon to aid in Airsoft distance short range engagements in wooded and semi-clear areas average 100-feet engagement distance.
• Reliable and Recommended - Reliable parts from a recommended manufacturer with good reputation for quality.
• Popular and Accessorizable - Popular design with widely available accessories.
• High Performance and Upgradable - High performance from the start and upgradable to even better performance later.
• Reasonably Expensive - Cost within reason (less than $1K USD for AEG) and with a good price-to-performance/quality ratio.

Disclaimer: The links to the manufacturer's G&P site, RedWolfAirsoft.com and eHobbyAsia.com, both from Hong Kong, are only for price reference since these online retailers have most of these parts in stock and ready for shipping when I asked them. I am not associated and have no previous dealings with them and many retailers in US and UK don't have much G&P gear. I do my research and cross-reference linking thoroughly for everything that I buy so that's the reason for source links to the retail reference sites, and not for advertising.

 

Weapon

 

G&P MRP (Short 10.5-inch barrel) (Sand) - $416 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com), $409 USD (eHobbyAsia.com) (Arnie's Airsoft Review Thread)

 

 

 

This gun is also available in Desert Tan color along with a longer 14.5-inch barrel version.

 

Battery

 

G&P 7.4v 1200mAh (20C) Li-Poly Rechargeable Battery (A) (Mini Tamiya Connector) - $18.26 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com) (Arnie's Airsoft Lithium-Polymer Battery Thread)

 

 

Connector: The W.S. Deans Co. - Ultra-Plug (Deans) connector and Micro-Deans are highly recommended as an upgrade conversion for Airsoft and R/C car/plane upgrades away from the Tamiya to improve overall electrical flow performance due to lower resistance of the Deans connector. This battery is also available with the Deans connector already pre-installed.

 

There are 11.1v 3-cell batteries available also but I am not quite sure if they would produce a rate of fire that would be too high and also too damaging on the un-upgraded gear box parts.

 

Component-Shop.co.uk has some high capacity Airsoft Li-Po 7.4v 2200mAh Cranestock batteries for reasonable L18.00 prices.

 

Charger & Balancer

 

* Lithium-Polymer batteries require a charger and a cell voltage balancer to ensure that each individual cell in the series is charged to the same voltage level as to avoid having a cell voltage differential that could potentially drop one cell below the 3v point and damage it due to the low-voltage making that cell un-rechargeable or possibly cause a run-away heat reaction.

 

There are a lot of OEM versions of the Turnigy Accucel-6, iMAX B6, Tenergy TB6 chargers out there that are all practically the same. Below are some examples.

 

Tenergy TB6 Balancing Charger with Switch Power Supply Super Combo - $73.99 (All-Battery.com)

 

 

The links to the battery charger retailers are in the United Kingdom because I found them on Arnie's Airsoft forum which is UK based and couldn't find the same products in the US retailers.

 

Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger w/ accessories - $23.99 USD (HobbyKing.com), £39.99 (Component-Shop.co.uk) (High shipping rates to US $20+)

 

 

 

 

12V 5A Power Supply - $9.99 USD (HobbyKing.com)

 

* Still requires a US 110V power cable to a 3-prong kettle plug.

 

[JakFrost]

Car Cigarette Lighter Adapter for battery charger - $1.99 USD (HobbyKing.com)

 

 

LED battery status indicator for 1S to 3S (3.7 - 11.1V) - £2.95

 

 

Lipo Battery Power Level Tester & Alarm to Indicate Low Power - $9.99 (All-Battery.com)

 

 

Cell Spy lipo voltage tester - $6.34 (All-Battery.com)

 

 

Lipo Safety Sack Small - $11.99

 

 

Accessories

 

Tokyo Marui XL BB Loader (470rds) - $19.00 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com)

 

 

G&P Grease Set - $11.00 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com)

 

 

G&P 130rds Mid Cap M16 Magazine 10pcs Package (Grey) - $96.00 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com)

 

 

G&P CQB/R Sling Adaptor with Bungee Sling (Sand) (For M4 Series) - $19.50 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com)

 

 

G&P LMT Type QD M203 Grenade Launcher (Short) - $72.00 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com)

 

[JakFrost]

Scopes

 

I have read in a few reviews that the G&P ACOG eye-box is very small so the eye-relief is short requiring you to get really close to the scope to see the full field-of-view and this can be a problem with ESS goggles. Still I think that a 4x magnification ACOG scope for distance scouting and sighting would be great for medium/long range games outdoors and the Docter RedDot on top would great for close quarters engagements. Optionally an Aimpoint M4 or the older M2 would be the alternative, maybe even with a 3x magnifier on a quick-flip mount to make it better for distance. I can't decide on which way to go so I might sell off some stuff that I have to make enough funds to pay for both types of sights then I'll pick the one that works the best and sell the other.

 

I did not choose any of the EOTech copies for my list because I've used a Real Steel version of it and did not like it at all. The reason is that since there is no tube for me to align my eye with I have a hard time finding the aiming reticle in the holographic screen. I always have to do a head bob and shake thing to see where the reticle is and that makes me change my focus from far-out in the field to close-in on the sight and I loose sight of what I am supposed to be aiming at in the first place. Not a good thing at all wasting that much time on finding your aim when you're supposed to be focused on trying to hit something already. The partial solution to this problem is to keep your iron sights on the gun and set, both or at least the front one to help you find your aim and co-witness the sights with the scope but the problem of focus only shifts slightly forward from the holographic sight's view-plane to the front sight view-plane, instead of far-out in the field that a normal tube design red-dot gives you.

 

This is also an issue for the ACOG with Docter RedDot but the ACOG has a large and thick front sight on top of the objective housing in front of the Docter giving you a slightly faster and easier way of finding your center-of-aim.

 

The Elcan SpecterDR 1x-4x is not available yet for Airsoft and I do not know if the cloners will be able to duplicate the 1-4x switching functionality in the cloned copies.

 

G&P M4 Red Dot Sight - $79.99 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com)

 

 

G&P X3 Scope Magnifier -

 

 

G&P ACOG Type 4x32 Scope - $162.00 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com), $165.00 USD (eHobbyAsia.com)

 

 

G&P OP Type Red Dot with TA01 4x32 Scope - $242.99 USD (RedWolfAirsoft.com) (Working Docter RedDot version)

 

[Dark_Harvey]

Very nice, sir! You win the new player research prize.. Mega props for coming into this with such attention and gumption.

 

Everything you've selected is solid, reliable stuff, so you shouldn't have any issues with any of those. G&P guns are fantastic inside and out, and they make excellent accessories and optics as well. High quality stuff, I've been impressed with the G&P bits I've picked up.

 

Battery - good call on the 7.4V LiPo. You're right to stick with a 7.4 for a stock gun as that's all the juice you'll need. You do need to do some work on your gearbox and wiring to get it ready for an 11.1V, but I wouldn't worry about that as the 7.4 should give you a very good trigger response and rate of fire. Deans connectors are a great idea, they're worlds better than Tamiya. Soldering is easy, and that's a very simple upgrade to do should you so desire. I'd go ahead and say scratch the voltage tester and lipo sack. LiPos aren't dangerous unless you do something really stupid, and I've been using my G&P 11.1V for a couple months with no problems. Both of those chargers look good, and either of them ought to work fine for you.

 

As for optics, I'd be inclined to recommend the Aimpoint for practicality and effectiveness. The 4x zoom of an ACOG isn't always particularly helpful in airsoft, and can sometimes be inhibitive of closer target acquisition. What you read about eye relief on replica 4x scopes is typically correct, though my 4x scope is more than usable with Arena Flakjaks, which are of nearly identical design to ESS's. I actually have a replica Elcan Specter DR, though you're right, it's fixed 4x zoom and doesn't switch to 1x. Quality wise it's lesser than what I've seen from G&P. The lenses are apparently German, so they're very nice and clear, but the assembly could be a tad better. Mine needs to be adjusted all the way left as the glass was centered somewhat off. Here's the one I got, with the price conveniently jacked thirty bucks higher than when I bought it..

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=211&products_id=11715

 

Anyway, I can't say enough how impressed I am with your research. Definitely everything you're looking at is very nice, solid gear, and should treat you very well. Best of luck, and feel free to put up any more questions you might have. Cheers, man.

[talon_0315]

Well detailed post, JakFrost. Keep it up.

 

Everything you've picked is spot on. Some of your items, such as the car charger and grease set isn't critical to get, but they will come in handy.

 

I concur with Dark_Harvey's opinion on optics; the Aimpoint will do you the most amount of good. You'll find the magnifier isn't as cracked up it is to be. Please do consider buying a killflash or making some sort of hard plastic covering to protect the Aimpoint's front element.

 

I also suggest buying a small dump pouch for your mags.

[reaper16]

I suggest PMAGS instead of the G&P mids, as they are the best mags on the market.

 

I will also suggest getting the black version and not the sand version but thats just me. I would also pick up a King arms hop up, Prometheus soft hop up bucking and a echo 1, Big out, or acm H nub. TBB would also be a good choice.

 

On a different note I own that exact lipo except mine is the deans connector version, excellent battery!

[Tacitus]

Monitoring of your LiPo IS a good idea, as it's easy to accidentally overdischarge and reduce mAh rating or simply ruin a LiPo, espescially with lower capacity batteries. But forget those items you linked to, just get a board from Wolfdragon. I've heard nothing but good things about them, and I'm buying one soon myself. http://www.projectwo...ts/Products.htm

 

For more info on that and all other aspects of airsoft tech, head over to the Airsoft Mechanics forums.

 

EDIT: Also don't skimp on a charger. Definitely get a balancing charger, with good reviews from end users. I use the Bantam BC-6 but I'm sure there are other decent ones out there. Just make sure you buy a tried and tested model - you don't want a LiPo fire burning your house down.

 

Ugh just noticed, where's the MOSFET on your shopping list?! You need one if you want the best performance and longevity from your gun, espescially if you're using a LiPo. Get one from Extreme-Fire. They're all great products. I have the basic SW-AB and 20A polyfuse , very happy with both of them.

 

While you're installing Deans, replace the wire with 16 AWG, if the gun doesn't have it already. Less resistance = higher ROF and longer battery life.

 

Probably too obvious to mention, but I will anyway: Only put high quality BBs through it. A jam can result in a series of breakages of parts inside the gearbox. It's never worth risking $1K of gun for a $10 bag of BBs. I've heard G&P gears aren't the strongest so be extra careful if you do get a jam (ie stop firing).

[reaper16]

Lipo's arent needed on a 7.4 volt lipo...they are just like using a 9.6v battery. I mean sure mosfets will help with the longevity of a gun with any battery, but saying especially if your using a lipo is a myth unless your running an 11.1 which is just superfluos imo. A mosfet will help but isnt needed right off.

 

Also you mentioned the G&P gears not being the strongest..okay, then why would you reccomend increasing ROF which just puts more strain on the internals, moderation is good in all things. You don't need a 11.v super ROF bb hose, run it at 400FPS or less (385 is a good number), make sure the gears are properly shimmed (or switch to modify shimless gears) properly lubed, and look up the angle of alignment mod.

[ctres94]

there are tons of things you can do for cheap or free that will help with the longterm durability of your gun. that lipo looks good to me, but you should get the deans one, because most G&P guns come with deans stock. actually, maybe the mrp dosen't, check the review section. one thing to remember though, I have heard that the deans style connectors on G&P products are not real ws deans products, and that the have a much higher resistance, I would reccomend to buy some real ws deans ultra connectors for guaranteed performance. I could go on an on, depending on how much you wanted to do. if you want good realiability, and are ready for opening up a gearbox, check out aznripiptide's "how to make a gearbox lipo ready" thread in the technical section. I think that a pantac sling would be better quality than a G&P sling, as pantac is made with 1000D cordura, and I am not sure about G&P tactical gear, but pantac is definitely high quality, just check out some of the reviews.

 

another thought, with the sopmod stock, you may want to look for a multi piece lipo battery, so you can make use of the side compartments, and have a longer lasting battery.

 

as for optics, I would say to go with something non magnified, probably an aimpoint, most engagements happen around 100 feet in airsoft, and magnification is just a pain.

 

the greases you listed should be fine, but some higher performance ones could probably be found if you checked out the "lipo ready" thread I mentioned above.

 

finally, the mags, I was actually wondering myself about those mags, they seem like a good deal, and G&P is known to be pretty good, so I'd like to know about them as well. however, for guaranteed performance, the magpul pts 120 round mags (NOT the boxed sets of ten 75rd mags) are really good, and feed perfect in just about anything.

[reaper16]

IF you decide on Pmags which I HOPE you do since they are the best on the market, make sure to get the M-version Pmags or Emags as they are the new editions and don't have the fitting problems that the original PMAGs had.

[JakFrost]

Thanks for the kind words on my research. This is my usual standard operating procedure when trying to decide on an expensive product purchase for a new hobby. If you enjoyed this Airsoft thread, look at the two other threads below when I was researching my Real Steel .22 LR pistol and rifle optics. I ended up with some great but very unique products like the Pardini SP1 pistol and a custom Volquartsen 10/22 rifle with Sightron 6-24x40 optics.

 

TargetTalk.org - Pardini SP .22 LR - Recommendations and Experiances Wanted

RimfireCentral.com - What HQ Scopes for custom Volquartsen .22 LR rimfire rifle? (Optics Experts Req!)

Scopes

 

I've gotten other recommendations against the ACOG and at this point I'm leaning towards an Aimpoint M4 1x replica as a default choice or possibly the Elcan SpecterDR 4x replica that you listed because I'm hoping that it has more eye-relief and a larger eye-box than the ACOG. Eye-relief is important to me and that's one reason why I decided against a real steel Leupold scope and went with Sightron, and considered Bushness 4200.

 

I played a game last weekend and we were in the shadow of our treeline looking across a sunny clearing into the other shadowed treeline and I could not pick out the enemy squad of 3-guys that was just camping out the treeline pinning me and another teammate down. They knew of our general positions and kept us down and we couldn't pin point their positions. At that point I was wishing for a spotter/scout scope on my weapon so that I could scan the treeline to pick out the other team positions. This one real life instance is making me seriously consider magnified optics, at least 4x. I shoot both-eyes open and I can consciously switch my eye domination from right to left as required after some previous training from real life experience so I can easily superimpose a 4x magnified reticle/reddot on a close up target.

 

Magpul PMAGS vs G&P M16

 

I have a link to the Magpul PMAGs PTS 120rd $22.95 but I didn't include it in the original list above because I am not entirely convinced what advantage a PMAG would have against the standard M16 magazine considering practically double the cost at M16 10 = $96 versus PMAG 10 = $229.50. Magpul products seem to be the hot thing right now in real steel and airsoft circles so there is a lot of popular inertia for their stuff but I don't have any experience with them so I cannot recommend any until I see and use them. The G&P M16 mags seem quite good enough to me and since I'm not interested in aesthetics or trades for my gun I don't see a need for PMAGs unless someone explains to me what the real benefit to them is that would justify their 2x cost. Is it weight, durability, quality of construction, ease of removal from pouches, what is so much superior than standard M16 mags? In real steel circles the last thing that was hot were the green non-tilting followers and previous to that were the ranger plates for finger hooks.

 

As for the PMAGs, I really need convincing that they are worth double the price of the G&P mags. Make me believe.

 

Upgrades to Internals

 

Thanks for the the suggestions for the Prommy bucking and a H-nub since other folks have mentioned those also to me as quick and easy upgrade. Right now I'm focusing on getting the starting gear and I plan to run it stock as recommended in the very beginning until I know enough about what to modify and change. If I mod the gun off the get-go I might mess something up in the upgrade and not even know it.

 

MOSFET with Active Breaking and Low-Voltage Protection

 

I've come across the MOSFET with Active Breaking upgrade threads and low-voltage circuit cut-off board recommendations but I didn't include these parts in this list since they are a bit advanced for a first-time purchase. I will definitely keep your recommendations in mind in the upcoming weeks after I get my gear and run it stock to get a feel for it. It is very likely that I'll end up implementing these modifications to improve my gun, including resoddering the gun with silicon-sheated higher gauge wiring for lower resistance and changing out any cramped on Tamiya connectors that might exist internally to lower resistance real W.S. Deans gold plated ones. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Extreme-Fire.com - MOSFET switches for Airsoft automatic electric guns (AEGs) with both standard and active braking

ProjectWolfDragon.com - Over-Discharge Protection Circuit Boards for Lithium Polymer (LiPO) Battery Packs

 

I understand that the Deans connector is recommended for the battery but I just feel a little torn by the fact that G&P ships their gun with mini-Tamyia's from the factory, making the switch necessary. I understand from their position of trying to make it easy on newbies who just want to run and gun though. They sell their batteries with 3-connector types and that at least is good. Other places will put on Deans connectors also if you request them during the order process.

 

Looking at the G&P website they sell replica W.S. Deans connectors but their ones are black polymer with silver leads, not like the real ones that are red polymer with gold leads.

 

BB Quality

 

I've been told to only shoot high quality BBs to avoid pellet splitting and also avoid certain brands of BioDegradable ones that might leave residue in the internal barrel. Since I'm on the inner-barrel topic I'm planning on cleaning it out then giving it a light polish internally with Flitz metal polish to smooth out any manufacturing burs and also applying a thin coat of high quality wax if necessary. I'll bore-scope the inner barrel also looking for any issues.

 

Other

 

The sling was just a quick link to the G&P one but there are dozens of different slings on the market and most of them seem similar enough at first glance. I'll do some research into slings when I get a chance.

 

I linked to a LiPo 7.4v 2200 mAh Cranestock battery in the original post and I am considering it, but it's only a 2 section one. The G&P MRP stock it appears to be a dual-sided cranestock I could really go for a 3-section battery with a 3000 mAh rating for some real long time longevity but I haven't found one yet that isn't 11.1v. There's probably one out there somewhere for me to find, I just have to look harder.

 

I just listed the G&P grease set as a reminder to get something. White lithium grease might be better for longevity but since the airsoft stuff doesn't get exposed to very harsh environments the lubes are probably good enough. I'll look around for alternative lubes also.

[sigma3]

You're sure the MRP has Tamiyas? My G&P Sentry shipped with Deans.

 

As for the PMAGs... I have a few of those, and just the one G&P midcap that shipped with the gun, and I don't know about "twice as good," but I'd certainly say they're a big step up. Much easier to handle, better feeding with fewer wasted rounds, and just the overall feeling of better quality in the build. Keep in mind you probably won't actually use 10 mags... depends on the kind of player/games you're at. I get by just fine with 4 mags almost all of the time – I have that same TM speedloader and it complements them nicely (essentially giving me 7-8 mags worth of ammo when I'm carrying it). If you're doing weekend-long ops you might want more.

[Andrew March]

All G&P guns are made to order for the store that is selling them, so if they asked for tamiya connectors that's what you'll get.

[Tacitus]

Lipo's arent needed on a 7.4 volt lipo...they are just like using a 9.6v battery. I mean sure mosfets will help with the longevity of a gun with any battery, but saying especially if your using a lipo is a myth unless your running an 11.1 which is just superfluos imo. A mosfet will help but isnt needed right off.

I assume you meant to say MOSFETs aren't needed. I agree they're not an essential part of a gun, but the OP has expressly stated he wants high performance and reliability. A MOSFET will increase ROF and battery life due to the lower resistance, and increase the longevity of the trigger contancts indefinitely due to the minimal switching current a MOSFET will put through them.

 

A 7.4 LiPo is NOT like a 9.6v NiMH or NiCad (which is what I assume you meant to say). To learn about LiPo's I highly recommend this series of articles by Infected. But in short, LiPos provide a higher dischage rate than traditional batteries of the same physical size. Most small NiMHs and NiCads have an unsifficient discharge rate, meaning the motor cannot work at 100%. LiPos allow the motor to draw as much current as it needs, which is why it seems like you get a performance increase when compared to a NiMH or NiCad of the same size. As for 11.1v LiPos; if a gun is able to run a 7.4v LiPo, it will be able to run an 11.1v LiPo. Increased ROF means parts will wear out sooner, purely because the gun will probably shoot more BBs within a given period of time. But if you measure it by the number of BBs shot, there shouldn't be a difference in wear.

 

Also you mentioned the G&P gears not being the strongest..okay, then why would you reccomend increasing ROF which just puts more strain on the internals, moderation is good in all things.

I mentioned G&P gears not being the strongest under the resistance caused by a BB jam, which can strip gears. Therefore I would recommend taking precautions to lower the chance of a jam, and to absolutely stop firing the gun if a jam is suspected of occuring. ROF only speeds up normal wear (as described above). If I thought G&P gears wouldn't last with a higher ROF, I would certainly recommend replacing them. However this is not the case.

 

You don't need a 11.v super ROF bb hose, run it at 400FPS or less (385 is a good number), make sure the gears are properly shimmed (or switch to modify shimless gears) properly lubed, and look up the angle of alignment mod.

I didn't suggested creating a BB hose. Your other suggestions are all good ones

 

Upgrades to Internals

Thanks for the the suggestions for the Prommy bucking and a H-nub since other folks have mentioned those also to me as quick and easy upgrade. Right now I'm focusing on getting the starting gear and I plan to run it stock as recommended in the very beginning until I know enough about what to modify and change. If I mod the gun off the get-go I might mess something up in the upgrade and not even know it.

I definitely agree with this approach for the internals for a new AEG owner. Although I would personally feel uncomfortable running a stock gun without a re-shim and lube, it does require complete mechbox dissasembly and fiddly work.

 

MOSFET with Active Breaking and Low-Voltage Protection

 

I've come across the MOSFET with Active Breaking upgrade threads and low-voltage circuit cut-off board recommendations but I didn't include these parts in this list since they are a bit advanced for a first-time purchase. I will definitely keep your recommendations in mind in the upcoming weeks after I get my gear and run it stock to get a feel for it. It is very likely that I'll end up implementing these modifications to improve my gun, including resoddering the gun with silicon-sheated higher gauge wiring for lower resistance and changing out any cramped on Tamiya connectors that might exist internally to lower resistance real W.S. Deans gold plated ones. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Extreme-Fire.com - MOSFET switches for Airsoft automatic electric guns (AEGs) with both standard and active braking

ProjectWolfDragon.com - Over-Discharge Protection Circuit Boards for Lithium Polymer (LiPO) Battery Packs

 

I understand that the Deans connector is recommended for the battery but I just feel a little torn by the fact that G&P ships their gun with mini-Tamyia's from the factory, making the switch necessary. I understand from their position of trying to make it easy on newbies who just want to run and gun though. They sell their batteries with 3-connector types and that at least is good. Other places will put on Deans connectors also if you request them during the order process.

 

Looking at the G&P website they sell replica W.S. Deans connectors but their ones are black polymer with silver leads, not like the real ones that are red polymer with gold leads.

Sounds good to me. I'd prioritise a MOSFET to minimise the inevitable wear on the trigger contacts. The products you linked to are excellent. I'd also highly recommend a polyfuse from extreme-fire to maximum safety and performance.

 

BB Quality

 

I've been told to only shoot high quality BBs to avoid pellet splitting and also avoid certain brands of BioDegradable ones that might leave residue in the internal barrel. Since I'm on the inner-barrel topic I'm planning on cleaning it out then giving it a light polish internally with Flitz metal polish to smooth out any manufacturing burs and also applying a thin coat of high quality wax if necessary. I'll bore-scope the inner barrel also looking for any issues.

I've not heard of this approach to barrel maintenance, I'd love to know more about it.

 

Other

 

I linked to a LiPo 7.4v 2200 mAh Cranestock battery in the original post and I am considering it, but it's only a 2 section one. The G&P MRP stock it appears to be a dual-sided cranestock I could really go for a 3-section battery with a 3000 mAh rating for some real long time longevity but I haven't found one yet that isn't 11.1v. There's probably one out there somewhere for me to find, I just have to look harder.

 

I just listed the G&P grease set as a reminder to get something. White lithium grease might be better for longevity but since the airsoft stuff doesn't get exposed to very harsh environments the lubes are probably good enough. I'll look around for alternative lubes also.

Try to get a battery with the highest C rating you can find. This directly affects discharge rate so it's crucial, espescially with smaller batteries.

 

I'd avoid white lithium grease as it cakes after a while. Teflon grease is good, but have a search and you'll see there are loads of options.

[JakFrost]

Thanks for the addition info about the resettable polyfuse, sounds like a better idea than the regular fuse type.

 

Extreme-fire.com - Resettable Fuse - $10.00 USD

 

I'll definitely take the whole gearbox apart just to see the insides of it and check for any manufacturing defects. I've done the exact same thing with all my Real Steel guns, including the S&W 686 revolver just to see how everything fits and works inside and I've polished up and upgraded all my shooters.

 

I will definitely be looking at implementing the upgrades after a game or two with the stock gun just so that I have a frame or reference as to what it is like straight out of the factory. I'm sure that I'll get the post-game upgrade itch and end-up installing all these mods by the following game once I get my fill with the stock. I did the same thing before, hitting up retailers for spring and parts kits. My RS guns run like champs now.

[league 4]

Going to be honest, I didn't read the whole tread. But IMO you should just get the extreme-fire Evolution for a MOSFET, and change the G&P gears out of the box. G&P gears are notorious for the axles breaking off, happened to every set I've had pretty quickly, and one set broke from just opening the gearbox.

[JakFrost]

Going to be honest, I didn't read the whole tread. But IMO you should just get the extreme-fire Evolution for a MOSFET, and change the G&P gears out of the box. G&P gears are notorious for the axles breaking off, happened to every set I've had pretty quickly, and one set broke from just opening the gearbox.

 

What gear set do you recommended for the G&P v2 gearbox then? Any other parts to purchase, such as gear shims? What about the tappet in the G&P box, should I replace it with a stronger one?

 

I'm going to have to devote some time to reading about gear box mechanics so that I can prepare and order the parts for upgrade to stronger internal components. All recommendations are welcome.

[JakFrost]

KSC Perfect BB 0.25 (3000) - $8.50 USD

 

Magpul PTS PMAG M-Version (Mid Cap 120 Rds) - Black - $22.95 USD

 

GT POWER A6 Balance Charger for NiCd/NiMH & Lithium Battery (US Plug) - $62.00 USD

 

Tokyo Marui Portable Pro Target System - $20.99 USD

 

Xcortech X3200 Shooting Chronograph - $73.99 USD

 

Airsoft Innovations Tornado Crash Impact Grenade (Red) - $99.95 USD

 

EAC LAPD SWAT CUSTOM II (MEU) Full Metal GBB - $380.00 USD

 

Tokyo Marui 28rd Magazine for M.E.U. / Desert Warrior 4.3 GBB - $28.99 USD

[JakFrost]

I added a few additional things that I am planning on ordering at the same time. This will be a very big order, over $1.3K with ~$180 shipping to US. I've been slowly saving money every since the beginning of the year as I learned about Airsoft and instead of buying a real steel Para TTR with optics and accessories for $3K that I was planning I can spend half as much for a more interactive sport. The real steel expense will come next year after I ramp up in the shooting related sports again.

 

Pistol

 

The most interesting is the pistol based off the Tokyo Marui one but with a PGC full metal mod already applied on it. I just couldn't deal with a ABS plastic 1911, it just seems wrong especially when I adore my Real Steel Les Baer custom.

 

The criteria I had for the pistol were below and this one met all of them. I looked at the more expensive Western Arms but they were just to expensive.

 

I would have preferred the Hi-Vis sights but they were not available in that model. I might have to do my own replacement later.

 

• Model - Colt 1911
• Length - Standard 5.1-inches
• Frame - Standard, no-rail frame for easy holster compatibility.
• Color - Black, definitely no shiny silver gun for actual usage.
• Quality - High quality construction, full milled metal preferable.
• Adjustment - Hop-up included for adjustment.
• Sights - Low profile Novak or Tactical type sights, no class government sights, no movable target sights.

 

Retailer

 

Most of the stuff that I want, except for the scope is available from eHobbyAsia.com and they have good understanding and money-back terms for dealing with US Customs so I will probably order from them instead of RedWolfAirsoft.com.

 

I am also going to go out on a limb and try the Elcan SpecterDR 4x replica and hope that it doesn't turn out to be a POS, otherwise I'll just get an Aimpoint M4 1x replica and cry instead.

 

PS: Sorry for the huge images, I couldn't find smaller images for some of these products.

[league 4]

What gear set do you recommended for the G&P v2 gearbox then? Any other parts to purchase, such as gear shims? What about the tappet in the G&P box, should I replace it with a stronger one?

 

I'm going to have to devote some time to reading about gear box mechanics so that I can prepare and order the parts for upgrade to stronger internal components. All recommendations are welcome.

 

 

Depending on your budget, I'd get RiotSC gears or SHS gears. RiotSC's are some of the most expensive, but there hasn't been a single case of a broken set. They're made out of chrome molybdenum, I use them and they're great. SHS gears are good if you're on a budget, and come in lots of different ratios. RiotSC gears are available on airsoftmechanics.com and SHS gears are for sale on ehobbyasia and other places. Shims shouldn't be a problem, just use the ones that come in the gun stock, and G&P tappet plates are fine.

[JakFrost]

Depending on your budget, I'd get RiotSC gears or SHS gears. RiotSC's are some of the most expensive, but there hasn't been a single case of a broken set. They're made out of chrome molybdenum, I use them and they're great. SHS gears are good if you're on a budget, and come in lots of different ratios. RiotSC gears are available on airsoftmechanics.com and SHS gears are for sale on ehobbyasia and other places. Shims shouldn't be a problem, just use the ones that come in the gun stock, and G&P tappet plates are fine.

 

I read a bit about RiotSC gears and they sound interesting but they are quite pricey at $120 for V2 (Gen 2) gear set.

AcmeAirsoft.com - Hardest/Fastest Gears on the Market?

AirsoftMechanics.com - CNC Machined Gear Sets

The SHS gear sets are dirt cheap at $18.99 USD though at eHobbyAsia.com. I'm guessing that they are mass manufactured in Asia so the cost is so much lower.

 

I'd definitely consider the SHS gear set at the get-go I just have to learn enough about gear ratios to figure out what I should get for the G&P MRP V2 Gearbox that has the G&P M120 motor without having to think about buying a new motor and doing a whole gearbox upgrade. I'm guessing that high torque gears increase FPS and high speed increase ROF. I'll really have to figure out what I want once I get the gun and try it out and put it through the chronograph to test FPS so they stay within TASO (Texas Airsoft Organization) guidelines.

 

What about the piston and the piston teeth on the G&P MRP V2 gearbox model, should I consider upgrading them also at the get go?

 

Of course the next issue is going to be upgrading to 11.1v LiPo for better trigger response and what is that going to entail.

 

PS: This thread is getting a little off-topic about starting gear for me and I should be doing my own research into upgrading the gun but since this topic came up I'll just roll with it.

[Gigueand]

This is a great thread. Kudos to you for doing the research prior to posting. It is nice to see your evolving thought process on equipment.

 

That said, I recommend purchasing your rifle and equipment and playing a season or so (or until something breaks) before upgrading. New gears, mosfet, etc might be a good idea, but are definitely not a "must" for someone just buying their first pieces of kit. Why not play a bit with the gun stock and then once you know how the gun performs come back and do some upgrades?

 

Your chosen rifle is listed as firing 330 fps or so. Why not take a pass on a pistol and pick up some extra batteries or magazines? I love owning a pistol, and I pull it out frequently when using my 400+ fps rifles. When I use my 330 fps carbine, however, my 1911 rarely leaves its holster. The only time it comes out is when I've run myself out of ammo for my primary... which could have been prevented by sinking the money for the pistol into more magazines... Think about all the other fun things you could get in place of a $380 pistol.

 

I also notice that you have a grenade launcher on your list of items. Like the pistol, I'd recommend giving this item a pass. Playing out-of-doors, 'nade launchers are fairly ineffective. They are cool eye candy, but they weigh a lot and don't get used nearly enough.

 

There are a lot of different schools of thought on slings out there. A lot of ink has been spilled discussing single-point versus two-point, etc. Single points provide retention allowing the user to transition to a hand-gun and preventing the user from being separated from their rifle in a crash, fall, etc. Single points are also nice in that they do not inhibit firing the rifle from either shoulder. However, they don't actually allow the user to "sling" their weapon and have it held to their body comfortably and hands-free. For example, if you drop your rifle to transition to a hand-gun the rifle will not hit the ground, but will be swinging around your legs. I prefer an adjustable two point like the VTAC or VCAS. These slings can be tightened up to bring the rifle tight to the body so when I'm walking back to a staging area or standing around before a game my rifle is secured to me and I can be comfortably hands-free. Although everyone groans when Magpul is mentioned, the MS-2 sling is a pretty good compromise between 1- and 2- point slings.

 

I'm sure others will weigh in with their sling opinions soon...

 

 

Keep up the good work!

[Slayer750]

I am also going to go out on a limb and try the Elcan SpecterDR 4x replica and hope that it doesn't turn out to be a POS, otherwise I'll just get an Aimpoint M4 1x replica and cry instead.

 

The company who made that SpecterDR are currently making another that will be 1x and 4x magnification. It is supposed to be higher quality, and more accurate to the real steel version. It will come in tan and possibly black as well.

[sigma3]

For slings, I think the best of the bunch are the Emdom Gunslinger (very similar to the MS2, but much more comfortable to wear for periods of time) and the PIG Drop-Slider (one-point). Given the nature of the PIG's design, though, you could fairly easily mod it into a convertible single/2-point. Both are top quality.

 

As for all the rest of this, you've picked out a lot of good stuff and done your research, but I have to ask: have you played this game before? I don't know if I'd go dropping $1500 on stuff if I'm not sure the game's even my thing yet.

[JakFrost]

Upgrades

 

I'm a tinkerer so knowing myself my gun will only stay stock for a game or two before I find things to upgrade and improve in it. I've done the same thing with my real guns and I couldn't be happier with their improvements. I'm already going to be ordering the upgraded SHS steel gears, hop-up bucking and nob, and already going with 7.4v LiPo getting ready for 11.1v and putting on the full MOSFET computer on the gun.

 

Pistol

 

The pistol is solely for close combat and in-door usage when breaching forts or rooms since the rules here require pistols only indoors or when breaching small forts. Since I pretty much have to get a pistol to be effective at close range I might as well invest money in the near-best one that I can buy and afford and the full metal conversion on the TM one just sounds exactly what I would end up with as end-game gear. I don't plan on buying any more gear or become an Airsoft gun collector with a gun de-jure every month, I just want one good primary and pistol, and then a backup gun later. It's better to invest in the few great weapons that I'll have than to end up buying a lot of unsatisfactory gear.

 

Grenade Launcher

 

The LM M203 Grenade Launcher and Tornado Grenade are just things that I'd probably end up with anyway since they might be required for limited usage Military type operations that I'll eventually get involved with. I'd rather have them then quick-mount them when I need them than to not have them and be unable to participate in the "fun" squad missions. I'm not planning on carrying these things in every weekend skirmishes, but I'd like to know that they are there when I need them. Oh and the underbarrel grenade launcher will be used for Nerf Football launches to attack and breach fortified positions and not BB sprays like the original 40mm shell design.

 

Slings

 

I really have no idea about a sling and frankly I just added the default G&P 1-point sling to the list of parts because it was just there listed as an accessory. I have no idea if I'd prefer 2-point better since I haven't worn either yet. The gun has mounts for a 2-point sling and for now I'll just go with a 1-point until I find a problem with it. I'm a pretty big fellow so I don't mind having the short M4 gun dangling on the side while I walk. I am going to check out the PIG and other recommended slings to see what is really good and what is bad. I'm doing a lot of research and sometimes the small things fall on the wayside and I go with trusted brand names instead.

 

Elcan SpecterDR Sight

 

I'll go with the regular 4x for now and if that one is released in the future I can always sell it off and upgrade. Will be waiting for V-Tech SpecterDR 1-4x.

 

Cost & Quality

 

Well, the issue of cost has come up, my wife mentioned it and I am actively thinking about it. I played the game once and liked it a lot since it got me out of the house on the weekend. I know a few folks here in Houston Texas that play it and would like to expand the membership in this area. I think that these costs compared to another hobby are not astronomical and for the quality of gear that I'll be starting with I can justify the costs knowing that my enjoyment of the game will be better because my gear will perform better.

 

It's too easy to be "penny wise and pound foolish" only to end up hating the game because of crappy gear and constant problems. I'd like to avoid that situation and repeat my satisfaction with Airsoft the same way that I did when I invested in top quality real steel guns.